well im putting in the harness for the TII right now and im kinda stumped. i only have the main harness of the TII (the one with teh two plugs for the ecu and goes on the passenger side of the engine bay). i know i need the other one to connect the coils and whatnot.

what of the GSLSE harnesses though? the headlights and stuff are built into that as well. can i use the TII driver side harness for the relays and all that then remove the chassis related items from the gslse harness and run those all with the tII harness?


wires suck

 

I don't know if Steve's list of wiring changes is in the archives or not. Even though I saved the harnes and ecu when I parted out a TII, I'm going MegaSquirt for my swap. The stock TII system limits hp upgrades too much for my goals.

If Steve doesn't pop in, PM him, he's usually very willing to help.

 

the only pieces you really need from the T2 driver side is for the coils and CAS.

run your own wires for that and use your stock SE harness to control the lights and such.

if you can find a drive side harness plug and splice into that for your CAS and coils.

 

i have the plug so i guess ill just make the harness then. easy enough.

 

POP!


Here I am......
Dont cut or splice anything on the 1st gen wiring harness'.There is no need for it,you just need to take care of the 2nd gen's ECU power,coils/ignitors and the CAS.
To do this cleanly,youll need a 2nd gen underhood fuse block and the FC main relay.The fuseblock is nice because it replaces the old stlye fusible links that the 1st gens had.The FC main relay is back by the trailing coils,and is a square box.It provides power "on" to the ECU,fuel pump relay and also power to the injectors and solenoids on the engine.
Once all that is taken care of,you just need to run about 10-12 wires from the last yellow ECU gangplug,to the items under the hood that you are powering.Its easy because the wires on the plug,and the wires on the items are the same colors.These items are......
Leading coil
Trailing coils
Crank Angle Sensor
(TII only) fuel pump relay resistor

Youll also want to mount the 2nd gen circuit opening relay for the fuel pump,next to the ECU.Its powered up by the small wire from the main relay and its wired up to the resistor/relay pack under the hood.This little relay powers up the fuel pump when cranking,and works directly with the resistor/relay pack to vary the fuel pump voltage/pressure on the TII's.

All other wires on the last ECU gangplug can be de-pinned to get them out of the way.They run stuff that isnt needed at all (milage sensor,AC switch,shift up light,foglight relay,blower relay) or it is only smog related.
If you need to pass smog and have everything up and running,youll have to add another 4-5 wires to those items....(radiator temp sender,port air solenoid,exhaust overheat sensor,5th gear switch)

The factory service manual is invaluble for getting all the wiring done right.
The S4 manual doesnt have as good of diagrams as the S5,but most of the S5 wiring is the same for what your working on.This is the "Holy Grail" page for wiring up the left side harness stuff........

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...tems_turbo.pdf

Page F2-8 is all the wiring.
The wiring for the coils,main relay,circuit opening relay and the fuel pump stuff is exactly the same as on S4.The smog gear is a bit different and the S5 runs the crank angle sensor wires through the big right side harness.Just print up that page,rotate it 90 degrees and concentrate on the stuff to the left.All your wiring your gonna do is concentrated on the left side of that diagram....youll soon see that wiring indeed,does not suck!

Any questions,just ask.....

 

well im running the fuel pump on its own switch so that eliminates the need for the fuel pump relay / resistors. Then do i remove the GSLSE main relay or must that remain in place for anything?

 

on my setup i reused the SE relay, i think steve might be using parts from an FC.

 

You can probably use the SE relay....I used FC parts because my car was a GS.It could be different since the FC has different coilpack and more injectors/solenoids..(more amp draw)

The 2 big black wires from the main relay provide power to the engine accesories.One for the injectors/coils and one for all the other solenoids.
Those 2 wires link into the big right side harness a little ways up from the ECU gangplugs,on another plug that usually under the dash.

 

ill use the FC main relay then.

 

honestly this is starting to seem almost too easy...

 

i have a couple questions to add to all the confusion.

my se does not have a fuse box under the hood, the only one i have is inside the car.

1. so will i need to add in the fc fuse box?

and

2. the motor i plan on buying has the whole drivers side harness, including the coils, would it be possible to run that whole harness without cutting anything, and without getting rid of any plugs or wires? and just use the factory harness to make the lights and such work?

heres a link to the motor i have found, and every one the company sells has the coils and complete drivers side harness. click here

and on a side note, has anyone ever used that ebay company before?

 

You have a fuse box under the hood,its just not the conventional type.1st gens had fusible links,which are small cloth covered wires that burn up when overloaded.They work like regular fuses,but are hard to find in parts places and they tend to get all gunked up.Its on the front edge of the drivers side strut tower,a little brown plastic box.
Thats why its good to replace it with the more standard 2nd gen box,which uses common block fuses.Its an easy swap,just mount and cut/splice a few wires.Youll even have a few extra circuits that you can use to fuse large aftermarket items like amps,fans and foglights.....and itll look stock and clean.On a 12A first gen,there are 3 circuits used,Main,Headlight and Retractor......the GSL-SE has 1 more circuit for the EFI I believe.

You could use the whole 2nd gen left side harness if you really want to.Its very,very large and youll either have to shove it all up in there,or cut out about 98% of it to extract the parts you need.Its much easier to just make a new harness to power the handful of items youll need.Its only 10-12 wires and is about the diameter of a SlimJim after its all wrapped and done.

...........it is easy!;-)