Could you use a drag link or a set of 2 adjustable 2 headed tie rods to fix the rear camber? It would seem that a beefy (1 1/2" - 2") tie rod would do it, or a drag link across the entire rear. the drag link may allow too much play though. Any thoughts guys?

 

versus rear camber adjusters?

 

can you get rear camber adjuster for fc? i havnt found any

 

single bar, and individual links

http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm


http://mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm

 

cant find the racing beat one, but the ones on mazdatrix look good. which should i avoid and which are good? i need maximum camber adjustment

 

Those are the lateral links and changing the length of them would change toe not camber.

 

www.racingbeat.com search by part number (top left i believe) part number is 14008

 

ahh, thank you.
anyone have experiance with the $70 ebay version

 

Also available

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...roducts_id=475

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=80

 

MMR has them as well

I'd stay away from the ebay crap (duh) also go for the individual arms not the center arm.

 

I have had the eGay one on my car for almost 2 years now with no problems. You can also get the 2 individual links from Mazdatrix if you want to be able to adjust one side more than the other. A few cars need all 3 as excess negative camber is common on the fc.

 

how much adjustment do you get?

 

i got the tcsportline one


its a quick fix. what it does is change the angle of the subframe which results in change of camber. So you cant have any aftermarket subframe bushings/collars. But it took out alot of negative camber.

 

is that true for the individual adjusters too? or just the single bar? It seems like the individual adjusters would only require freedom in the lower control arm busing....

 

the individual adjusters would be the ideal one to get. I should have waited and got that for a few more bucks , the MMR piece is a good price imo. But this single arm is pretty easy to install and adjust. Tilting of the subframe puts the subframe bushings and front diff mount at an angle so you figure its probably more stress on those.

 

Glad I read this before i grabbed a single bar. I plan on going solid subframe bushings so that wont work.

 

these will also make for a noiser car, a slight thumping if you will.

if someone installed these and does not have ANY noise please tell me your secret

 

When the subframe and diff was removed. I reshaped the underbody so that they would not hit!! Just a slight hammer action is all it took.

 

so thats what Im hearing? I need to go under there with a hammer?

probably why it does not show up when its on a post lift or jacked up need it on a lift you drive onto.

 

You should not use the individual adjusters as your only means of adjusting rear camber UNLESS you've got spherical bearings back there. These twist the control arm bushings and can easily lead to binding in the suspension if they're adjusted too far from stock length. Ideally you should have a center link to do the big adjustment, then use the individual ones to even it out, assuming stock bushings. You can still use the center link with solid bushings, it'll just be a little harder to adjust.