zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

Well, after 3 months of not being able to decide what to do: Sell the car? Go single? Replace the twins?

I finally bit the bullet and started ordering parts for a single turbo project. I will use this thread to post pics and updates for any who might be interested.

The car:
95 Rx7 Custom MB Paint
Enkei RPF1 18"
Dunlop Direzza
RP Streetported motor with 3mm mazda seals. (60k miles)
HKS twinpower
PFC
Profec B
Ground Control Coilover w/ custom springs
Tanabe sway bars
Oil/water/egt/boost gauges
RB 3" dual tip exahaust
CAT/EGR removed
Twins running 13.5psi and 315whp
Corner balanced and track proven
etc. etc.

The motor's compression is quite low (70s and 80s) and the stock twins are not only burning oil, but leaking exhaust in the engine bay. Rather than bother working to fix the turbos, I'm just gonna yank the whole thing and replace it all.

Plans for the car:
1) New Mazda motor from Malloy. This is a factory made, brand new motor.
2) GT35r kit from RX7store. 1.00 A/R T4 divided
3) AI - likely 50/50 meth/water
4) 425rwhp - daily driven - with A/C and nice sound system

The goal is 19psi on the 35r with as much mid-range torque and top end that tuning will allow. We will likely run aggressive AFRs around 12.25. I have ordered the block from Malloy and the turbo kit from rx7store.

The first step will be swapping the motors and breaking in the new engine. I'll have to drive it with no boost at all for a while. Then we will finish the single install and tune to 9-10psi and I will drive the car for a while longer. Then tune to 14-15psi and drive some more. Finally, add the AI and tune up to 17-19psi. This will be done on stock ports and stock 2mm seals.

Stay tuned for pics of the shiny new parts

Rx72Heaven

iTrader: (2)

Sounds great, good luck with the build.

Envisioned7

Good luck with the build bro..hope everything comes together smoothly

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Any exterior pics of the car in it's current state? I'm most interested in your wheel/tire/suspension setup

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

This is before the window tint (which I wish Ididn't have when I'm at the track =/). 285s rear. 255s front. aggressive camber all around.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

If you want the best power torque curve under 20psi you may want to look at the 3574 or better the 3574R from A-spec.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

all i know is that a 2007 auto x champion used a gt35r on this fd. So I figure it can be tuned to have enough early spool.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Neither of the turbos I suggested were even available in 07.
Here is a quote from Sean @ A-Spec regarding these turbos.
Got a link to that 2007 Auto-x winner?

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the heads up. Hopefully the gt35r 1.00 will be fine, since I've already ordered it. . I'm not a competitive racer, so I don't think small differences will matter. I'd have to be a much better driver. I went with rx7store because it was $1200 cheaper than A-spec. I realize the manifold is an ebay model vs the a-spec beauty, but I've seen ebay manifolds hold up fine.

You know, I found a great auto-x site a while back and I've been looking for it ever since. I'll try and do some more searching to come up with the information I'm referring to. Maybe someone knows who I'm talking about. It is a black FD with a CF "scoop" hood and giant spoiler, Fender flares, fully modded auto-x winner. I don't know which auto-x division, but he got first in 07 and I think 2nd in 06.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

OK I found the info on the SCCA AutoX FD. This site has info on 3 BAD *** SCCA competing FDs. Erik's (the one I was mistakenly describing above) is a 3-rotor, but both the other two are two-rotor with the gt35r.

All three cars can be viewed here: http://7parts.com/
click on 'sponsored cars' to view specs.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

$1200 less?? uhm no....? GT3574 kits are $2499 I actually have them on sale for $2399. Just wanted to make sure people don't get the wrong idea.

AMRX7

I have one of those 3 autox RX-7's on the 7parts site. Erik Strelnieks has the 3-rotor black car and he uses a GT40R with custom built manifold/exhaust. I have the red car and use a GT35R kit that used to be offered by the RX-7 store a few years ago (I believe Phamspeed made them for them). While my kit has held up over the years, it has never really made the numbers I expected and has a very non-optimal routing of the wg's back into the dp.

Since I've learned alot in the last few years from watching other builds and looking at dyno results, I decided it was finally time to do the manifold/dp setup "right". So I have a new setup coming from A-Spec that should give me the rapid spool up needed for autox and still hit a good power number.

-Andy McKee

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

"it costs less to do it right the first time"

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

I think he was comparing price for the gt35r from you guys and from jason.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

reach your fingers inside that manifold and check where the wastegate runners start when you get it. rx7store shipped me one that was so bad there was atleast 1/2" of metal from the main runners overhanging the opening for the wastegate runners making the thing completely useless in attempting any sort of boost control.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

correct. I am obviously talking about the turbo I bought.. gt35r. But that is the LAST thing I want this thread to be focused on.

