Aeromotive pump and filter Ques..
11-07-02, 09:40 PM
#1
Aeromotive pump and filter Ques..
Is it Okay to mount the Aeromotive filter directly to the Aeromotive 1000 Fuel Pump?
I have the pump in a good place under the car, and if this is okay, it will save me some fittings and a headache.
Also, is there an easier way to make braided lines and fittings? It's such a pain in the *** to put a fitting on the braided hose with steel wires all over the place.
I tape the hose with electrical tape and cut with a metal cutting wheel, but it's still difficult.
I have the pump in a good place under the car, and if this is okay, it will save me some fittings and a headache.
Also, is there an easier way to make braided lines and fittings? It's such a pain in the *** to put a fitting on the braided hose with steel wires all over the place.
I tape the hose with electrical tape and cut with a metal cutting wheel, but it's still difficult.
11-08-02, 01:47 AM
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
yes you can mount the filter directly to the pump.... if the filter is 40 micron it goes before the pump.... anything higher goes after the pump or when the filter clogs the pump overheats and burns up the pump
11-08-02, 08:49 AM
#3
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You might want to try masking tape instead. Electrical tape has a tendency to slide and slip when you begin to cut into it. I've tried both and had more success with masking tape. How many rounds are you wrapping the hosing? And watch out for the flying stainless steel pieces when cutting with a metal cutting wheel 
.
.
11-08-02, 10:10 AM
#4
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it takes me a total of about 40seconds to put a fitting on a hose. use STRAPPING tape. if you notice when you buy sections of hose, this is what is on there. i also tried electrical tape, but quickly learned. i also use that earls lube.
as far as the filter goes. get the O-rings for a -10 fitting. you can get a pack of 10 from summit for about $9 or you can get them individualy from McMaster-Carr
as far as the filter goes. get the O-rings for a -10 fitting. you can get a pack of 10 from summit for about $9 or you can get them individualy from McMaster-Carr
11-08-02, 10:20 AM
#5
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AEI-15623
i believe that is the part number for the pack of 10 from summit. i will look in the McMaster catalog later, i dont feel like getting up from my desk.
i believe that is the part number for the pack of 10 from summit. i will look in the McMaster catalog later, i dont feel like getting up from my desk.
11-08-02, 04:08 PM
#6
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
AEI-15623
i believe that is the part number for the pack of 10 from summit. i will look in the McMaster catalog later, i dont feel like getting up from my desk.
AEI-15623
i believe that is the part number for the pack of 10 from summit. i will look in the McMaster catalog later, i dont feel like getting up from my desk.
Products > Filters > Product Page
Carburated and EFI Fuel Filter:
Carburated and EFI Fuel Filter
For 200-1,000 HP applications - these filters will actually save you money.
We offer several options: 10-micron protection with a throwaway paper element (P/N 12301) or a cleanable 100-micron stainless steel element (P/N 12304).
(P/N 12303) Designed to be used with the 11203 Street Rod Fuel Pump, features a 40 micron replaceable element, 3/8" pipe thread inlet and outlet. Compact design, 3.5" long x 1.25" Diameter. A Type II bright dip anodized finish provides protection and good looks.
Aeromotive's advanced flow-through designs feature high quality components and unequalled performance.
Less than 0.15-PSI pressure drop at a flow rate of 1,200 lbs. per hour - enough fuel to support 2,400 HP.
CNC-machined from 6061-T651 aircraft grade aluminum alloy.
Part No. Description
12301 Filter with 10-micron paper element
12304 Filter with cleanable 100-micron stainless steel element
12303 Filter with 40-micron element
Carburated and EFI Fuel Filter:
Carburated and EFI Fuel Filter
For 200-1,000 HP applications - these filters will actually save you money.
We offer several options: 10-micron protection with a throwaway paper element (P/N 12301) or a cleanable 100-micron stainless steel element (P/N 12304).
(P/N 12303) Designed to be used with the 11203 Street Rod Fuel Pump, features a 40 micron replaceable element, 3/8" pipe thread inlet and outlet. Compact design, 3.5" long x 1.25" Diameter. A Type II bright dip anodized finish provides protection and good looks.
Aeromotive's advanced flow-through designs feature high quality components and unequalled performance.
Less than 0.15-PSI pressure drop at a flow rate of 1,200 lbs. per hour - enough fuel to support 2,400 HP.
CNC-machined from 6061-T651 aircraft grade aluminum alloy.
Part No. Description
12301 Filter with 10-micron paper element
12304 Filter with cleanable 100-micron stainless steel element
12303 Filter with 40-micron element
11-08-02, 04:14 PM
#7
Lives on the Forum
yeah, i have the 100micron one attached directly to the pump w/ a union fitting, and the 10 a little further down the line. but there should be no problem placing them both on the pump. got any pics of how you mounted it? where did you place it? the subframe?
