2a+RoN

oh also, saxyman990, you seem to be very knowledgeable about quality coatings, what do you have to say about the Tech Line black satin coating? I've done a few things with it and they seem to be holding up pretty well.

saxyman990

LOL! No, I forgot to ask him about that. Maybe next time I'm on the phone with him...


Thanks. I guess I'm just tired of people spouting worthless dribble in an weak effort to improve their "internet coolness status," or even worse, to improve their product sales. There are a great deal of very knowledgeable people on this forum. If you spew BS on the RX-7Club, you'll probably get called out on it eventually. Remember the hype behind the anti-detonation device? All this talk of super-dooper NASA coatings reminds me of that whole drama. But I digress...


Hmmm.... 1Revvin7 hasn't responded yet. He's logged on a few times since I posted, but he hasn't chimed back in here. I'm actually kind of suprized. I'm interested to hear his rebuttal.

saxyman990

I honestly don't have any first-hand knowledge of Tech Line coatings, although I have a few friends that are using them on their V8 headers (and like you, they seem to be holding up fine). What I will say is that do-it-yourself coatings can be great if you take the time to do them properly, or they can fail miserably if you don't use the utmost care. Any professional coating shop will take the time to properly prep the material (as 1Revvin7 correctly pointed out). This usually involves a thermal degreaser or various chemical solutions (something the average DIYer doesn't usually have access to). Take what you will from that.

As an FYI, I had a professional coating company do all of my parts, and I'm extremely happy with the results.

-Rob

GregW

Ya know whats real funny. Ive posted a link to this discussion two times on Nopistions. 1Revin is a mod over there.

Well my post got deleted twice.


Pretty shady ****!


Off to post a third time

GregW

signofinfinity

hmmm interesting....

I just sent my LIM UIM Chain Cover... all the cast alumium to be powder coated black....

Any suggestions?


Thank

George

saxyman990

Greg, looks like he deleted your post again (along with a few replies from people who quoted your post)

-Rob

saxyman990

Many people powder their UIM and front cover, and it usually ends up looking great. So if thats what you want to do, then stick with it. Just as a forewarning though: the LIM sees a lot of radiant heat from the turbos. If it's not a good quality high-temp powder, it has a potential to flake-off or otherwise fail. There are mixed reviews on the durability of powder on the LIM (some say it fails, and some say it holds up just fine), so I invite you to search through the forums to see what others have experienced. Good luck!

-Rob

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Would it be possible to hve the parts ceramic coated on the inside and outside, just like 1revin7 was advertising his product. IMHO, that comment does makes sense; but what do I know about it

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I think I will be watching this thread for a while..

jimmyv13

Hmmm, revvin hasn't posted in a while, that makes us doubt his credibility.

Anyway, I sent my exhaust manifold to a local shop to be ceramic coated inside and out. They have done rotary components before and are aware of the extreme heat produced by them. Of course, they did not disclose their exact procedure, but they did say that the manifold had to be prepped extensively then their coating is sprayed on and through the manifold. This method is preferred, they say, to dipping for complete coverage inside and out.

Any comments???

YayeR

sounds good jimmah

Fred Villamor

:

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Same thing happened on the FC3S forum thread, go figure

Anyways, where did you sent yours, I will do the same to the manifold, DP, and intake manifold!

Mills

iTrader: (1)

Did they say why?

kenn_chan

Anybody know if any of these places ship via USPS? no fedex or UPS where I am at its USPS or bust.

BTW saxyman990 this thread and your "research" just caused me to spill my morning coffee ROTFLMAO.

kenn

GregW

Just an assumption here...thinkin its due to contamination.

FSTFBDY

I know my 1st post shouldn't be in this one but I lurk here from time to time because I'm prob picking up a 87 FC. Ive been searching about the coolant seals going bad and ran across this post somehow.

It sparked my interest because I own CE COATINGS and Do Ceramic,Thermal and Powder Coatings. Along with being a Aviation Tech. I'm not here to sell my product etc. Matter of fact Who knows if I'll post anymore until I do pick up that 87 my buddy wants to sell.

