B10EGV spark plugs
#52
Rotary Enthusiast
What plug gaps do you guys run on B10EGVs?
I just swapped to them from the NGK BUR7EQ and NGK BUR9EQ that was in there until now, as I was about to turn up the boost to more manly levels and hit the track, but after 2min idling checking for leaks and stuff, it stalled after I blipped the throttle, and think its flooded as it wont start now.
Pulled the plugs and they look like new, unsurprising considering about 2min runtime, but I think I gapped em too tight maybe...
I just swapped to them from the NGK BUR7EQ and NGK BUR9EQ that was in there until now, as I was about to turn up the boost to more manly levels and hit the track, but after 2min idling checking for leaks and stuff, it stalled after I blipped the throttle, and think its flooded as it wont start now.
Pulled the plugs and they look like new, unsurprising considering about 2min runtime, but I think I gapped em too tight maybe...
Chris
#55
I'd grabbed the wrong feeler gauges as I was rushing and have gone and gapped them at .30mm, ie 0.01", what a 'tard!
Cheers for the reply, info here I could never get easily in England, really appreciate it.
Will do it again properly when I get in tonight...
#60
Done, and just taken it out for an hour, a mix of busy town driving and hard to the rev limit acceleration.
Gapped to 0.020" and without doing anything else (to try and de-flood it etc) it started immediately.
Idle sounded (and smelt) more woofley, like it was rich, even though I changed nothing but the plugs.
Once driving, its deffo more responsive and punchy with these plugs, and pulls better at high revs without doubt, what I thought was the rev limiter before was deffo a missfire just before the limiter, and thats now gone. Under hard load, they deffo cope better.
Massive flames on the overrun now, which says to me they arent as efficient when not under load. The guy in the Aston Martin DB7 who tried to race caught a huge flame as I went past him though.
Now and again when putting the clutch down from high revs to stop suddenly at the lights etc it tried to stall, maybe only 1 in 10 times, only caught me out once, but it started again ok. Certainly didnt do that on the stock plugs.
Overall, id say a good improvment, the occasional stalling is a bit ****, but id partly put that down to the cars poor idle control, and on track it wouldnt be an issue anyhow.
Time will tell how long they last.
Hope this helps
Gapped to 0.020" and without doing anything else (to try and de-flood it etc) it started immediately.
Idle sounded (and smelt) more woofley, like it was rich, even though I changed nothing but the plugs.
Once driving, its deffo more responsive and punchy with these plugs, and pulls better at high revs without doubt, what I thought was the rev limiter before was deffo a missfire just before the limiter, and thats now gone. Under hard load, they deffo cope better.
Massive flames on the overrun now, which says to me they arent as efficient when not under load. The guy in the Aston Martin DB7 who tried to race caught a huge flame as I went past him though.
Now and again when putting the clutch down from high revs to stop suddenly at the lights etc it tried to stall, maybe only 1 in 10 times, only caught me out once, but it started again ok. Certainly didnt do that on the stock plugs.
Overall, id say a good improvment, the occasional stalling is a bit ****, but id partly put that down to the cars poor idle control, and on track it wouldnt be an issue anyhow.
Time will tell how long they last.
Hope this helps
Last edited by StavFC; 07-10-09 at 04:31 PM.
#64
The king of the highway!
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/\ and hes right up the street. I think these greddy race plugs are better than the ngk just because the greddy are made for a rotary engine rather than the ngk being a universal spark plug
http://www.wbperformance.com/
tell them james sent you ($120 shipped for the greddy 11 heat range race plugs)
http://www.wbperformance.com/
tell them james sent you ($120 shipped for the greddy 11 heat range race plugs)
#65
Update-
Did around 1000km on the B10EGV no problem, then accidently flooded the engine. Dried them out and got the engine going again, but now missfires sometimes at around 6.5k, especially with the water injection switched on (ive got it rigged to a switch rather than just ign on, so can test stuff easier), presumably this is peak torque, as its fine afterwards all the way to 8k.
They are cheap and worked well till then, so will get some more and see how long they last as I think it was the flood that ruined them...
Did around 1000km on the B10EGV no problem, then accidently flooded the engine. Dried them out and got the engine going again, but now missfires sometimes at around 6.5k, especially with the water injection switched on (ive got it rigged to a switch rather than just ign on, so can test stuff easier), presumably this is peak torque, as its fine afterwards all the way to 8k.
They are cheap and worked well till then, so will get some more and see how long they last as I think it was the flood that ruined them...
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