Wompa164

iTrader: (4)

Hello everyone,

I'm just finishing up my A-Spec GT35R installation. I've noticed a few people have been using other coolant fittings and hoses than what's provided with the A-Spec 35R/500R kits.

What fittings and hoses are you guys running? My turbo kit is already installed on the car and I don't want to remove it. Are there any fittings that you guys can recommend for me that I can install with my turbo already in the car?

Cost is not an issue. I'd like to run the absolute best quality fittings and hoses that I can purchase.

I'm trying to finish up my car and this is the last thing I have. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks

No_Rotor_RX7

this is weird that you post about that... we just redid a customers oil/water lines for his A-spec gt35r kit. he tracks the car mostly and heat is a big issue. his oil return and water feed are showing some signs of accelerated wear.

this issue was resolved by going all stainless braided lines. water feed/ return and oil return. the oil feed was already stainless so that's good

to do this PROPERLY the turbo must be removed. it's worth it tho... we also redid his wastegate lines in the same manner. i'll try to snap some pics tomorrow at the shop so you can see how it will be.

Wompa164

iTrader: (4)

Awesome, I appreciate the help!

Why do you say the turbo must be removed to install the fittings/lines 'properly'?

Also, do you happen to know the diameter of the lines and the measurements of the fittings you used?

Thanks!

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Hardline it, then use TFE fittings/hose...

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

hmm... im also interested in this to... as much as i love A-spec, countless people are telling me the lines and fittings they provide are shitty

can you provide us with parts names and numbers for the things that need to be replaced that come with the Aspec GT35R kit?

cost, again isnt an issue... because lines and fittings really wont cost that much

and i dont want to hardline it... to much effort/time envolved.

JHew84

iTrader: (9)

subscribed, very interested in seeing those pictures and any other little bits of info posted .

dubulup

http://user1002527.wx19.registeredsi...gory_Code=acfg

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I had a problem with the oil inlet fitting, replaced it with Earls. The "L" bend was bent and the compression did not seal correctly. I have no idea why the large diameter return is retained. I will be replacing that with some fittings and a SS line but haven't had the cash to do so yet. You can get the fittings and line custom made to length from ATP turbo. My coolant hoses were replaced with that hard blue line from Baker. I'm not worried about replacing those at this time.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

A-spec now offers a s/s oil return line, I picked one of those up recently. It was pretty cheap, like $40.

For the coolant lines, I ended up using the ones they provided and so far, so good. I also have a length of the blue Baker hose which is supposed to be the best stuff around. I'll eventually install it

No_Rotor_RX7

damn, i forgot to get the pics.. it's ok tho the car is still in the shop for other stuff i'll be sure to get them tomorrow.. i didn't think there was this much interest. our setup we did is specific to Goodridge. we use them on all our custom lines (omp, dual oil cooler kits, etc...). this particular one was done from some of the goodridge braided stock we have in the shop. even the wastegate lines.

i'll post specifics with the pics

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Before everybody here starts going off the deep end, the fittings are steel JIC fittings made by parker, hardly shitty. The coolant lines are all sae coolant line and if routed correctly have never been a issue. Obviously you would like to keep them away from the turbine or manifold as much as possible and or sleeve them if you get the chance. The oil inlet fitting on the block is a earls fitting so not too sure about that either. The oil inlet on the turbo depending on which setup you go with will be either a hard line with a tubenut and I wont lie it's a pain to get it on and very easy to not seat it correctly causing a slight leak. Or a standard steel parker -4 fitting. The only issue we have ever run into here is the drains were showing fatigue that has been addressed with the newer braided and lined hose, made the same as the feed both are parker fluid as well. So unless I'm missing something here and please tell me if I am, earls and parker are not exactly shitty and there could be some room at least for arguement about quality of install with a lot of people doing there own.

-S-

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Oil inlet to turbo with tubenut compression - is the one I had problems with also.
Water lines were replaced for me. it was my installers choice to go with Baker blue stuff.
Oil return/drain - yeah mine kinked and had pin holes. I would like to see your replacements for this. If I can buy from you then I don't have to custom order.

