BW E-Gate by Full Race, anyone using it?
04-23-24, 07:36 AM
#151
This may be a silly and overly simplistic question, but have you verified continuity of the wires going from the ecu to the wastegate? And also confirmed that the wastegate control wire is in the correct pin of the ECU?
I ask because I was chasing a similar ghost while trying to get my gate to work (not an e-gate, but I was stuck on spring pressure with no control as well). Ended up digging through the harness and found the WG was connected to the pre-control solenoid wire on the harness, and my ECU was talking to the wastegate control wire. Swapped the wiring and boom: Boost control.
I ask because I was chasing a similar ghost while trying to get my gate to work (not an e-gate, but I was stuck on spring pressure with no control as well). Ended up digging through the harness and found the WG was connected to the pre-control solenoid wire on the harness, and my ECU was talking to the wastegate control wire. Swapped the wiring and boom: Boost control.
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mr2peak (04-24-24)
04-23-24, 12:19 PM
#152
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Not a silly question, but yes it's been checked and checked again. We just re-did the whole harness from the questionable Rywire to a nice custom harness so all the wires are new and everything has been gone over before and after.
Full Race still hasn't given me settings. Last email I got from them was on the 17th, they asked for details on my setup and I sent them everything I had. At this point I'm not even sure they know how to control it directly, they might not know how their DCCD controller functions if it was developed by an outside party. That's the most likely scenario I can come up with. I did follow up with an email on the 21st and it's been crickets. Too bad, because if we got this working I'd be a huge supporter of it.
Seems like I might need to remove it, or bite the bullet and get their DCCD box. But that's $550 in the box, then shipping, and then all the dyno time to get it sorted out. It's getting really hard to justify at this point! My advice is, don't use it. Seems like I'm the only one who has tried, so I'd love to hear someone else have a more positive experience.
I did have one person say they had to physically switch the + and - H Bridge wires on their TS e-gate, only swapping the outputs in the software didn't work. So that's the next thing to try but I'm out of time to put into this car for the next few months so it will have to wait.
Full Race still hasn't given me settings. Last email I got from them was on the 17th, they asked for details on my setup and I sent them everything I had. At this point I'm not even sure they know how to control it directly, they might not know how their DCCD controller functions if it was developed by an outside party. That's the most likely scenario I can come up with. I did follow up with an email on the 21st and it's been crickets. Too bad, because if we got this working I'd be a huge supporter of it.
Seems like I might need to remove it, or bite the bullet and get their DCCD box. But that's $550 in the box, then shipping, and then all the dyno time to get it sorted out. It's getting really hard to justify at this point! My advice is, don't use it. Seems like I'm the only one who has tried, so I'd love to hear someone else have a more positive experience.
I did have one person say they had to physically switch the + and - H Bridge wires on their TS e-gate, only swapping the outputs in the software didn't work. So that's the next thing to try but I'm out of time to put into this car for the next few months so it will have to wait.
04-24-24, 02:50 AM
#153
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Full Race wrote back. They don’t know what the settings are. They didn’t write the software for the DCCD.
Talked to another tuner who had the same issues with it on Haltech, so it’s not a FuelTech issue from what I can tell.
There’s no benefit to the egate in my case with their external driver, so I’ll be swapping it out.
Looking forward to it working well on someone else’s build.
This has been fun. We admit defeat.
In the Bin (for now).
Talked to another tuner who had the same issues with it on Haltech, so it’s not a FuelTech issue from what I can tell.
There’s no benefit to the egate in my case with their external driver, so I’ll be swapping it out.
Looking forward to it working well on someone else’s build.
This has been fun. We admit defeat.
In the Bin (for now).
04-26-24, 10:48 PM
#154
all you have to do is buy the e-bridge controller it was intended to work with 
which your refusal to do so makes no sense.
just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
which your refusal to do so makes no sense. just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
04-27-24, 12:09 AM
#155
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
all you have to do is buy the e-bridge controller it was intended to work with which your refusal to do so makes no sense.
just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
which your refusal to do so makes no sense.just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
Post #140, in this thread
There's not much point in using the e-gate without direct control. I will lose a lot of the e-gate functionality with their controller. It's also $550 before taxes and shipping for the controller, and all that functionality is already in the ECU. A Turbosmart e-gate is cheaper than the Full Race IWG and DCCD controller..
I am far from blind to the light of truth here. I was a believer in the tech, I spent the money and the time, and it didn't work out as I intended. I'm sharing that experience so others don't make the same mistakes. You meanwhile don't even have this hardware, and you've offered nothing useful here. You're just here to mock and ridicule from behind your keyboard.
BTW I noticed you got your *** handed to you (again) in the Chips Motorsports thread. People here are sick of your ****, it's not just me.
04-27-24, 12:46 AM
#156
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
FT offered to remote in and see what we can do. Unfortunately I have other things in life that have to take priority over this car at the moment. It might not be the top choice in professional circuit racing, but at least they have actual support for normal customers like myself.
From FT:
"The auto calibrate looks at how much PWM it takes to move the valve a specified amount and if this cannot be done, then the calibration fails. This is to protect the eGate motor from burning out. So if this is occurring above the limits, you will experience what is occurring and will need to either look at how much current the gate uses to move, vs actual position change."
Unfortunately, nobody knows what those safe values are. So there will be a risk of burning out the gate motor, no matter which ECU you are using.
Open CAN would be very useful for other functions I am trying to integrate, mostly for transmission control stuff. But so far that's the only hard wall I've hit as far as ECU capability, and it looks like all those functions can be handled over analog connections.
And I'd like to trigger a fan by oil temp, weirdly that isn't an option. But my temps are stable anyway.
From FT:
"The auto calibrate looks at how much PWM it takes to move the valve a specified amount and if this cannot be done, then the calibration fails. This is to protect the eGate motor from burning out. So if this is occurring above the limits, you will experience what is occurring and will need to either look at how much current the gate uses to move, vs actual position change."
Unfortunately, nobody knows what those safe values are. So there will be a risk of burning out the gate motor, no matter which ECU you are using.
Open CAN would be very useful for other functions I am trying to integrate, mostly for transmission control stuff. But so far that's the only hard wall I've hit as far as ECU capability, and it looks like all those functions can be handled over analog connections.
And I'd like to trigger a fan by oil temp, weirdly that isn't an option. But my temps are stable anyway.
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