I just wanted to totally agree with EVERYTHING saxyman990 had to say. I loved your "NICE WAY" of calling BS 1st.

Also anyone who wants to do the DIY coating PREP is your #1 priority. Some need baked,some don't. OUT GAS EVERYTHING that does need baked.

Tech Line makes great products thats who I use. Some you need to be a business to buy some you done. If anyone needs help,tips ,tricks,info etc feel free to e-mail me. I don't hide anything to say well I cant give you all my secrets like some companies do. There are TONS of people out there who can do coatings so why hide any info.

anyways I can't wait to get my hands on this rx7 here local and rebuild the thing. AWESOME SITE btw..

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

Pretty good first post Noob.

There is a guy on here trying to do powdercoating for people that doesn't even know what degassing or outgassing is. I tried nicely explaining the procedure to him but instead of learning, he continued to pump out junk, half-coated parts. In the end sometimes you just have to be blunt with people for them to get the hint.



There are some people that really know their **** on these boards though, no matter what aspect of automotbile tech happens to be being discussed, so BS is eventually flagged. Great for consumers, bad for dishonest sellers!



I think the supplier of this misrepresented coating could still aquire business if he came back with the correct data (the factual figures look plenty good) and an apology.

FSTFBDY

I totally agree with everything you just said. I still learn new stuff all the time and Ive been coating for 6 years. Always find better products and different ways to do stuff....

I hate seeing JUNK work out there. because it make noobs to the field of coatings think its all junk.

ROTARYFDTT

iTrader: (4)

DId you send it out to QC Coatings? I was planning on dropping off my manifold there sometime within the next week.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

saxyman990 Anyway to find out what the prices would be for the coatings without the middle man?

Kevin T. Wyum

Who mentioned coating the inside of the rotor housings? Maybe my memory is failing me in my old age but I seem to recall the "chrome" surface having micro pores/channels for oil to assist in lubrication of the seals. Maybe Saxy knows this but can you think of any application that uses a coating like these (the ceramic coatings being discussed) on a frictional surface? Maybe you can machine this stuff smooth enough for other internal parts not needing the lubrication.

Kevin T. Wyum

pistonsuk

What is "outgassing"?

It seems that everyone agrees that 99% of a quality coating is prep.

Could someone explain what the proper "prep" would be for using a baked coating?

Justin

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

1Revvin7 originally mentioned he coated "the entire combustion chamber", and then it was me asking if he coated the chrome parts of the rotor and side housings.

There has been talk before about getting seals coated to help with friction as well as wear. I just wasn't brave enough to try it with my rebuild. Maybe if this rebuild doesn't work I'll give it a shot.

saxyman990

Sometimes, during the casting process, little packets of air can become embedded within the metal. Typically, the foundry will try to reduce the air formation, but it's cost-prohibitive to completely eliminate it. Therefore, almost all cast parts have a certain amount of air trapped inside (it is usually more prevalant in aluminum parts than iron). When the part is heated, the air packets that are close to the surface can actually be released from the part. This is called out-gassing.

Unfortunately, ceramic and powder coatings usually require a baking period in order to cure. If the part outgasses during the curing phase, it can cause pinhole flaws in the part. This is bad for aesthetics and for durability. So coating suppliers to go to great lengths to ensure outgassing doesn't happen during the coating process. There are several ways to do this.

Typically, the main way to prevent ougassing during curing is baking the part prior to doing any of the coating (usually done at 5-600degrees). This will cause the part to get rid of all it's trapped gasses prior to the coating. There are also other methods of curing the coating that will help to eliminate outgassing. Some companies use infrared or ultraviolet curing rather than the traditional convection.


Proper "prep" of the part includes outgassing any trapped air prior to coating (done by the methods I mentioned above), Cleaning the part thoroughly (typically done by thermal or chemical degreasing), and then usually some type of media blasting or sanding to ensure the part is clean/smooth and ready for the powder or ceramic to be applied. At this point the part can be sprayed/coated, and then baked until the coating has cured. Different coating companies will prep the part in different ways, but these are the typical methods used.

-Rob