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11-08-02, 05:51 PM
#11
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Looks good Alex! You put your pump in the same place I did (probably because it's the only real place you can mount such a damn big pump like that). I bet that bucket of "goodies" cost you a arm and a leg. Makes me glad I'm in the fluid power buisness, all the steel fittings I need from work
I just have one recomendation, make/get some rubber insulators to mount inbetween the pump and the aluminum plate/bracket you made. If you don't have any vibration dampning I bet that pump will rattle your teeth out
Lookin good!
I just have one recomendation, make/get some rubber insulators to mount inbetween the pump and the aluminum plate/bracket you made. If you don't have any vibration dampning I bet that pump will rattle your teeth out
Lookin good!
11-09-02, 06:37 AM
#13
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i dont think so. the presure is much higher in a efi system. i was going to use hard lines from moroso but was talked out of it due to the fittings not being able to fit tight enough. line is not that much to just do it right.
looks good directfreak. my home puter is down at the moment and i can only take my pics off my camera from there. i will post my pics when i can. i agree w/ the rubber insulators for mounting, although it looks as if there is one on the left side :confused but not the right? isnt that setup gonna sit kinda low? nice "bucket of goodies"...mine looked like that at one point. still have a bunch left over since i changed my mind on how to route everythign like 4 times...
how did you do your return? please check the other thread you started about "sump in tank" or whatever it was titled. i am debating the return. have any input?
-Keith
looks good directfreak. my home puter is down at the moment and i can only take my pics off my camera from there. i will post my pics when i can. i agree w/ the rubber insulators for mounting, although it looks as if there is one on the left side :confused but not the right? isnt that setup gonna sit kinda low? nice "bucket of goodies"...mine looked like that at one point. still have a bunch left over since i changed my mind on how to route everythign like 4 times...
how did you do your return? please check the other thread you started about "sump in tank" or whatever it was titled. i am debating the return. have any input?
-Keith
11-09-02, 09:34 AM
#14
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Originally posted by spartiatis
do you think that the stock fb fuel lines should work with an efi conversion using aeromotive 1000 pump and other related parts?
do you think that the stock fb fuel lines should work with an efi conversion using aeromotive 1000 pump and other related parts?
hope that helps.
Cam
11-09-02, 09:45 AM
#15
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yeah, the lines will hold, but i was told that "tube nuts" wont. is this wrong?
and yes the lines are small. i believe you are right. 5/16 or equal to a -4 line.
and yes the lines are small. i believe you are right. 5/16 or equal to a -4 line.
11-09-02, 10:03 AM
#16
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Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
yeah, the lines will hold, but i was told that "tube nuts" wont. is this wrong?
and yes the lines are small. i believe you are right. 5/16 or equal to a -4 line.
yeah, the lines will hold, but i was told that "tube nuts" wont. is this wrong?
and yes the lines are small. i believe you are right. 5/16 or equal to a -4 line.
the -4 means 4 16ths or 1/4".So 5/16 would require a -5 tube nut and sleve which aren't very common. For my 5/16" return I just used spring clamps because there isn't any real pressure but for my 3/8 (-6) pressure line I flaired/used tube nuts and sleves.
didnt realize that. wow. make sence now. thanks. 
11-09-02, 10:11 AM
#18
I originally posted this in the 1stGen Turbo thread sticky, but I believe it applies here.
On the GSL-SE's, the stock pick up is 5/8, and the return 3/8.
I chucked all the lines, and am only using the stock fuel-pick-up and the stock return fitting.
Anyway, I am using a -10AN feed connected to the stock fuel Pickup, and a -8 Return all the way to the stock return.
I took the tank down and am cleaning it and sealing it to make sure it has no problems.
My Fuel Pump has 4 large rubber isolaters at the base, and the aluminum plate that it's bolted on to, has rubber washers on both sides to prevent noise and rattling.
I was a bitch to mount, but I think the Aluminum plate was the best way, as it could finally mount flush.
Originally posted by Directfreak
Hey guys,
I will add to these later with my own pics, but check this out:
This page will show you the differences between a 12A Gas tank and a GSL-SE gas tank.
Gas Tank Differences
You will note how the the SE tank has a "baffle" around it. Thus keeping the fuel pick-up tube from catching air and sloshing around.
You can also see that the SE Fuel pick-up is HUGE, (inside diameter larger than a -10 fuel line). Crispeed had told me all along that the SE does not need to be sumped like the other FB's. Now I see why. Built in Baffles, Oversized Fuel Pickup tube. Makes me wonder if they did all this for the Turbo 12A's in Japan.
If I recall correctly, the funny thing is I don't think the N/A 2nd Gens have such "Turbo Friendly" features..
Now you have picture proof of why I decided to NOT sump my GSL-SE fuel tank like this:
Hey guys,
I will add to these later with my own pics, but check this out:
This page will show you the differences between a 12A Gas tank and a GSL-SE gas tank.
Gas Tank Differences
You will note how the the SE tank has a "baffle" around it. Thus keeping the fuel pick-up tube from catching air and sloshing around.
You can also see that the SE Fuel pick-up is HUGE, (inside diameter larger than a -10 fuel line). Crispeed had told me all along that the SE does not need to be sumped like the other FB's. Now I see why. Built in Baffles, Oversized Fuel Pickup tube. Makes me wonder if they did all this for the Turbo 12A's in Japan.
