10* plugs with resistor......any?
Just go to http://www.sparkplugs.com/ and search!
Well I thought I would post back my results of using the NGK R7420-10. I actually used the Identical Greddy plugs as they are cheaper. I picked mine up for $116 shipped(4), Which is the best price I've seen anyone get them for.
I replaced my B9 EGVS which were only like 6k miles old or so, the engine was missing a little more but it still ran and started fine. I could tell I was having more misfiring at higher RPMS also. when I pulled the plugs it was apparent they definitely needed replaced. They were not pretty. I'm also glad I went with a colder plug I could tell they were on the hot side for my setup at this point.
Before replacing the plugs I started the car and ran it up to operating temp, idle was around 800-850 RPM, and AFR's around 13-13.3. I did a couple Full boost runs and the AFR's were right around 11.0 to 10.9 in the higher rpms. When I changed the plugs the idle was improved, it went up to about 900 the idle AFR went to 13.5-13.8 i then added some fuel and got it down to a solid 13 and idle went up another 50 RPMS and was much smoother. Full boost runs yielded a sold 11.1 all the way to redline. The car definitely feels snappier and normal driving is smoother and more crisp. The idle is smoother then its ever been. I can't be certain they gained power over new EGV's but it didn't lose any power, and I think once I start raising the boost more these will be better to have.
Obviously the test is not a good comparison because it's going from old to new plugs, but the B9EGV's did not last me long at all. If these greddy plugs last as long as people say then that's reason enough for me. Even if it works out the same in the long run as far as cost, the convenience of not changing those pain in the *** plugs all the time is very nice. I used to be able to swap plugs without much issue with the elbow and everything still in place, but my arm is now apparently quite a bit bigger cause I had hell fitting in there.
I replaced my B9 EGVS which were only like 6k miles old or so, the engine was missing a little more but it still ran and started fine. I could tell I was having more misfiring at higher RPMS also. when I pulled the plugs it was apparent they definitely needed replaced. They were not pretty. I'm also glad I went with a colder plug I could tell they were on the hot side for my setup at this point.
Before replacing the plugs I started the car and ran it up to operating temp, idle was around 800-850 RPM, and AFR's around 13-13.3. I did a couple Full boost runs and the AFR's were right around 11.0 to 10.9 in the higher rpms. When I changed the plugs the idle was improved, it went up to about 900 the idle AFR went to 13.5-13.8 i then added some fuel and got it down to a solid 13 and idle went up another 50 RPMS and was much smoother. Full boost runs yielded a sold 11.1 all the way to redline. The car definitely feels snappier and normal driving is smoother and more crisp. The idle is smoother then its ever been. I can't be certain they gained power over new EGV's but it didn't lose any power, and I think once I start raising the boost more these will be better to have.
Obviously the test is not a good comparison because it's going from old to new plugs, but the B9EGV's did not last me long at all. If these greddy plugs last as long as people say then that's reason enough for me. Even if it works out the same in the long run as far as cost, the convenience of not changing those pain in the *** plugs all the time is very nice. I used to be able to swap plugs without much issue with the elbow and everything still in place, but my arm is now apparently quite a bit bigger cause I had hell fitting in there.
Well I thought I would post back my results of using the NGK R7420-10. I actually used the Identical Greddy plugs as they are cheaper. I picked mine up for $116 shipped(4), Which is the best price I've seen anyone get them for.
I replaced my B9 EGVS which were only like 6k miles old or so, the engine was missing a little more but it still ran and started fine. I could tell I was having more misfiring at higher RPMS also. when I pulled the plugs it was apparent they definitely needed replaced. They were not pretty. I'm also glad I went with a colder plug I could tell they were on the hot side for my setup at this point.
Before replacing the plugs I started the car and ran it up to operating temp, idle was around 800-850 RPM, and AFR's around 13-13.3. I did a couple Full boost runs and the AFR's were right around 11.0 to 10.9 in the higher rpms. When I changed the plugs the idle was improved, it went up to about 900 the idle AFR went to 13.5-13.8 i then added some fuel and got it down to a solid 13 and idle went up another 50 RPMS and was much smoother. Full boost runs yielded a sold 11.1 all the way to redline. The car definitely feels snappier and normal driving is smoother and more crisp. The idle is smoother then its ever been. I can't be certain they gained power over new EGV's but it didn't lose any power, and I think once I start raising the boost more these will be better to have.
Obviously the test is not a good comparison because it's going from old to new plugs, but the B9EGV's did not last me long at all. If these greddy plugs last as long as people say then that's reason enough for me. Even if it works out the same in the long run as far as cost, the convenience of not changing those pain in the *** plugs all the time is very nice. I used to be able to swap plugs without much issue with the elbow and everything still in place, but my arm is now apparently quite a bit bigger cause I had hell fitting in there.
I replaced my B9 EGVS which were only like 6k miles old or so, the engine was missing a little more but it still ran and started fine. I could tell I was having more misfiring at higher RPMS also. when I pulled the plugs it was apparent they definitely needed replaced. They were not pretty. I'm also glad I went with a colder plug I could tell they were on the hot side for my setup at this point.
Before replacing the plugs I started the car and ran it up to operating temp, idle was around 800-850 RPM, and AFR's around 13-13.3. I did a couple Full boost runs and the AFR's were right around 11.0 to 10.9 in the higher rpms. When I changed the plugs the idle was improved, it went up to about 900 the idle AFR went to 13.5-13.8 i then added some fuel and got it down to a solid 13 and idle went up another 50 RPMS and was much smoother. Full boost runs yielded a sold 11.1 all the way to redline. The car definitely feels snappier and normal driving is smoother and more crisp. The idle is smoother then its ever been. I can't be certain they gained power over new EGV's but it didn't lose any power, and I think once I start raising the boost more these will be better to have.
Obviously the test is not a good comparison because it's going from old to new plugs, but the B9EGV's did not last me long at all. If these greddy plugs last as long as people say then that's reason enough for me. Even if it works out the same in the long run as far as cost, the convenience of not changing those pain in the *** plugs all the time is very nice. I used to be able to swap plugs without much issue with the elbow and everything still in place, but my arm is now apparently quite a bit bigger cause I had hell fitting in there.
I didn't gap them, just used the gap they came with. I did look at them to visually make sure they all looked the same. They look like they would be a little harder to gap then a standard plug as the ground strap is more under the top of the ceramic. I knew my cheap plug gapper wouldn't fit so i just left them.
yea the NGK race plugs have a finnicky end. I wouldn't go so far as to say you DON"T NEED to gap them though. Always check, always....
Who knows who's been kicking those boxes aroudn in a warehouse. Sometimes they don't come with the little cardboard "protector" around the head, and the gap could be closed significantly as a result.
Who knows who's been kicking those boxes aroudn in a warehouse. Sometimes they don't come with the little cardboard "protector" around the head, and the gap could be closed significantly as a result.
I had run B9/10EGVs for years with good results. Have also tried Iridiums BR9/10EIX but the idle suffered for some reason. This is running 320-400 whp.
Then I went to R6725-9/10 and the engine runs better at all rpms and all loads. This is my plug of choice now. The BEST does cost more and works better!
TWOKRX7 backs me up on this as he is the one who told me to try them.
Then I went to R6725-9/10 and the engine runs better at all rpms and all loads. This is my plug of choice now. The BEST does cost more and works better!
TWOKRX7 backs me up on this as he is the one who told me to try them.
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HalifaxFD
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May 9, 2016 07:06 PM
