water temp question
water temp question
i bought a water temp gauge..about where should my temps be, to be on the safe side i don't have my car running at the moment but i wanna get an idea of where temps should be once i get the motor in.
well i'm n/a so still should be the same? or lower? just making sure getting all my info so i can watch and make sure nothing goes wrong. sorry if i sound stupid just didnt know how hot is to hot.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
just remember that Water Boils at 212 degrees Farenheit,or 100 Degrees Celcius...If your Car is THAT hot,it should be Overheating,and Showing it..I just installed a Gauge myself,and I'm gonna be looking for Temps around 180 to 200..It gets any Hotter than That,I am going to shut it down.(running a Koyo and new thermo,Stock Fan on an N/A.).Cheers Styx.
Old Rotary Dog
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 2
From: Durham, NC
Sigh. So much misinformation, so little time.
Minimum water temps, once the car warms up, are controlled by the thermostat. It opens&closes to send more/less coolant into the engine to try and maintain proper operating temperature. In the case of the FC, this should be around 190F, maybe slightly lower.
Cruising down the highway on a "normal" (80-90 degree) day with minimal load on the engine, you should be able to maintain that temp.
Yes, water boils at 212F in normal atmosphere. At higher pressures, the boiling point is significantly higher. (Conversely, the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point which is why water boils at a slightly lower temp at higher altitudes.) The pressure cap on the radiator maintains a higher pressure in the cooling system and thus allows a higher boiling point. Why did you think it was there?
Other contributor is coolant. Adding it to water raises the boiling point (and lowers the freezing point at the same time).
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
While driving, your temps will obviously vary depending upon external temps, load on the engine, etc. In general you should be running under 200 (as indicated earlier) but if you keep it under 220 you are fine. Running 220-230 is getting a bit warm and you should be looking for a place to pull over because there is something wrong. Near 230 and you should definitely pull over and cut the engine.
Obviously, these are general rules and depend on the situation. If you are cruising on a cool day and notice that the temps are at 210 and rising, you should of course pull over, because there is something wrong. On the other hand, when I run my FC on the track, it pretty much constantly sits around 205-210, with occasional trips above that.
As for max temp your engine can withstand, again that depends. When I blew a coolant hose off at the track, the temps spiked well above 230 before I got her back to the pits. Too much longer and I would have just pulled off the track. But I have a lot of oil cooling capacity (dual FC coolers) and the engine survived. I wouldn't recommend this, however. :-)
-bill
Minimum water temps, once the car warms up, are controlled by the thermostat. It opens&closes to send more/less coolant into the engine to try and maintain proper operating temperature. In the case of the FC, this should be around 190F, maybe slightly lower.
Cruising down the highway on a "normal" (80-90 degree) day with minimal load on the engine, you should be able to maintain that temp.
Yes, water boils at 212F in normal atmosphere. At higher pressures, the boiling point is significantly higher. (Conversely, the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point which is why water boils at a slightly lower temp at higher altitudes.) The pressure cap on the radiator maintains a higher pressure in the cooling system and thus allows a higher boiling point. Why did you think it was there?
Other contributor is coolant. Adding it to water raises the boiling point (and lowers the freezing point at the same time).
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
While driving, your temps will obviously vary depending upon external temps, load on the engine, etc. In general you should be running under 200 (as indicated earlier) but if you keep it under 220 you are fine. Running 220-230 is getting a bit warm and you should be looking for a place to pull over because there is something wrong. Near 230 and you should definitely pull over and cut the engine.
Obviously, these are general rules and depend on the situation. If you are cruising on a cool day and notice that the temps are at 210 and rising, you should of course pull over, because there is something wrong. On the other hand, when I run my FC on the track, it pretty much constantly sits around 205-210, with occasional trips above that.
As for max temp your engine can withstand, again that depends. When I blew a coolant hose off at the track, the temps spiked well above 230 before I got her back to the pits. Too much longer and I would have just pulled off the track. But I have a lot of oil cooling capacity (dual FC coolers) and the engine survived. I wouldn't recommend this, however. :-)
-bill
Last edited by wrankin; Aug 15, 2008 at 08:01 AM.