Thanks for posting Andy. Can you PM me the details of what you are getting from A-Spec and the specific issues with the rx7store kit?

Thanks!

I'm aware that the Aspec stuff is better, but I'm just on a budget and since this is my first single, and I'm not racing, I figure the rx7store kit will work fine for now.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads up. I and my shop will evaluate the kit upon receipt. I also received a PM from someone saying that although advertised as T4, the kit has been known to only have a T4 flange, but a T3 housing. If that is the case on what I receive, it is being returned.

Couldn't the 1/2 inch of metal be removed, or was it too hard to get to? I suppose one could cut and re-weld a chinese manifold to work out the issues..

I actually have an XSPOWER manifold sitting on my lap right now. It is t4 divided with an HKS style WG. Although there are some rough edges that i would burr before using, there is no overlap or anything. Quality welds, if not a bit thin in a spot or two. But the thing was $100..

Edit: OK now I see what you're talking about. I was feeling the wrong side of the WG runners. Each WG runner has a 1/4 to 1/2 overlap of the main runners. This overlap is on the side of the WG runner closest to the turbo flange. The holes to the WG runners still seem big though. You think this overlap would make the WG not function properly? Aren't there people using chinese manifolds with no creep issues?

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

I made a quick free-hand diagram of what the issue is and where it is positioned in relation to exhaust flow. This is a simplified 'single runner' example of what I'm finding on the XSPower (ebay craptastic) manifold. I'd like some opinions on what this may do.

Honestly, most other aspects of the chinese manifold look fine. The pipes are smooth and welds tight. But I'm no expert!

Thanks,
Ian

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

IIRC, most 35r's are t3's with a t4 flange welded on. i believe for a while a-spec was the only place to get a true t4 version of the 35r. people have had great results with the 35r with the t3 hotside and a t4 flange so make sure you do a little digging before making your final decision on the return. that being said, i would much prefer the quality and waranty of the a-spec kits

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

I have the same problem with my rx7store manifold. I was able to grind away most of the overhanging metal to improve flow to the wastegate, unfortunately I still haven't had my setup tuned( a-spec 3574, w rx7store Mani/downpipe) so I can't comment on how it affects creep yet but from the amount of material I removed I'm certain it will improve boost control. My SP t04r would creep up to 16-17psi on this same manifold on really cold nights.

FWIW I wish I got all my single parts from a-spec to begin with. Quality parts and top notch customer service. And you can't beat the lifetime warranty on their mani/dp. A-spec ftw

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks for clarifying. To my knowledge, they both come with warranties.

Anyway, I've already bought one, so I'm likely to burr out the overlap on the manifold I receive (assuming it has the same issue) and then I'll bolt it on up and see how it does...

I'm expecting the motor to arrive early this week.

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

just curious as to why you didnt just have RP build you a nice engine instead of paying the dealer$hip for a reman?

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

It isn't a reman. It is a NEW motor. $3500 + a blown motor for a new block is not a bad deal. That means new housings, new side plates, new rotors, new seals, new water pump, new oil pan, new pulleys, new belts, etc. etc... Fresh from the factory. I am going to have the pleasure of being the first owner of this particular engine. I think the new motors are basically 99 spec, so it has an updated oil pan (less leakages) and maybe a few other small improvements.

This means I can perform power and reliability modifications from day one. A stock motor that starts its life with water/alky injection. I'll also be using premix, not the OMP.

Mazda periodically makes batches of brand new motors from their factory in Japan. They just moved their reman facility and they want to breath life back into their reman program. In order to do that, they are selling some new motors with a $1000 core charge. They then take our cores to be made into remans. They are going to be unpleasantly surprised when they open up a lot of those cores though. Porting, 3mm rotors, gouged housings... lol.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

On my street ported engine with non resonated midpipe it could not even come close to regulating boost, the 8psi spring would creep to 17psi+. It was so bad that im sure a stock port engine with stock cat and exhaust would still see creep. I was able to grind it out by sticking a long shaft die grinder in there but was very limited in the angle and it took forever to just get ok. I think the best way would be to cut both wastegate runners off as close to the mains as possible so you could really get the grinder in there to open it up (like it should have been before rx7store ships them) and then re-weld them.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, new rotary *drool*

I brought the car to the shop today and took a look at the motor. They'll be swapping it in and I'll be driving in no time.

1k miles with no boost :*(

I'm going to try and fix this darn manifold. It will still be worth it I think. $100 plus some labor vs $850 for a custom manifold.