Well that's just stupid! lol

 

In an effort to try and compile everyone's feedback so that i can go back and discuss my tune without sounding like an idiot, what are the biggest problems with the maps that i posted that perhaps the tuner should address? maybe bullet point style might help.

From what i've gathered so far, i have:

- default timing map
- boost setting 1 at 14psi dangerously close to fuel cut
- idle settings at 1000rpm for no reason
- split in boost

honestly, none of these things make any sense to me, so if Banzai-Racing or mono4lamar could elaborate a little on what these mean, it might help me communicate with the tuner a little more effectively.

Thanks again for everyones help and feedback.

 

Find a different tuner, you do not want to give this person another chance to blow your engine. All the fuel corrections were done very poorly and with that said your dyno sheet still shows you dangerously lean.

What size injectors do you have installed?

 

550 Primaries and 1680 Secondaries (this is what i was told came with the car. I have not visually confirmed this myself since i got the car a month ago)

 

Your tuner has them in as 550/1500, yet another reason why it looks like a bunch of the tuning was done with the commander

 

How big of a difference would that make in the tune?

I was there when the guy was tuning my car, and it did appear as if he had the FC Edit program running on a separate workstation that was plugged into the PFC and that appears to be where he made all the changes. but i'm not too familiar with the tuning process so i can't say for sure how he made the changes.

i wish it were as simple as just find another tuner, but apparently, good (reliable) tuners are few and far between. I'm not even sure what other tuner in my area i'd be able to trust.

The tuner copied the PFC map file onto my USB stick after the tune was done...giving him the benefit of the doubt, maybe he copied the wrong file? The file did have my name on it though, but perhaps it was an earlier version of the map?

is there some way to extract the map directly from my PFC (without the Datalogit since i don't have one)?

 

Need a DL or Apexi Pro Software.

You can check your injector sizes, boost setting, and crappy PIM adjustments right on the commander.

PFC instructions http://www.banzai-racing.com/store_i...werFC_FD3S.pdf

 

Pro-tip:

When getting your car tuned on a Dynojet, ask the operator to provide the run files. These files can be opened in the Dynojet WinPEP7 software, available free on the website. You can post them here as well. It allows you to make more readable charts of your dyno plots, and you can play around with the smoothing and correction factors.

 

that's great advice...thanks! i'll keep that in mind for next time.

 

The moral of this story:
Do not have someone tune your car unless they are known to be very experienced with rotary engines and that this can be verified on the forum first.

Even some good and well know rotary drag race turners, are not good at street tuning.

 

the fan temps couldn't have been touched simply with the hand controller, so maybe multiple hands tuned it..

 

You probably dont want to ruin someones reputation but i would really like to know who tuned your car so the rest of the people on here dont get screwed over as well.

 

I was in and out of the dyno room because i had my 4 year old son with me and he didn't like the noise, but from what i observed, there was only ever one guy tuning the car from what appeared to be an FC editing software on a Windows workstation. Also, i know for a fact that before my tuning session, the fans didn't turn on until temps hit 100 C.

 

PM'd you

 

most common size for the T3 is .69 which is a peak power robber for rotary engines. rotaries need about an additional 30% on the exhaust A/R size relative to most piston engine setups.

 

I'm still learning here, but if I had to evaluate this tune I'd say the ignition leading looks pretty reasonable, but the fuel map isn't smooth nor is the trailing. AFR's on the dyno looked rock solid though so the transition to full boost is what would be in question? Doesn't look professional per say but doesn't look horrid either?

 

Contact Enzo, he is in your area nd will take care of you.

 

The T3 for the GT35R is available in .63, .82 & 1.06, then there is a .78 T3 divided

I ran the GT35R with the T3 1.06 for years and made great power. If the turbine housing is as large in diameter as the compressor you have the 1.06 http://www.banzai-racing.com/Efini/e...y_06-21-07.jpg

 

not sure if any of these images will help with identifying the turbine A/R

 

Pretty sute that is a 1.06 from the pic.

 

If your near Speed 1, have Brian tune it and call it a day. The shop has great communication (easy to schedule) and Brian is a great tuner. I had a bad tune that he cleaned up really nice.

Can you pm me the tuner? I wonder if its the same jackass that I used before Brian.

Also, are you 100% sure the motor is ported?

 

It is a 1.06 the .82 is much smaller, here it is the T4 footprint , but the volute is the same

 

I just re-read and see you have a cat... 350+ rwhp at 14 psi with a T3 hotside and a cat actually doesn't sound off to me. The cat alone can be robbing you of 40+ peak hp. Another pound or two of boost on top of that and I think 400+ whp is easily attainable on pump.

Given all the negative comments about the tune, are you sure you posted the 'after' map and not the 'before'? I'd be surprised if any reasonable tunner would tune like banzai is referencing.

 

I have the 1.06 with my blue printed stock ports and port matched intake.
Great spool, great low to high rpm torque. Minimum exhaust restriction makes it a good choice.

 

Planning on building up a 13b capable of 400-500hp what turbo should I get