Anyone using this TO4?
#1
Anyone using this TO4?
http://fcstore.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=1094
I am thinking about buying this one for my S5 TII but I don't know if it is a good turbo or not. I am looking for 350-450whp from the car. If anyone is out there that uses this one from them can you speak up and tell us whats up with it like specs, quality, etc., etc.
Much appreciated
Santiago
I am thinking about buying this one for my S5 TII but I don't know if it is a good turbo or not. I am looking for 350-450whp from the car. If anyone is out there that uses this one from them can you speak up and tell us whats up with it like specs, quality, etc., etc.
Much appreciated
Santiago
#2
Racing is Life.....
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Need to search on t04B
Definitely lots of folks using this turbo - check the 2nd gen forum and also use the search feature using 'to4b'. Don't know about 450rwhp, but the 300 to 400 range has been hit.
Beast
Beast
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (31)
Normally I would tell you to use the search function , but I won't in this case, since people have to ask these questions every once in a while to learn
In short, no I don't think that's a good turbo, read on for the long winded explanation.
If you look at the compressor map that is pictures, they are showing an H3 wheel. This wheel is good for around 350RWHP, and is a usually an excellent choice for a hybrid turbo. IMO, if you want to run an H3 compresor you may as wel build a hybrid, use the stock turbine section/manifold and save $$$'s b/c you won't need an new manifold, oil/water lines, external WG, and new DP.
You are correct that the T04B designation does no imply just one turbo, it's a family... sorft of like a car chassis that you can then swap engines (compressor/turbine wheels) with. If you look at turbonetics.com you can view the compressor maps and see that the H3 is one size smaller than the ever popular 60-1 that most people run for a 400RWHP configuration.
If you want 350-400 at reasonable boost levels and 60-1 wheel will put you in that range between 12 and 15 psi boost.
As for the turbine side "P trim" designates the size and shape adn therefore flow characteristics of the wheel. Generally speaking P trim is recomended for street Rx7's running a full T04 turbo. The large Q trim wheel will flow more on the top end and the expense of a few extra 100 RPM's for spool, and is generally considered a drag racing turbo. The O trim, is smaller than a P, will spool faster, but could be restrictive on the top end. 95% of people will tell you to stick with P trim for your application.
Just to through you off a little there is also the Garrett GTQ turbine wheel. This is the newer GT series of turbine wheels with better efficiencies. The GTQ has been said to spool like a P and flow like a Q... and it also costs several hundred $$'s more.
Turbine housing. I would say always get divided... it's better for spool and top end... if you have a proper manifold to go with it. Turbin A/R... The larger the A/R the more top end at the expense of spool. Smaller A/R's will spool the turbo faster but can choke on the top end. Again, these are all dependant on teh rest of the system, and these are generalities.
I'd go with a 1.0 personally with a P trim wheel. Some will argue a 1.15 is better and others will say to get a .84.
Hope this helps some. If you don't know already you should learn to read compressor maps, that way you can decided for your self what is right... or at least know why you are selecting the turbo that you are choosing. If you need help, letme know, I'll be glad to explain them. Probably should be a stickied thread in this section anyway.
-Chris
In short, no I don't think that's a good turbo, read on for the long winded explanation.
If you look at the compressor map that is pictures, they are showing an H3 wheel. This wheel is good for around 350RWHP, and is a usually an excellent choice for a hybrid turbo. IMO, if you want to run an H3 compresor you may as wel build a hybrid, use the stock turbine section/manifold and save $$$'s b/c you won't need an new manifold, oil/water lines, external WG, and new DP.
You are correct that the T04B designation does no imply just one turbo, it's a family... sorft of like a car chassis that you can then swap engines (compressor/turbine wheels) with. If you look at turbonetics.com you can view the compressor maps and see that the H3 is one size smaller than the ever popular 60-1 that most people run for a 400RWHP configuration.
If you want 350-400 at reasonable boost levels and 60-1 wheel will put you in that range between 12 and 15 psi boost.
As for the turbine side "P trim" designates the size and shape adn therefore flow characteristics of the wheel. Generally speaking P trim is recomended for street Rx7's running a full T04 turbo. The large Q trim wheel will flow more on the top end and the expense of a few extra 100 RPM's for spool, and is generally considered a drag racing turbo. The O trim, is smaller than a P, will spool faster, but could be restrictive on the top end. 95% of people will tell you to stick with P trim for your application.
Just to through you off a little there is also the Garrett GTQ turbine wheel. This is the newer GT series of turbine wheels with better efficiencies. The GTQ has been said to spool like a P and flow like a Q... and it also costs several hundred $$'s more.
Turbine housing. I would say always get divided... it's better for spool and top end... if you have a proper manifold to go with it. Turbin A/R... The larger the A/R the more top end at the expense of spool. Smaller A/R's will spool the turbo faster but can choke on the top end. Again, these are all dependant on teh rest of the system, and these are generalities.
I'd go with a 1.0 personally with a P trim wheel. Some will argue a 1.15 is better and others will say to get a .84.
Hope this helps some. If you don't know already you should learn to read compressor maps, that way you can decided for your self what is right... or at least know why you are selecting the turbo that you are choosing. If you need help, letme know, I'll be glad to explain them. Probably should be a stickied thread in this section anyway.
-Chris
#6
Send me your BMX parts
I'd step up and get into a T60-1.. I have a T60-1 .70 comp. and 1.00 A/R with a large single port and its amazing @ 6000rpm's and up...I don't have time to look at all the guages because the power comes on so fast... Its nifty!! The T04B will get you into the 400 plus range though....
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#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
1987RX7guy: You can find information in the book "Maximum boost" by Corky Bell. There also was an article in SCC that explain how to read a compressor map.
carx7: Thank you for this information. I have been searching for that kind of stuff since a long time. I have a question about the air flow. In the Corky Bell's book they show how to calculate air flow of a pistons engine. How do you calculate the air flow or a rotary engine ? What is the air flow of a stock TII engine and for a streetport engine ?
Thanks!
carx7: Thank you for this information. I have been searching for that kind of stuff since a long time. I have a question about the air flow. In the Corky Bell's book they show how to calculate air flow of a pistons engine. How do you calculate the air flow or a rotary engine ? What is the air flow of a stock TII engine and for a streetport engine ?
Thanks!
#11
I also bought the To4b off of the internet, i took it to my local turbo builder and he said the same thing. Basically would cost more to modify the shaft (bushing and wheel plus cover)for a larger wheel than just purchasing a better turbo. Its a decent turbo but like previously stated if your going through the work of T4 manifold and coolant lines, spend alittle extra to get what your looking for.
Kind Regards
mike
Kind Regards
mike
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