okay i just swapped my s4t2 engin to my other s4t2 and passenger side harness and now my car wont get fuel . it fires fine and runs so long as i pour fuel into a vac line pump is working too no blown fuses oh, and now my abs light is on now but thats prolly cuz no power for a long time . there was a box on the pass. strut tower on old car that new one didnt have, has an ovel shaped plug and is just behind headlamp relays i guess on lower of strut tower. the motor ran fine three days ago in other car and now no fuel.

 

Your missing the Fuel Pump Resistor relay package. Passes power to the fuel pump from the Circuit Opening Relay. Get one.

A way around this temporarily, is to jumper the blue/red wires in the plug to the pure Blue wires. Just one blue/red to one pure blue will do the job also. Matters not which blue/red to which blue. Or jumper both blue/red to both pure blue. Same results. See jpg

 

okay my other t2 didnt have the fuel pump relay or either not in the same spot and it didnt have the connecter for it either . took part off of donor car and primaries work but now skippin on secondaries as if no fuel

 

Did you take the harness off the engine? Or just direct bolt in?

 

yes i pulled the harness out of donor car first and yes groumds are hooked up and it is extra grounded also o2 sensor isnt hooked up but that dont make a difference cant seem to find any vac leaks yet either any suggestions

 

If you have a spare cas, plug that in and put the key in the on position. After the cas is plugged in, spin it. Do you hear the fuel pump priming? Also you should be hearing clicking sounds. If you do, your injectors are firing.

 

All S4 TIIs had the fuel pump resistor/relay, so if it's not there in either car, someone removed it. In that case, the harness would have been modified to bypass it. It sounds like you may be confusing the injector resistor pack with it. They're both very similar looking.

 

IF the engine is now running with the fuel pump resistor relay in place, and the secondary injectors are not working, then go to the ECU and pull the small plug off. Key to ON. Put a meter on all the fuel injector wires and see if they have battery voltage or not.

Fuel injector wires are as shown in the FSM. Light green and light green/black for the primarys and light green/red and light green/white for secondarys.

 

okay hailers thats next on my list to do thanks
hey i have a brain fart my old car obviously had the resistor pack removed and i have stock primaries and venom secs now im using the resistor pack will it affect injectors when running an rtek ecu?
well now i think of it other car ran fine wid same stuff exactly on it.
oh i just noticed my tach isnt working either would that have anything to do with the wire on tranny that is broken?

 

Idle the car til hot. Then while idling, pull one of the trail sparkplug wires out of one of the trail coils. If there is no spark b/t the sparkplug wire and the coil bore, then the tach isn't working because there is no trail sparking going on.

We're still confused about the **resistor pack** that was missing. Read what RotaryRocket88
said above.

On early 87 1/2 cars and earlier (1986) there was a solenoid resistor package located below the area of the afm/filter assy. It was bolted to the fender. IF this was a true Turbo car and series four, then it should have also had something called a fuel pump/resistor package located on the headlight bulkhead just in front of the afm/filter. These two items are not the same thing. They do different things in life.

A 1988 car would NOT have had the solenoid resistor package located below the afm/filter assy. It WOULD have had the fuel pump/resitor package located just in front of the afm/filter though.

1988 cars would have high impedence (resistance) injectors whos value would be close to 12-13ohms. The earlier cars that had the solenoid resistor package bolted to the fender below the afm/filter, would have fuel injectors of 2.3 ohms value or real close to that.

The RTEK 2.0 needs to see approx 12-13 ohms resistance on the fuel injector wires coming to the ECU. It'll see that value if high impedence (resistance) injectors are used, or if low resistance injectors are used with the solenoid resistor package (the resistance of the injector pluse the resistance of the resistor in the solenoid resistor package).

I got too wordy writing that. Need pictures. Later.

I'd go to the injectors. Pull the plugs off them. Get a digital meter and put it on ohms. One meter lead on one pin of the injector itself and the other meter lead on the other injector pin. Meter should read approx 2.3 ohms if low impedence. If that is the case, then you NEED to run with the solenoid resistor package.

If the reading is 12-13 ohms, you don't need the solenoid resistor package.

Attached is a jpg of a solenoid resistor package someone posted some time ago. It's looking down. He has a cone air filter and you can see the wiper fluid neck to the left. This item is used on cars with low resistance injectors (2.3 ohms).

I don't have a jpg of the fuel pump/resistor package that sits in front of the afm/filter assy. I think you know what that looks like. All series four Turbo cars had that item but the non turbo series four don't have that item. I think all series five whether turbo or not have that item but no series five has the solenoid resistor package shown in the attached jpg.

