Best coolant fittings/hoses to run with GT35R?
02-07-07, 01:43 PM
#26
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Sean replied to keep this thread from getting out of hand and it seams people are replying over nothing in his defense. THere was only one quote that was not even first hand knoledge which is how rumers are started and get exagerated. The original poster only wanted info on upgrades. The reply from another shop did not bash either. One member posted a poorly phrase reply.
I am one of the people that mounted the w/g wrong
and was sent bolts that were too short but I never posted that in my thread. Sean imediately sent me replacements that i'm shure cost as much as the shipping. Anyhow, I am one of the beginner diy'rs and when I thought my problems were because of my own lack of install knowledge, I paid to have it done for me. I had some fittings that had bad threads but that's easily fixed with tap&die and others I replaced with aluminum for a blue theme and to change the angles.
but back to the topic on hand. the original poster wanted upgraded lines and fittings. some of us here have done some unnecessary overkill installs which I beleive is what he is looking for. there's nothing wrong with that if you have the time, patience and money.
I am one of the people that mounted the w/g wrong
and was sent bolts that were too short but I never posted that in my thread. Sean imediately sent me replacements that i'm shure cost as much as the shipping. Anyhow, I am one of the beginner diy'rs and when I thought my problems were because of my own lack of install knowledge, I paid to have it done for me. I had some fittings that had bad threads but that's easily fixed with tap&die and others I replaced with aluminum for a blue theme and to change the angles. but back to the topic on hand. the original poster wanted upgraded lines and fittings. some of us here have done some unnecessary overkill installs which I beleive is what he is looking for. there's nothing wrong with that if you have the time, patience and money.
02-07-07, 01:57 PM
#27
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by dubulup
^don't be shy atihun...how many water pump housings did you go thru before you got it right 
I broke the housings around the lower connector when tapping, because I was trying to go with 1/4 NPT and it was leaving the wall too thin.
It is more expensive, especially when the kit already had what is needed.
But I had a bunch of fittings and ss line left from doing my fuel setup.
Last edited by atihun; 02-07-07 at 02:13 PM.
02-07-07, 02:09 PM
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Attila, I've been thinking of doing the same thing with a spare ceramic coated water pump housing I have laying around. Your engine bay is a work of art 
Make sure to "practice" on one that isn't already coated...I did see someone else on the forum but forgot whom, that had the fittings TIG welded to the wp housing. I didn't think that would work as it is a cast aluminum piece, but if it does, that is probably the best way to go IMHO.
02-07-07, 02:21 PM
#29
Attila I think your setup is great don't get me wrong in any way, I just can't imagine the calls I would get if I sent out those lines and fittings with the kit then being blamed for their car being down longer than need be. You can use weld on bungs but you will need to remove the steel insert and make sure you clean the casting well. Plus you better be pretty familiar with a tig.
-S-
-S-
02-07-07, 02:24 PM
#30
Originally Posted by crispeed
I feel your pain.
You can understand and excuse the do-it-yourselfer that is only trying but the sad part are the ones who come on here to bash and redicule a manufacturer base on no personal experience and their lack of knowledge to get the job done properly.
Exactly.
-S-
02-07-07, 07:00 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Zero R
I don't, I just find it very funny that I provide the fittings needed that any other place would use and somehow they are shitty because people probably A) are working out of their garage without proper tools and such or B) have little experience with installing it. So immediatly that means the correct fittings are at fault. They are the same exact steel fittings that are sold by other turbo supply houses.
As for the oil drain line they have been replaced on all but the short manifolds.
There is no way it would have given any issues within that short of time. There had to be other issues.
The coolant lines I send are more than adequate, I will not send lines and fittings that are going to require you to modify the water pump. Could I? Sure. But then I'll be getting people complaining about having to modify their water pump, breaking fittings or taps in the pump. For the few on here such as attila or dubulup or guys like goodfellas who have access or the knowledge that is one thing. They are the exception. But I deal with phone calls daily about why my turbo is broken because it is not pointing in the right direction. Or my wastegate don't fit only to have it mounted on backwards or it's leaking and don't work only to realize they forgot the valve seat. I can't even tell you how many people tell me I send them the wrong size studs and they snapped them off and need me to replace their manifold. The studs are designed to lock in so the don't vibrate out. I go out of my way now to put the harder to assemble 1.0 turbo's completely assembled and orientated so that the customer can see how it fits together. My point is simple because people say the fittings suck or are shitty keep in mind that complaint can also possibly be on them.
-S-
As for the oil drain line they have been replaced on all but the short manifolds.
There is no way it would have given any issues within that short of time. There had to be other issues.
The coolant lines I send are more than adequate, I will not send lines and fittings that are going to require you to modify the water pump. Could I? Sure. But then I'll be getting people complaining about having to modify their water pump, breaking fittings or taps in the pump. For the few on here such as attila or dubulup or guys like goodfellas who have access or the knowledge that is one thing. They are the exception. But I deal with phone calls daily about why my turbo is broken because it is not pointing in the right direction. Or my wastegate don't fit only to have it mounted on backwards or it's leaking and don't work only to realize they forgot the valve seat. I can't even tell you how many people tell me I send them the wrong size studs and they snapped them off and need me to replace their manifold. The studs are designed to lock in so the don't vibrate out. I go out of my way now to put the harder to assemble 1.0 turbo's completely assembled and orientated so that the customer can see how it fits together. My point is simple because people say the fittings suck or are shitty keep in mind that complaint can also possibly be on them.
-S-
Originally Posted by crispeed
but the sad part are the ones who come on here to bash and redicule a manufacturer base on no personal experience and their lack of knowledge to get the job done properly.
Originally Posted by GoRacer
THere was only one quote that was not even first hand knoledge which is how rumers are started and get exagerated. One member posted a poorly phrase reply.
02-08-07, 12:58 PM
#33
Rotary Enthusiast
It was CMonakar that welded the fittings in place, turned out very nice too:
I think what you send is more than adequate for those people that are just bolting things in and don't know how to or don't have time to make custom stuff.
Attila I think your setup is great don't get me wrong in any way, I just can't imagine the calls I would get if I sent out those lines and fittings with the kit then being blamed for their car being down longer than need be. You can use weld on bungs but you will need to remove the steel insert and make sure you clean the casting well. Plus you better be pretty familiar with a tig.
-S-
-S-
02-28-07, 11:44 PM
#34
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Originally Posted by unvmyrx7
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL
2 ATP-FLA-009
2 ATP-OIL-007
1 ATP-OIL-017
2 GRT-GSK-011
2 ATP-FLA-009
2 ATP-OIL-007
1 ATP-OIL-017
2 GRT-GSK-011
Also, I noticed the custom lines are $15 and the fixed/pre-made ones re $40. The only difference listed is swival ends. 
03-02-07, 07:17 PM
#35
Originally Posted by GoRacer
Do you have the T3 version? Also, I noticed the custom lines are $15 and the fixed/pre-made ones re $40. The only difference listed is swival ends.
Also, I noticed the custom lines are $15 and the fixed/pre-made ones re $40. The only difference listed is swival ends. i have the short manifold t3 kit. i quoted the wrong part numbers. buy the custom lenght you need, it's cheaper. the correct oil drain billet flange part # is ATP-FLA-010.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB
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