ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Hey all,
There are TONS of vac diagrams, and that's the problem. Is there any consensus on the best one to work from for a single turbo install w/ no emissions, and/or a good tutorial on what to do with the harness as well, i.e.: what solonoids to keep, clips to trim/cover, etc.

I feel like this part will be the hardest part of my install. FWIW, it's a 13B getting a B/W 8374 IWG, with 550 primaries on stock rail, ID2000 secondaries, no emissions, etc., PFC.

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

If were talking the "best" I would replace the engine harness with a Rywire single turbo harness. I currently use one its pretty bad *** and very nice quality.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

My harness, solonoids, and vacuum lines are in good condition, I just need to know how to redo it all from TT mode.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

If you are using the stock harness, I like to remove everything that is not needed. Typically I remove:

The sequential solenoid connectors
Air control valve connectors
EGR connector
Accelerated warmup connector
Fuel temp connector
Turbo control connector (the one on top of acv)

If you never plan to use the PFC boost control you can remove the turbo precontrol and wastegate connectors.

Open the harness right before it splits into the solenoid connectors. When you cut those off you will see about 3 thicker black wires with a white tracer. Connect all those together. Otherwise you will lose the power to the idle control.

I like to leave everything else.

DEI makes some nice heat resistant harness tape.

Vicoor

Keep in mind, your car will have to go through inspection in northern Virginia.

So air pump, EGR, and such is supposed to be there.

Now if it's tuned good enough, it'll pass tailpipe emissions with only a catalyst, but the inspector is supposed to verify it's all there

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I'm not really worried about that. It's a track car.

I'm just looking for good visual diagram or pictorial on what stays and what goes in terms of solonoids, tanks, etc., and how to plumb and wire what's left together.

Vicoor

Then, you really only need to be concerned with boost control. I'm not familiar with the PFC, but you should investigate how that function works.

Also, while the basic functions of engine management can be handled with a PFC, but since you don't have to manage the sequential turbo "mess", you may want to look at other more flexible systems.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Right. I need a good diagram/pictorial of the minimum required solonoid set up to run the car. I'm not sure if the PFC can work with the built-in EFR solonoid, but it should be a big deal to add a boost controller if required.

Vicoor

The simple answer to that is none, the solenoids all actuate various devices related to emissions and sequential turbo operation. If you are going to track the car and use a standalone boost controller, then there should be no reason to carry any of those extra devices around .

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

No offense, I need something slightly more actionable. I've peered under the hood of a lot of single turbo cars, and there still seem to be a few vacuum lines and such. Where do I run them?

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

depends on how you run the vacuum lines. I run these for my set up.

I have three vacuum lines running from the intercooler pipe or turbo. (you can T the boost lines)

Line from intercooler to boost controller solenoid.
intercooler pipe to wastegate.

boost controller solenoid to wastegate. (the solenoid is between the intercooler pipe and wastegate).

intercooler pipe to the fuel atomization nipple.

I have a line from my intake to catch can, and then catch can to my oil fill neck. fill neck to catch can runs "uphill" and I catch nothing.

I run a vacuum hose from the FPR to the back of a nipple on the LIM/ back of engine to pull vacuum.

boost controller to the UIM by the LIM.

map sensor to the UIM. UIM to the BOV.

intake to OMP injectors.

hope this helps.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

his is exactly what I was looking for. So with regard to the FPR, that that line is running to a vacuum source, and not the "A" solonoid as it would appear?

I was looking at the attached diagram, which is similar.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

You will run it to a vacuum source on the back of the engine (whever the line runs stock). I can't remember the exact location since its been a while since I did mine. But it needs to pull vacuum/pressure to adjust the FPR accordingly.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

Now for the harness running to the ECU.

I would run all the wires below (this was pulled from Rywire harness)

•Coolant Temp (for ECU)
•Knock Sensor
•Injectors 1-4
•Ground for the ECU
•Oxygen Sensor
•Coolant for gauges
•Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
•Intake Air Temp (IAT)
•4 transmission connections
•Fan Switch
•Cam & Crank sensors
•Oil monitoring pump
•2 ECU plugs & 2 chassis plugs
•Plus a ground for the cam and crank shield
•And 2 extra wires for adding whatever you need

Mil-spec Tucked 13B Harness (FD3S/Rx7)


I would also run the IAC (idle air control) since you get better idle control.

If you find a secondary rail to run the fuel temp sensor, you can also keep that as well, you will get better idle control.

That is how I would set it up.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

This is the fuel set-up I'm running:

FD Fuel Step Up Kit | Full Function Engineering

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

So when you say "vacuum source," it doesn't need to be constant vacuum like off the vac tank in a TT system, just whatever the manifold is seeing? So sometimes vac, sometimes boost?

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I am running basically the same system. full function primary and secondary rails. I made my own -6an lines. I do not run the fuel temp sensor.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

It needs to have vacuum and boost. that is how the FPR adjusts its pressure.


you first set the FPR with the vacuum line off. most people set it to around 40PSI. you then plug the vacuum hose into the FPR and the pressure drops. when you going into boost and the pressure increases, the FPR also increases pressure. It keeps a constant pressure differential between vacuum/boost.

so if you are boosting nothing or have the vacuum line off it has 40PSI, if you boost say 20PSI, the FPR need to be at 60PSI to maintain the 40PSI differential. that is why having good fuel flow at XX pressure is so important,, because fuel flow decreases with fuel pressure. high boost turbo's tax the fuel pumps more and might need dual pumps, etc, etc, etc.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Got it. Thank you, this is making more sense and seems doable.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Fuel pressure boost/vacuum source I usually take off the front of the intake manifold as I mount the regulator where the turbo precontrol and wastegate solenoids were. If you mount the regulator on the back of the secondary rail you can use the nipple on the inside of the lower intake manifold. 43.5 psi base fuel pressure is what is recommend for ID and EV14 injectors.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

So, questions on this diagram:

1. The Yellow line, which I think is a fuel atomization line, is plumbed to IC piping, which I could interpret as any boost source, yes? could I tee it off one (or two) of the unused nipples on the UIM Instead, so that I don't need to fabricate a nipple in one of the IC pipes?

2. Purple lines from OMP injectors, I assume since they are plumbed to the intake, they aren't a source of boost or vacuum, correct, they are just a vent tube? Could I plumb someplace else (like a catch can), so that one again I don't need to fab a nipple onto my intake filter somehow?

Thanks!

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

1) I just followed the diagram myself. I am unsure of moving the line on the other side of the throttle body?

2) The intake is actually a source of vacuum. I imagine you could T it to something going to the intake.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Boost source should come from the plenum (or close to it). Tapping off the intake piping is just for people that don't take the time to do it right. The only exception is for anything that wants a reference right at the turbo compressor, like some wastegate instructions suggest to do.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

For the oil nozzles, I can't imagine you'd draw any vacuum from the turbo inlet with a little 3.5mm tube, especially with a giant opening with a filter on it.

Everything that runs to the turbo inlet is venting (PCV) not drawing... there would be numerous other vacuum sources available that would be better, if that's what it needed, no?

I'm thinking for the injector atomizer line, source two unused 1/8" UIM nipples, and y-connect them to a single 1/4" line to the LIM... saves you from having to plug those UIM nipples anyway.

Vicoor

I don't think you want vacuum to the oil injector nozzles. I think you want air flow to atomize the oil.

On the intake "stroke" the air pressure is lower inside that portion of the rotor housing. You would want atmospheric air pressure to push air through the nozzles. And after examining the factory "vacuum" hose diagram, it turns out, the original location is at the inlet of the rear turbo.