Sigh. So much misinformation, so little time.
Minimum water temps, once the car warms up, are controlled by the thermostat. It opens&closes to send more/less coolant into the engine to try and maintain proper operating temperature. In the case of the FC, this should be around 190F, maybe slightly lower.
Cruising down the highway on a "normal" (80-90 degree) day with minimal load on the engine, you should be able to maintain that temp.
Yes, water boils at 212F in normal atmosphere. At higher pressures, the boiling point is significantly higher. (Conversely, the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point which is why water boils at a slightly lower temp at higher altitudes.) The pressure cap on the radiator maintains a higher pressure in the cooling system and thus allows a higher boiling point. Why did you think it was there?
Other contributor is coolant. Adding it to water raises the boiling point (and lowers the freezing point at the same time).
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
While driving, your temps will obviously vary depending upon external temps, load on the engine, etc. In general you should be running under 200 (as indicated earlier) but if you keep it under 220 you are fine. Running 220-230 is getting a bit warm and you should be looking for a place to pull over because there is something wrong. Near 230 and you should definitely pull over and cut the engine.
Obviously, these are general rules and depend on the situation. If you are cruising on a cool day and notice that the temps are at 210 and rising, you should of course pull over, because there is something wrong. On the other hand, when I run my FC on the track, it pretty much constantly sits around 205-210, with occasional trips above that.
As for max temp your engine can withstand, again that depends. When I blew a coolant hose off at the track, the temps spiked well above 230 before I got her back to the pits. Too much longer and I would have just pulled off the track. But I have a lot of oil cooling capacity (dual FC coolers) and the engine survived. I wouldn't recommend this, however. :-)
-bill
Minimum water temps, once the car warms up, are controlled by the thermostat. It opens&closes to send more/less coolant into the engine to try and maintain proper operating temperature. In the case of the FC, this should be around 190F, maybe slightly lower.
Cruising down the highway on a "normal" (80-90 degree) day with minimal load on the engine, you should be able to maintain that temp.
Yes, water boils at 212F in normal atmosphere. At higher pressures, the boiling point is significantly higher. (Conversely, the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point which is why water boils at a slightly lower temp at higher altitudes.) The pressure cap on the radiator maintains a higher pressure in the cooling system and thus allows a higher boiling point. Why did you think it was there?
Other contributor is coolant. Adding it to water raises the boiling point (and lowers the freezing point at the same time).
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
While driving, your temps will obviously vary depending upon external temps, load on the engine, etc. In general you should be running under 200 (as indicated earlier) but if you keep it under 220 you are fine. Running 220-230 is getting a bit warm and you should be looking for a place to pull over because there is something wrong. Near 230 and you should definitely pull over and cut the engine.
Obviously, these are general rules and depend on the situation. If you are cruising on a cool day and notice that the temps are at 210 and rising, you should of course pull over, because there is something wrong. On the other hand, when I run my FC on the track, it pretty much constantly sits around 205-210, with occasional trips above that.
As for max temp your engine can withstand, again that depends. When I blew a coolant hose off at the track, the temps spiked well above 230 before I got her back to the pits. Too much longer and I would have just pulled off the track. But I have a lot of oil cooling capacity (dual FC coolers) and the engine survived. I wouldn't recommend this, however. :-)
-bill
good info thanks a bunch that helps
I knw wht u did last sumr
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: AZ
FYI
I live in AZ and my temps average from 196-202 durring the summer.
I'll hit 206-208 if going up hill.
The one time I ran AC in the summer I hit 218.
Ohh, and my sender is located in the upper radiator hose...
I live in AZ and my temps average from 196-202 durring the summer.
I'll hit 206-208 if going up hill.
The one time I ran AC in the summer I hit 218.
Ohh, and my sender is located in the upper radiator hose...
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