cast elbow or silicone hose?
I'm wondering if there is any consensus, or pros and cons of using a silicone elbow on the compressor housing outlet vs welding on a cast aluminum elbow.
Seems like the weld on elbow could save a little space. |
The cast elbow does use less space and will never blow out or wear out.
I use one on my GT35R. |
Cast elbows remove the likely hood of flexing and bursting. It's best to just rely on straight couplers as pressure never compromises their integrity unlike pressure with silicone elbows. You're more likely to have a coupler slip off before it busts but if you have the extra time, it's time well spent.
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
(Post 11524258)
cast elbows remove the likely hood of flexing and bursting. It's best to just rely on straight couplers as pressure never compromises their integrity unlike pressure with silicone elbows. You're more likely to have a coupler slip off before it busts but if you have the extra time, it's time well spent.
Find a good aluminum welder and have one welded on. Attachment 666313 Attachment 666314 |
From a reliability perspective yeah you want as few joints as possible. You want straight couplers only. You want the ends of the pipes to have a lip on them, and you want the pipes to sit in the engine bay such that they are aligned and have only a small gap between them.
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I've been kicking this around in my mind but not being experienced with this whole turbo thing I was afraid there might be some reason not to.
As far as the welding, I can do that. And you guys have given good enough cause to do so. :bigthumb: Thanks for the input. |
Silicone elbow works just fine with t-bolt clamps. Pros with silicone elbow is that you can rotate it however you like vs welded cast elbow where its in one final position once welded. There is no special gains in both, its just preferences.
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When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right. Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only. |
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Originally Posted by Russell Walker
(Post 11527207)
When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right. Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only. Best solution is to clock your turbo in the best position possible and weld the cast elbow on it so all you have to use are straight section silicon hose pieces. |
Originally Posted by Russell Walker
(Post 11527207)
When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right. Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only. It really disappointing when people are still being so cheap when it comes to a good quality build. Tell me who boosts 40lbs on 50cent worm clamps? |
Originally Posted by afawaterpolo
(Post 11531569)
Totally agree, and I've also seen people who try and clamp the crap out of them and end up crushing the pipes.
Best solution is to clock your turbo in the best position possible and weld the cast elbow on it so all you have to use are straight section silicon hose pieces. Wiggins clamps would be best if a budget wasn't an issue.... |
Originally Posted by abc
(Post 11532866)
Those piping are called thin wall tubing that weren't met for a heavy clamping. Use better tubing materials then you won't have that problems.
Wiggins clamps would be best if a budget wasn't an issue.... |
TBolt clamps suck.
Other than the fact they look like crap as someone mentioned above if the fabricator is good it does not matter what clamps you use. |
Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 11533756)
TBolt clamps suck.
Other than the fact they look like crap as someone mentioned above if the fabricator is good it does not matter what clamps you use. I have a good array of cast alum elbows sitting in a shelf. I hate, wait let me say that again, I HATE having to deal with cast alum elbows. Removing or reinstalling them are a pain the ass :lol: |
Originally Posted by abc
(Post 11532862)
Tell me who boosts 40lbs on 50cent worm clamps?
Everyone who knows that T-bolts are an 'up-sell' shops use to kids with crappy intercooler piping? Tell me which real race team uses T-bolt clamps? They'll either use Murray turbo seal hose clamps, which is what I use on my car, or they'll make the jump to Wiggens. Forreal, 50 cent clamps are fine forever if your IC piping was done by someone competent. If for some reason you have some hair brained notion of having to spend 20$ a coupler on clamps or else your build is "cheap" Murray Constant Tensions. Constant Tension Clamps PS, on FDs the piping is so short with wiggins I doubt its a problem, but chassis flex/engine movement can become an issue with wiggens. |
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Thread is getting off topic.....Congrats to the English Town champ using T-bolt clamps.
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...nifold-768878/ |
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