I have the two speed Taurus fan on my S5 vert. I have it wired so that low speed is temp controlled at about 185*f. High speed kicks in (and low kicks off!) when the A/C compressor is engaged.

Performance is *outstanding*. A/C is ice cold literally at idle highspeed fan on recirculation mode. When the compressor cycles and the high speed fan shuts down, often the low speed does not even run, due to the temp being below 185*...

The last two weekends I took a couple of 350 mile trips, A/C on. Operation was flawless and the performance superb.

With all that being said, I will tell you that I am not yet comfortable with the the system! I am using a couple of *genuine* Bosch relays, one for high and one for low. The relays are 20/30 amps. That means 20 amps on the N/C side and 30 amps on the N/O side. That they are genuine Bosch means that they are likely the equal to the Chinese 30/40 amp relays on the internet. If the life is slightly reduced, that's ok, I have more. Here is where I have run into a problem. The relay socket on the high speed fan *melted* due to the wiring connector getting so hot during continuous use. The insulation on the wires was right behind it and had a burned color to the yellow wire. I believe that I was very, very close to a fire! I was on the first 350 mile trip and popped the hood at a gas stop to check out the fan setup. I immediately cut the wire from the A/C to the high speed relay coil so that the high fan relay was disabled. I was driving mostly highway and it was over 100* outside so I knew that the low speed would likely never shut off. I had NO problems with cooling, but I could tell that the A/C was not as cold in traffic at low speeds.

My plan is to rewire another relay socket with 10 gauge wire then retry the whole thing. The sockets that I bought were made with 16 gauge leads. 14 ga.=15 amps, 12 ga=20 amps, 10 ga= 30 amps for continuous use. I will then buy one of the 60 amp super relays off ebay. I don't like the idea of using a parallel relay to carry the load. From what I have seen, if one of the relay's failed, the other one could not quite carry the load, but the system would still work.

Also, I am running the fan system on a 40 amp fuse that I added to the main fuse box under the hood. The fuse now has about 25-30 hours of high speed fan activation on it. If this fan pulls more than 40 amps continuous, this fuse would have blown.

I keep reading different web sites that state the amperage draw on the high and low speed of this fan. EVERY one of them claims to have measured the amp draw themselves with a clamp on ammeter, like an amprobe. My clamp on doesn't measure DC amps, inductively, only A/C amps. I wonder is this is some internet legend that has been repeated so often that it has become the truth. I have ordered an inline ammeter that will measure up to 60 amps in 5 amp increments. We shall see. I will post pics to this thread when I get the meter.

 

And for those that think that an E-fan is going to help performance, this is sometimes true.

When the fan is not running the engine revs freely and pull harder than it ever did with the belt driven fan.

When the fan is running you can really feel the added load of the alternator. My volts stay right at 14v with my S5 alternator, but I can definitely feel the added drag.

 

hi there, very nice post, i too im very impressed by these fans probaly the only good part in the entire taurus set up. not trying to hi-jack your thread but if anybody wants a taurus e-fan i have 3 available

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=772581

 

im also running one of these fans on both my FC's. they blow something fierce and fit the stock/koyo radiator perfectly

 

I have recently bought one of these fans and was going to install to but my mech told me that it would work better if it was hooked up to the haltec and since i am going to get a bigger turbo so when they tune they could right away tune it with the turbo.

I got a question for you jack, you have your a/c with the stock computer?

 

Dude, if you go to autozone you can get female spade connectors that are designed for 8 gauge wire and will plug right into a 40 amp relay. And you can easily find spades that will run 10 gauge wire.

I'm running 8 gauge wire right to my fuel pump and I use those spades to connect to an OEM relay which bypasses my resistor relay.

 

Yes, nothing is changed on the A/C, except that the compressor clutch wire also activates the high-speed relay. I could have easily just wired one relay and used only the high speed or even really the low speed on the fan. I just wanted to use all the capability of the fan. I also didn't want to stress the charging system as much. Using the low speed for cooling is pretty easy on the charging system.

 

My mistake was not due to lack of knowledge, but by laziness. I knew the wire was undersized and planned to replace the wires on those sockets. I just got the thing working, did not find any trouble and decided to road test the set up for a few days. Three months later, I took the long road trips and well, there you go.

You do use sockets for your relays don't you? If not you really should start. The socket *holds* those female connectors. It's not absolutely necessary, but it is such a nice neat OEM looking way to wire a relay. It makes it quite easy to replace the relay if you wear out the relay or if you want to upgrade to higher capacity relay.