If I recall correctly, the funny thing is I don't think the N/A 2nd Gens have such "Turbo Friendly" features..
Now you have picture proof of why I decided to NOT sump my GSL-SE fuel tank like this:
On the GSL-SE's, the stock pick up is 5/8, and the return 3/8.
I chucked all the lines, and am only using the stock fuel-pick-up and the stock return fitting.
Anyway, I am using a -10AN feed connected to the stock fuel Pickup, and a -8 Return all the way to the stock return.
I took the tank down and am cleaning it and sealing it to make sure it has no problems.
My Fuel Pump has 4 large rubber isolaters at the base, and the aluminum plate that it's bolted on to, has rubber washers on both sides to prevent noise and rattling.
I was a bitch to mount, but I think the Aluminum plate was the best way, as it could finally mount flush.
Last edited by Directfreak; 11-09-02 at 10:14 AM.
11-09-02, 10:28 AM
#19
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In responce to above not all 12a tanks look like that 83 one pictured. In 84-85 all the tanks are the same, 13b or 12a but the 13b cars did get the larger "top" or whatever that cap is called that has the lines on it that goes into the tank. So I just took my 13b "top" and put it into my tank that I had from a 85 GS that I had. So now I made a "GSL-SE tank" I guess.
11-09-02, 11:01 AM
#21
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Now that you say somthing I'm not sure if it had the baffles but I'm guessing that they made all the 84-85 tanks the same because the externals were. I was under the impresson that the only difference was the top or line size
I wish my tank was still out of the car I'd take a look inside.
I wish my tank was still out of the car I'd take a look inside.
Last edited by setzep; 11-09-02 at 11:05 AM.
11-11-02, 01:08 PM
#22
Update:
I ran a straight -8AN line to the Regulator, which will go straight to the tank as a return. I also ran a -10 Feed line from the Fuel Pump. I have to admit, the braided lines look oh so damn nice!!
Now I have to bring down the tank, clean it out and then run the lines to it.
I ran a straight -8AN line to the Regulator, which will go straight to the tank as a return. I also ran a -10 Feed line from the Fuel Pump. I have to admit, the braided lines look oh so damn nice!!
Now I have to bring down the tank, clean it out and then run the lines to it.
11-11-02, 08:32 PM
#23
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
i dont know what type of racing your planning on doing... but if its drag racing and you try to get on a "NHRA" track they won't let you!! the "NHRA" rulebook states that you canot mount any component of the fuel system on the firewall !! sec. # 17 general regulations ..#1-5 ,page 151 . they said its a fire hazard, [clutch or flywheel breakage] why didn't you run hardline from the pump??
11-11-02, 09:01 PM
#24
Originally posted by 680RWHP12A
i dont know what type of racing your planning on doing... but if its drag racing and you try to get on a "NHRA" track they won't let you!! the "NHRA" rulebook states that you canot mount any component of the fuel system on the firewall !! sec. # 17 general regulations ..#1-5 ,page 151 . they said its a fire hazard, [clutch or flywheel breakage] why didn't you run hardline from the pump??
i dont know what type of racing your planning on doing... but if its drag racing and you try to get on a "NHRA" track they won't let you!! the "NHRA" rulebook states that you canot mount any component of the fuel system on the firewall !! sec. # 17 general regulations ..#1-5 ,page 151 . they said its a fire hazard, [clutch or flywheel breakage] why didn't you run hardline from the pump??
1:5 Fuel Systems
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) cars, and on opposite side of flywheel/bellhousing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars. Fuelpressure-gauge isolators, with steel-braided line, may be mounted on firewall.
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) cars, and on opposite side of flywheel/bellhousing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars. Fuelpressure-gauge isolators, with steel-braided line, may be mounted on firewall.
Either way, I am not trying to break any records. My car will be for street use.
Last edited by Directfreak; 11-11-02 at 09:11 PM.
11-11-02, 10:25 PM
#25
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally posted by Directfreak
Update:
I ran a straight -8AN line to the Regulator, which will go straight to the tank as a return. I also ran a -10 Feed line from the Fuel Pump. I have to admit, the braided lines look oh so damn nice!!
Now I have to bring down the tank, clean it out and then run the lines to it.
Update:
I ran a straight -8AN line to the Regulator, which will go straight to the tank as a return. I also ran a -10 Feed line from the Fuel Pump. I have to admit, the braided lines look oh so damn nice!!
Now I have to bring down the tank, clean it out and then run the lines to it.
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) cars, and on opposite side of flywheel/bellhousing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars. Fuelpressure-gauge isolators, with steel-braided line, may be mounted on firewall.
on a mazda 6" in front of the bellhousing is NOT the firewall!!!! thats by the strut tower!!!!
what about the fuel pressure regulator , it cant be mounted to the firewall!!!! just tring to help
please read the rulebook carefully!!! its made to SAVE YOUR LIFE, even if your not planning on taking your car to the track ,the NHRA rulebook has good guidelines to go by when building your car...