 

yes i was talking about the injector resistor pack that the 88 was missing but as said earlier the motor ran fine in the other car wid the resistors and the rtek 7 . when i put the engine and harness in the 88 it wouldnt fire injactors cuz of the box and the same injectors have always been used both cars
what happens if the knock control box goes bad? when i pulled the old harness out the knock box was not bolted down and it came apart as it is only held together by four tabs on the back that simpy fold over.
well im about to try the spare cas trick in a few and ill let ya know what happens.

last question does rtek 7 work wid high and low imp injectors or only one cuz i was told both

 

It doesn't matter that it's an Rtek chipped ECU. All stock ECUs need to see roughly 8 to 13 ohms of resistance to limit the current properly. If your injectors are high impendence (12-13 ohm), you're set and don't need to do anything so long as the harness matches. If your injectors are low imp. (2-3 ohm), and your harness has a plug for the injector resistor pack (6 ohm), you'll need to use it. Note that the total resistance is not exactly equal between an '86-'87.5 & an '87.5+; it's 8-9 ohms total on '86-'87.5s.

If the knock box came apart, put it back together or just disconnect it. It's only marginally useful.

 

ok i did the cas trick and injectors would click but no fuel pumpage but when i turn the engine over stream shoots like eight inches from filter so i cut the green wire on the fuel pump relay and same thing. i have a leaking heater core now so i cant warm the engine yet but i did drive it arount the small block at my house and its as if if isnt getting enough fuel or spark my injectors are high imp so i eliminated the injector solenoid and it seems to idle better but same problem as before im gonna swap out the fuel filter tomorrow . there was a small resistor bolted to the trail coil pack that looked melted so i swapped it out also and no difference maybe ill record and youtube it tomorrow if i have time

 

I don't recognize a *resistor bolted to the trail coil* thing. There is a condenser , just like the one used for the oil pressure sensor, that is bolted in that area. Square....black...one wire. Connects to a plug with a yellow/black power wire that is the same wire that powers both lead and trail coil assys.

Turning a spare CAS connected to the harness also requires that you jumper the yellow, two socket fuel pump check connector so the fuel pump will run. If you don't jumper it, then the injectors (primary only) will click but not spit fuel.

Condenser jpg attached.

Knock box: just disconnect it. I run without one all the time. No adverse effects noted.

Just a story::: I had a little event yesterday. I had the upper intake off yesterday to replace the water hose between the rear side housing and the throttle body. Change it out and reassy the parts taken off. Started it up and checked for leaks etc. Then decided to go for a drive to make sure everything was ok. Backed out of the driveway just fine. Put it in first and stepped on the pedal. Engine cutout when I pressed the pedal and the natural reaction was to let off. The engine stayed running and idle like a champ. Tried again to apply pedal. SAme result...engine cut fuel until I let off the pedal.

Idled back into the driveway and went in the house and got the Palm. Sure enough, the TPS reading was 100 percent. If I applied pedal the reading went downwards as if the wires were connected *** backwards to the TPS. Did that several times with the pedal while watching the TPS reading. 100* down to 4 or 5% each time. Removed the intercooler and made sure the plunger on the tps wasn't stuck or???? whatever. That didn't help at all. Tapped on the TPS with a wrench. No help there. Tugged on the wires at the TPS in a reasonable manner and nothing felt loose etc. Looked at the Palm after doing this and now the reading on the Palm was normal. Twenty percent at idle and step on the pedal and the reading went up to the 100% as normal.

Went for a drive and all was normal. Got me why the TPS was reading 100% at idle and going down as pedal was applied. Backwards. Anyway, the TPS was doing its job in a sense. It was cutting fuel. Have not got that quite right in my head yet but it was cutting the fuel when the pedal was applied.

My way of suggesting you go for a drive with the TPS disconnected and see what happens. On the other hand you problem might be just a loose TID duct at the turbo or cracked TID or something or other else wrong. No idea.

Your tach: does not work because your trail sparkplugs are not firing.

 

well it the trails arent firing then thats my whole problem but why would they not fire now

 

for ***** and giggles i swapped out trail coils and tach works and car reva normal till 6000 rpm then misfires

 

well hailers2 we have found it you and i! after changing the trail coil it fired fine and ran like poo beyond 6000 rpm . upon inspecting vac lines i found a leak in the tid where the recirc valve was at so i fixed it (rigged it) and voila its alive!!!!!! thank you all who asssssisted me in the hunt for rx7 assssistance!