When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This may be a silly and overly simplistic question, but have you verified continuity of the wires going from the ecu to the wastegate? And also confirmed that the wastegate control wire is in the correct pin of the ECU?
I ask because I was chasing a similar ghost while trying to get my gate to work (not an e-gate, but I was stuck on spring pressure with no control as well). Ended up digging through the harness and found the WG was connected to the pre-control solenoid wire on the harness, and my ECU was talking to the wastegate control wire. Swapped the wiring and boom: Boost control.
Not a silly question, but yes it's been checked and checked again. We just re-did the whole harness from the questionable Rywire to a nice custom harness so all the wires are new and everything has been gone over before and after.
Full Race still hasn't given me settings. Last email I got from them was on the 17th, they asked for details on my setup and I sent them everything I had. At this point I'm not even sure they know how to control it directly, they might not know how their DCCD controller functions if it was developed by an outside party. That's the most likely scenario I can come up with. I did follow up with an email on the 21st and it's been crickets. Too bad, because if we got this working I'd be a huge supporter of it.
Seems like I might need to remove it, or bite the bullet and get their DCCD box. But that's $550 in the box, then shipping, and then all the dyno time to get it sorted out. It's getting really hard to justify at this point! My advice is, don't use it. Seems like I'm the only one who has tried, so I'd love to hear someone else have a more positive experience.
I did have one person say they had to physically switch the + and - H Bridge wires on their TS e-gate, only swapping the outputs in the software didn't work. So that's the next thing to try but I'm out of time to put into this car for the next few months so it will have to wait.
all you have to do is buy the e-bridge controller it was intended to work with which your refusal to do so makes no sense.
just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
all you have to do is buy the e-bridge controller it was intended to work with which your refusal to do so makes no sense.
just keep being untruthful to yourself i.e. you hate the light of truth and won’t come to it, rather than have to admit to being wrong; which is your technical condemnation MO.
which is all relative to the e-gate working fine for thousands of OE Hondas and you coming in here claiming it doesn’t work. You probably didn’t realize that was the reference of my previous comment. In addition to not researching the subject properly in the first place before heading down this path. You even blew off a suggestion that FT in particular was known to have issues and might not be the best e-gate choice.
Which nobody can convince you of anything FT related, because you’ve been fan boi-ing it all over the forum for the last year or two and will never admit it’s anything other than the best of the best. Which ironically is exactly how you ended up at this juncture.
.
Post #130, in this thread
Originally Posted by mr2peak
FYI, this gate has had problems with many ECUs from a variety of tuners, same issues with Haltech.
By all means go ahead and say it's a FuelTech issue, and take the risk yourself. Sounds like you are confident enough to buy mine...
To expand on this, another rx7 owner used this gate with Haltech, but the motor burned out. I don't consider that a success. Swapping ECUs won't fix this issue. I don't have OEM levels of information to get it to work, apparently neither does Full Race, they didn't develop the controller. I don't know of anyone else running it without the DCCD controller, which bring me to your next blind observation..
Post #140, in this thread
Originally Posted by mr2peak
There's not much point in using the e-gate without direct control. I will lose a lot of the e-gate functionality with their controller. It's also $550 before taxes and shipping for the controller, and all that functionality is already in the ECU. A Turbosmart e-gate is cheaper than the Full Race IWG and DCCD controller..
So, apart from the cost (and keep in mind that's only parts cost, dyno time and tuner time and shipping and import taxes will raise that substantially) I won't be able to take advantage of the e-gate functions within the ECU, because the ECU will think it's a pneumatic gate. So I would be running a very expensive e-gate, that will act like a pneumatic gate... might as well just run the pneumatic gate. I don't intend to run an e-gate to brag about having an e-gate, I want the enhanced and integrated functionality it would offer.
I am far from blind to the light of truth here. I was a believer in the tech, I spent the money and the time, and it didn't work out as I intended. I'm sharing that experience so others don't make the same mistakes. You meanwhile don't even have this hardware, and you've offered nothing useful here. You're just here to mock and ridicule from behind your keyboard.
BTW I noticed you got your *** handed to you (again) in the Chips Motorsports thread. People here are sick of your ****, it's not just me.
FT offered to remote in and see what we can do. Unfortunately I have other things in life that have to take priority over this car at the moment. It might not be the top choice in professional circuit racing, but at least they have actual support for normal customers like myself.
From FT:
"The auto calibrate looks at how much PWM it takes to move the valve a specified amount and if this cannot be done, then the calibration fails. This is to protect the eGate motor from burning out. So if this is occurring above the limits, you will experience what is occurring and will need to either look at how much current the gate uses to move, vs actual position change."
