I had a factory clutch type overheat and wear out while I was driving once. It kinda sucked... I pulled the ebrake to initiate and instead of initiating like it had the last 20 times at that same corner that same day, the car just went straight. The car just did one wheel burnouts the rest of the day after that.

Weldeds do the same **** every time.

 

i run both and use the single for most of the adjustment.. then dial in the individual ones...

 

What do you dial, 1-800-AWE-SOME?

 

exactly!

 

Does anyone have any input on the super now links? They go were the indiv. adjusters would go but there just solid links no adjustment (link to part http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Supe...C3S-RX-7-50168 )

 

What are your thoughts on strut bars?

 

Im running a Full Race welded T2 diff. My bro has a Forrest/Full Race welded T2 diff. Mine is gutted and ****, my bros was done in like 5 minutes.

**** feels good. i like the different pinion ratio compared to the non turbo pinion.
Do it!!!!!!

 

You dudes should get real LSDs!

 

It's my oppinion, that having adjustment, is better than NOT having adjustment, as you may want to add/remove camber, depending on track conditions/layout/alignment...

Kinch: Strut bars can come in handy, if you have no other chassis stiffening mods, such as a cage, chassis gusseting, stitch welding, etc... Just make sure the parts you get, are doing what they are supposed to be, rather than just looking the part. Most "adjustable" strut bars will not have the torsional strength to actually stiffen the chassis. Do your research!

CJ: Welded diffs are good for doing 1st and 2nd gear donuts, but not for anything high speed... I'm sure these guys will figure out the worth of a ENGINEERED LSD, if they "stick around" long enough.

 

the camber will be adjusted with the center link... basically it simplfies camber adjustment so instead of adjusting 3 things you only adjust one. i guess if for some reason the camber differs from side to side the individuals are good (answered my own question lol)

 

would you recommend taking the front and rear sway bar off an FD for drifting?

 

Aaron Losey is still running a welded diff in his LS1 s13 and says he actually prefers them in some situations over a clutch type lsd. And his events are almost always high speed, he seems to do pretty well in competition.


Don't know if the same thing translates to an FC though seeing as how the overall design of the car is different.

 

Yes, Aaron is the exception. Not the rule.

He does well because hes an awesome driver lol. I dont care what any of you do, but a real LSD is a pantload better than having a diff thats 100% locked all the time.

 

yes! start off with the rear, see how it feels... then try the front... i do know of several people that drift fd's that do not run sways...

usually the camber does vary from side to side.. therefore the individual adjusters are valuable.. also depending on track layout... i.e. Irwindale

there are a couple pro's the run welded diff's as well...

rhy's millen in his solstice.. they also had on in dai's gto... white boy john also runs one in his f22 powered corolla... we're not saying that it won't work, but there are obviously "better" options..

basically when you drive a car with a well setup diff and then drive one with a welded... you'll feel the difference.

 

Also be careful with LOW cars running no rear camber, it would be wise to only use stock, mazdacomp or bearings as the individual adjusters can cause binding issues with stiffer bushings.

 

I do like an aggressive clutch type diff more than a welded (I had a kaaz 2way in my old ae86), I was just throwing examples out there. I am running a welded right now but when I switch to a T2 drivetrain I plan on going with a clutch type.

Not sure on a 2way or 1.5 though.

 

Out of all the diff options OS Giken takes the cake IMO. I have driven on Kazz, Tomei welded and some others -just found the OS unit smoother and more predictable. I'm also a fan of the 1.5 way in the FC

 

Thanks for the strut bar reply, I already have front and rears, was debating whether or not to keep them. What do you guys do for interior stuff: Seat, steering wheels, etc?

 

I've also heard that the OS unit is one of the best out there, so that's the one I've been looking at. I've had a KAAZ before and want to try something different.

That's all hearsay though. Justin, Dave, and CJ (as well as a few others) all have first hand experience so I think their advice is pretty crucial to this thread.

 

Leave me out of it.

Just listen to JTP dudes.

 

I'm also a fan of the OS-Giken super lock diffs.. the ability to tune it is amazing, from initial torque setting to lock timing it's amazing... i played around with the OS diff alot in 08 during the formula d season and found a setting that's pretty damn good.. and i think it definitely improved my driving by the end of the season. (i'm not just saying this because the sponsor me either.. lol) it's definitely the best diff i've ever driven on(driven mazdaspeed, tomei, kaaz, welded)

i'm currently also running a OS 1.5 although i have had it setup as a 2way, but feel the 1.5 is much faster through higher speed courses

see above!

 

i have a tomei trax 2-way. i really like it; its not super clunky but engages really firmly. pretty quiet, too.

 

Tomei is basically a rebadged Kaaz, but to a different spec for BAT, mostly through the addition of plates for each application...

Usually pretty clunky, so that's interesting...

 

after using kaaz oil in it, I switched to Shell Rotella 80/90 and that non synthetic ford friction modifier and it made it a lot quieter.

 

ATS deftforce is the jambox dudes.