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

ZeroR... dont take my post before this as offending or anything.... if anything i promote Aspec to the fullest... and im sure youve seen that in most of my posts

but ive heard complaints from quite a few people about the lines/fittings that are provided in your kit.

i will be buying a kit from you guys (GT35R) and hope by that time everything will be resolved about the lines/fittings and whatnot

- Artin

Wompa164

iTrader: (4)

Can anyone post the fitting sizes of the GT35R coolant connections? And also, the size of the water pump connections?

unvmyrx7

iTrader: (14)

the stock water hose size on the water pump housing and the barbed fittings supplied with your kit is 5/16 i.d. i used reinforced silicone heater hoses from hosetechniques for my coolant lines.

http://www.hosetechniques.com/catalo...y%20the%20foot

my kit was supplied with a regular rubber hose for the oil drain. this was absolute garbage. it bubbled internally causing a blockage which caused the oil to back up tru the oil filler neck and spilled all over the engine. keep in mind i have not even put 1 mile on the kit as yet. i recently purchased these parts from atpturbo to replace the rubber return drain

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

2 ATP-FLA-009
2 ATP-OIL-007
1 ATP-OIL-017
2 GRT-GSK-011

atihun

This worked for me:



You can make them to any lenght you need.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

UnvMyRx7 - Wow, that's pretty similar to what I wanted to do except I thought I had to do custom length. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

Wompa164

iTrader: (4)

Atihun - that looks awesome!

Can you post the part numbers for the connections you used?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Attila, I've been thinking of doing the same thing with a spare ceramic coated water pump housing I have laying around. Your engine bay is a work of art

dubulup

agreed.
I think you had other issues...I blocked oil drain cannot back fill the filler neck; it will cause your turbo to smoke from oil not being able to properly drain. Less than 1 mile and you baked the oil drain hose sounds like a timing issue if you have that much heat being generated.

unvmyrx7

iTrader: (14)

ah yes, there was smoke from the oil being cooked on the turbine and block.not tru the exhaust. i was reving the engine at about 4k for 3 minutes. as far as the timing goes, the power fc is still not tuned. i'm using the stock map. i ripped off the oil return and found an internal bubble. it's been too cold outside to install the new atp oil return. hopefully it's not another problem that caused the oil to back up and spray out the oil filler neck pcv nipple.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I don't, I just find it very funny that I provide the fittings needed that any other place would use and somehow they are shitty because people probably A) are working out of their garage without proper tools and such or B) have little experience with installing it. So immediatly that means the correct fittings are at fault. They are the same exact steel fittings that are sold by other turbo supply houses.

As for the oil drain line they have been replaced on all but the short manifolds.

There is no way it would have given any issues within that short of time. There had to be other issues.

The coolant lines I send are more than adequate, I will not send lines and fittings that are going to require you to modify the water pump. Could I? Sure. But then I'll be getting people complaining about having to modify their water pump, breaking fittings or taps in the pump. For the few on here such as attila or dubulup or guys like goodfellas who have access or the knowledge that is one thing. They are the exception. But I deal with phone calls daily about why my turbo is broken because it is not pointing in the right direction. Or my wastegate don't fit only to have it mounted on backwards or it's leaking and don't work only to realize they forgot the valve seat. I can't even tell you how many people tell me I send them the wrong size studs and they snapped them off and need me to replace their manifold. The studs are designed to lock in so the don't vibrate out. I go out of my way now to put the harder to assemble 1.0 turbo's completely assembled and orientated so that the customer can see how it fits together. My point is simple because people say the fittings suck or are shitty keep in mind that complaint can also possibly be on them.

-S-

crispeed

I feel your pain.
You can understand and excuse the do-it-yourselfer that is only trying but the sad part are the ones who come on here to bash and redicule a manufacturer base on no personal experience and their lack of knowledge to get the job done properly.

atihun

Sean is right, what he provided will work very well. If you have the skills and / or patience, you can do it any other way you like.

Here's what I used: (you can find them at jeggs.com, summitracing.com, or racerpartswholesale.com)





from the pictures above:

1/4 NPT to -6AN - top feed
1/8 NPT to -6AN - bottom feed

Additional AN fittings and SS lines depending on how you route the lines.

The first picture shows how I modified the housing. I cut the steel nipples all the way down to the housing. The top one has more material in the housing around the hole so using 1/4 NPT to -6 is okay.

The bottom one as you can see has very little wall material so when you drill and tap out the hole, the wall of the housing is very thin. That is where i used a 1/8 NPT to -6. Once in place I drilled out some of the fitting to make the hole larger.

One thing to note is that the nipples themselves are steel inserts, and you must make sure to drill them exactly on center to get all the material out and leave a good hole. On one of my housings on the small nipple, the steel insert was larger and therefore left a thin wall around the hole even after tapping it; that won't hurt unless it slides out.

You can use the fittings Sean provided with the turbo, if he provided the brass NPT to AN fittings.

dubulup

^don't be shy atihun...how many water pump housings did you go thru before you got it right