I quit using spades stuck onto relays and started using the same relay plugged into the relay socket when I was a junior in high school.

Jimmy Carter was president...

 

What year taurus can these be found in?

 

I don't know the year range, but it is the generation that includes 1989. Get it off the large v6, 3.8 I think? You will know it when you see it, the fan has 3 wires. Make sure you get the wiring connector. I would also advise getting the relays if you can find them.

 

Your relay was too small, for high speed you need to run a 50amp.

 

Good info here! Can you please elaborate on how everything was wired up? Are the high and low speed both hooked up the same to each of their relays, except that low speed is connected to N/C and high speed is connected to it's own relay on N/O?

So would high speed look like this:


and low speed, connected the same way, to it's own relay using the N/C? If so, what about the rest of the wires, how do they connect to each other?

 

Maybe, maybe not. My relay did not overheat, the wiring for my socket over heated.


And why specifically do you recommend a 50 amp relay?

 

NOTE

dont put limbs/appendages in the fan.....

there was a previous member who inadvertently slipped his finger in when it was on and he nearly lost a digit

 

That diagram would work for low speed only or high speed only.



To ADD high speed actuation for the A/C compressor operation make the following changes:

1.Consider your in your diagram the top relay is low speed control, the lower relay high speed control

2.) move the fused battery lead to the common (30) terminal on the high speed relay.

3.) connect a wire from the N/C terminal (87a) on the high speed relay to the common (30) terminal on the low speed relay.

4.))Connect the N/O terminal (87) on the high speed relay to the high speed wire on the Taurus fan.

5.) Ground coil terminal (85) on the high speed relay.

6.) connect the A/C compressor wire to coil terminal (86) on the high speed relay.

This is how it works: The low speed relay gets it's current to operate the fan from the high speed relay routed through the normally closed circuit. Fan operates at low speed when the thermostat calls for cooling. When the A/C circuit is activated, the high speed relay breaks the circuit for low speed and makes the circuit for high speed. This is an interlock circuit that prevents both wires from being energized at once. The high speed fan A/C circuit is prioritized above the cooling circuit.


Enjoy your two speed fan operation.

 

Thanks for the info! As far as activation methods, do you prefer using an aftermarket sensor, or using the stock sensor and wiring up a voltage switch?

 

the taurus fans draw an ungodly amount of power when on, thats what you are feeling.

 

I am currently using an adjustable temperature controller (imperial) that is set at approximately 185*-190*. If you have used one of these, you know why it is not a perfectly set temperature. Like this one http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52125/10002/-1

When I am completely comfortable with the setup, I will put in a new water pump and temp switch in the back of the water pump.

The remote probe is designed to push into the fins of the radiator. I didn't like that method and I couldn't get a consistent coolant temperature. I thought about using some heatsink compound to increase the thermal contact, but instead I slipped the probe into the upper radiator hose so that it is directly in the coolant flow. Since I use a zero pressure cooling system, I have no leaking or seeping whatsoever. I already had the switch sitting in my garage from a project long ago. This is a temporary method, but frankly works very well for now.

 

Yeah, everyone know this. You have measured the amount and using your special meter, it falls clear over into the red under 'UnGodly' rather than over in the green under 'HighlyGodly'

Right.

Seriously, I am going to measure this fan current under operating conditions and then I will know for sure.

 

here did a little search

1995 Ford Taurus (3.8L)
Dual speed
low: ~2500 cfm, Amp draw ~23.75A
high: ~3800cfm, Amp draw ~46.5

which is alot if you dont have a high output alt, , that might be what your feeling

 

HOLY ****

I guess I need to upgrade to my FD alt before I even think about this!

 

Wow! You google?

Yeah, yeah. Do 10 more searches and you will find 12 more answers. I even have elegant charts and graphs that detail the CFM of the Taurus fan at various current draws.

I think they are all made up. One guy even used a stopwatch to time how long it took the fan to fill up a 30 gallon trash bag, then did the math to calculate the CFM. That was one impressive testing facility! I believe that is where the 4000 cfm ratings come from.

 

my friend is running an electric fan on his stock 90 Vert, and he has no issues at all. i think as long as you are not running any amps or anything of that nature you should be ok

 

Well, the stock FC alternators are crap IMO, so upgrading would be a good thing anyways.

 

haha and these people melting relays, say i didnt know what i was talking about when i say it pulls a lot o amps