Hi Guys,
Soon i will go to the dyno and i need your help and advise on timing my 13B series 8 engine.
I used Pineapple Racing templates to port the engine with medium street port for inlet and EP4A template port for exhaust.
Any one using or know the timing settings for those templates?
Thanks

 

assume you are referring to ignition timing rather than the actual port timing

timing is somewhat dependent on fuel type/mix and a few other factors.

we need more info

 

This is for your tuner to decide. No 2 cars are the same. Hopefully you're not attempting to tune it yourself

 

Of course i am not tuning it my self. This are just some extra info to provide to my tuner since every engine is build with different versions or type of parts (example apex seals, corner seals, side seals water seals etc) there are different brands out there also a lot of different type of porting both for inlet and exhaust. of course this is depend on my tuner but i need ignition timing degrees for pineapple racing medium street port inlet and EP4A exhaust to provide him with some numbers for better safety.
Thanks

 

From experience..... it would be best to not "help" your tuner unless specifically asked. They know whay they're doing and it can be really annoying to have someone trying to "help" do a job that you were hired by them to do.

Water seals and things have no impact on the tune at all nor do they influence what "numbers" will be input. Unless you are specifically asked for this information, it would be best to leave it alone. High chance it's irrelevant if it's not being requested.

 

^^just curious if you even know where the Republic of Cypress is located on a world map/globe?
.

 

I'm not sure it's as important for us to find Cyprus on a globe, but if the tuner isn't experienced with rotary engines you should probably show him this video:

In piston terms, the rotary engine maps similar to fragile turbocharged engines like EJ25 or 7MGTE, or an old B-series Honda with stock internals and a turbo added. You need to be careful and conservative because the internals aren't strong enough to tolerate knock. Before the dyno session, be sure the ECU failsafes are configured so it can completely cut fuel and spark if the engine runs too lean during a full throttle pull. Don't run it hard if temperatures are too hot. Do part-throttle sweeps before full throttle sweeps, so you can find and fix any problems at light load. Start the full-throttle sweeps at wastegate spring pressure, don't go straight to big-power where the engine is at the most risk.

Compared to piston engines, turbo rotaries don't need as much ignition advance, this could be due to the geometry of the combustion chamber and because the rotor spins at 1/3 the crankshaft speed, while the piston moves at 1/2 the crankshaft speed. At 6000 RPM crankshaft speed, the piston would be making 3000 cycles per minute while the rotor is only making 2000 revolutions per minute. Rotary engines have a trailing ignition coil, which is incredibly rare on piston engines. Most ECUs will have a table for setting trailing ignition split, the delay for firing the secondary ignition coils, so if the leading coils are firing at 15 degrees BTDC and the trailing split is 10 degrees then the trailing coils will fire at (15-10) 5 degrees BTDC. Since Trailing split measures ignition delay, higher numbers are more conservative. 15 degrees of ignition split is considered a safe starting point, a turbo rotary engine will probably not make more power if you change this to 10 degrees trailing split (which is less safe) or 5 degrees trailing split (which is even less safe).

Be sure to use plenty of fuel in boost to keep temperatures down, don't run aggressive 'lean is mean' lambda targets. One big difference is injector staging, since that is very uncommon to find on piston engines. I prefer to stage the secondaries in at low RPM and low boost, so the stakes are lower if the engine goes a little lean because the transition isn't dialed in perfectly. If you have stock throttle body and upper intake manifold, be sure not to activate the secondary injectors below 30% throttle because the secondary throttle blades are closed and there won't be much air moving through the secondary intake runners.

Good luck, and don't chase big dyno numbers. These cars are lightweight and aerodynamic, they don't need a lot of power to be quick and fun to drive.

 

Dear Friend thank you for you help. My tuner have some experience since he tune some fd over the years. We will use plenty of fuel to keep temperature down with 1000cc primaries and 2000cc secondaries injectors with the help of 2 x 300lph pumps in series. of course in the high we will use a water methanol injection system with 1.2GPH injector from coolingmist.
Though i need for my safety these numbers for pineapple medium street port to know the firing degrees because i dont have these templates anymore and i dont know or remember when the inlet start to open, how long it stays open and when it close. Same for EP4A exhaust port
Anyone have some info i will be thankfull.

 

it just came across that some of the replies weren’t allowing for any consideration that English might not be his first language. Or that he had been a member here since 2005.
.

 

My friend hi. What do you mean about the language? Yes English is not my first language but is there any of those i said before that you didnt get the meaning? Thank you

 

Thanks for the video, I appreciate you. I definitely need to get my car on a dyno so I can dial in the values that are hard to get to by street tuning! the last 15% seems to be the hardest....and getting the megasquirt transitions at the light throttle to not buck.

 

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