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stage 3 clutch
8lbs fidanza flywheel
pilot/needle bearing
ss braided clutch line
custom abs delete
cross drilled slotted rotors
hawk pads
ss braided brake lines
coilovers 39 dampening w/camber plates
polyurethane bushing kit
cusco front/rear top strut bars
MSD 10mm wires
p/s a/c delete
koyo radiator
flex-a-lite e-fan with thermostat controller
Godspeed FMIC
3 inch intercooler piping with t-bolt couplers
To4s turbo oil cooled .65/1.15
aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter
4x750cc denso low impendance injectors
255 lph wallboro pump
synapse blow off valve
synapse wastegate 50mm
dual v-belt w/alt pulley
oddessey dry cell battery relocated
racing beat FCD
custom v-band 3 inch down pipe
xs turbo manifold
aeromotive/earls fittings and teflon braided lines
OMP blocked off / emission removed blocked off
bypass heater core
Short shifter
racing beat rsr black canister

**Any recommendation as in ECU, other suspension parts, boost controller, gauges?**

Questions- Since i got my omp blocked off and im running a aeromotive 10micron fuel filter, would it affect my engine and fuel filter if i run premix?

 

Clock your center housing so the oil flows from top to bottom. Sideways the way it is will create problems.

ECU? whatever your tuner is comfortable with. Beyond that you need to plan what options you're going to want such as sequential injection/ignition as most low end ECU's are powerful enough for full seq. Also if you want the ECU to control things like boost, AI etc your going to need to make sure there are enough inputs and outputs to drive those items.

Also, fuel filter will be fine.

 

Might want to look into some sort of heat shield for the exhaust/turbo. Not necessary but nice to have.

 

Also, you might have trouble down the road with that XS power turbo. Looks very much like the SSAC ones that were floating around ebay for a while.

 

Your going to want to go with alot bigger secondaries, like 1600cc. Also 3in is a little big on the intercooler piping for that turbo and might hurt spool. I would go with 2.5.

 

hmm im aiming at 300-325 hp conservatively. so a would an r-tek 2.0 ecu do with a wideband o2 sensor?

 

I would get a full stand-alone. It will be one of the best investments. I went from a safc to a power fc and it was like night and day, just on the base map.

 

your hotside A/R is larger than optimum for your setup, it's just going to hurt spool and the reduced top end restriction is not that big of a deal for the low 300 range. You could have gone with a .82 hotside. In fact, if all you wanted was that little power, you could've gotten away with a stage 2 hybrid.

 

How is your fuel system routed? I would get a garrett turbo if thats an XS power unit as mentioned.

 

my fuel system is routed like on fc3s.org on there schematic. Yea its a cheap turbo =( i will probably upgrade it later if i can find a good deal on a garrett turbo. As stand alone im thinking of either microtech or haltech. Which one would you guys prefer? Here is sum new picture update enjoy...

 

That fuel system routing looks wrong to me. The Y feed should be going to each fuel rail...

 

Clean. Get a Power FC!

 

It won't affect the filter. Not running it would certainly affect the engine...

 

fuel system y block either or its a straight through design on the fpr to the other side of the fuel log....it should show equal pressure adjustment made if needed

 

Maybe there are different ways of routing the fuel but this is the way I did it.

 

that is true, but you've defeated the purpose of running a parallel fuel system. You're still running in series that way, no reason to use that Y splitter, its doing absolutely nothing. Just trying to help you out...

 

anyone got pictures of a parallel system hooked up? wouldnt the pressure be the same running parallel & series?

 

Here is a picture. I also posted the schematic.^

 

jcfrx7 has the correct layout for a parallel fuel system. However, it is not necessary for reliable power. I ran mine in series and had no problem getting enough fuel for 386rwhp.

 

current update had to clean it up a bit =D

 

Looking good. Now lets get that thing up and running so we can go for a cruise.

I don't know much about microtech but the haltech e8 has been pretty good to me. Everyone says get what your tuner can tune but what if your the tuner?

If I were you and still had the stock ecu I'd rtek 2.1 with a wideband and keep boost low with those 750's 10psi. Or you could end up in my boat with half tuned e8 I can't drive and no tuners in the bay. Not saying don't go full standalone but it's not as easy as people say.

Do the standalone when you have time and a chunk of change. Honestly it looks like a full day of work and your moving and grooving. my 2 cents

For the record I ran a rtek 1.5 with pretty similar setup to yours all last summer no probs.This summer haltech e8 and no tuner she has a nice cool spot in the back of the garage.