Unfortunately, nobody knows what those safe values are. So there will be a risk of burning out the gate motor, no matter which ECU you are using.
Open CAN would be very useful for other functions I am trying to integrate, mostly for transmission control stuff. But so far that's the only hard wall I've hit as far as ECU capability, and it looks like all those functions can be handled over analog connections.
And I'd like to trigger a fan by oil temp, weirdly that isn't an option. But my temps are stable anyway.
anyway, I am stubborn and I’m continuing this journey because I’m mostly too lazy to remove the e-gate and this is a hobby so trying new things is more rewarding to me vs tried and true.
Anyway, gonna get into this over the next few weeks. Time to see what we can do. I’ve figured out how to use all the e-gate options through FuelTech while also using the DCCD box, making money the only real argument against it, but it was on sale and I’m a sucker for trying things so here we are.
Side note this is how it came in the box, no documentation or wiring diagram, only a sticker. So I’ll hunt down the manual, print it out and add it to the thick build folder I’ve been creating for the car. Kinda wish a printed version was included but perhaps it’s better to save the trees
Looking forward to seeing how this works out for you. I have an interest in e-gates so I'm glad someone is tackling this.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Side note this is how it came in the box, no documentation or wiring diagram, only a sticker. So I’ll hunt down the manual, print it out and add it to the thick build folder I’ve been creating for the car. Kinda wish a printed version was included but perhaps it’s better to save the trees
This has been my experience with anything made by DCCDpro unfortunately :|
Low volume bespoke electronics don't HAVE to be so poorly documented but unfortunately the market is niche enough where there's little competition to force the issue.
lol soon as I say drop the hatchet, you go back to asking me who I want to blame, and edited your sig back to a bible quote. I'm just gonna block you should have done it years ago.
the quote in my signature has always existed, but changes over time; it's simply an integral part of my life wrt who I am. Not sure why it offends you so much or why you never saw or noticed it before, but ok. You can however block signatures in your member control panel no different than blocking entirely if you choose.
I had deleted the other post this morning after your explanation and was just coming back now to send you a pm explaining that I never saw your response in the other thread, thank you for having done so and for letting me know, and apologize for my part in the past angst between us.
This is just another example of making a gross assumption and drawing an incorrect conclusion. Which I’m just as guilty of and am not stating so as a condemnation etc.. My hand is still to stretched out to put this behind us, which for me and my part it is behind regardless. If you want to stay on that course then ok. Wish you the best.
.
I for one, though I consider myself a nobody and don't want to be a "somebody", have enjoyed reading informative posts from both of you and would like to see
ya'll drop the hatchets for the good of the forum community and the visitors. Heck, ya'll get together and have a beer, I'll even buy.... anyway... I hope I haven't offended either of you with this word of friendly admonition.
DCCDPro needs to be mounted in the cabin, so I'll mount it behind the kick panel with the expander and other boxes. Hopefully I can re-pin the wires from the ECU plug, using a plug with the same pin type so it's reversible. If anyone knows of a 5 way plug that uses the same pins as the SuperSeal 26 and 34 connectors, please let me know. Tying to be as peaceful as possible with the existing wiring harness.
1 year later bump, anyone using one of the full race eiwg natively with haltech elite yet?
Elite will struggle since half bridges don't have enough juice to properly drive an e-gate from my experience. Even the 8amp outputs on the Nexus are slow for an e-gate. the 25s on the hand drive significantly better.
So late last year, we got it working after several tries, without the DCCDpro. Sometimes the heat shield would be in the way, sometimes it wasn't an issue. Hence the problems calibrating it. So, make more space, all good we thought.
Spend 4 hours on the dyne getting it dialed in, and it just didn't want to do what we wanted. Simply wasn't fast enough to respond. Best we could get was a quick spike to 18psi, then it would drop to 16, then taper up to 18 again. We tried all sorts of stuff, but the turbo simply spools too quick for the e-gate. Going quick on/off/on the gas was unpredictable, like I said it just won't move fast enough. It's not a voltage issue, we had it hooked up with the FuelTech dual power driver. It's simply a function of the OEM gate not up to the task.
Will a TS e-gate work better? Maybe. Maybe it will be fast enough. But Haltech warns people that the tuning for the e-gate needs to take into account that the gate is meaningfully slower than a pneumatic gate.
So, spent some money to learn a few things. This year we are going with Turbosmart pneumatic straight external gates instead.
I cannot recommend this e-gate setup for the FD. We had unlimited dyno time to figure it out, and ran into the physical speed limitations of the e-gate.
The straight through diaphragm gates should give a decent control range with modest springs. May need a flow restrictor and solenoid frequency tuning to get smooth control well above spring pressure.
which your refusal to do so makes no sense. 
