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C3 was the one that went bad by visual inspection, but I also replaced C4, C1. There was one spot that came off the board but stayed attached when I soldered the speedometer back on, X2
I think you just found the culprit of your speedometer problems. It looks like the eyelets got too hot and lifted. What type of soldering iron did you use? How long did you apply heat to each lead?
How does the rest of the backside of the circuit board look? Especially around the capacitors that were replaced?
20w iron, I would just keep it on until i got the solder liquid to be able to use the desolder pump. This spot seems to be the only spot that is of notice.
The 20W soldering iron is too low for this project. The 20W iron may not be transferring enough heat or the lower wattage allows for the solder to cool much faster which may cause poor solder joints. Head out to Sears and pick up a 45W iron. It should run you about $10. Look for Item # 00954042000P Model # 54042.
The higher wattage will ensure proper heat transfer and keep the solder flowing more than the 20W iron. This would give you better soldering results.
If you don't have some already then pick up some solder flux too. Trust me, it makes soldering A LOT easier and faster.
Congratulations on repairing your odometer! How did you go about repairing the lifted eyelet? How do the solder joints look? Does your speedometer work properly now?
I'll be honest, probably still looks like crap to most people. I just pulled the 2 capacitors I did and redid the solder and held the loose eyelets done to get held by the solder. I have my ecu out for repairs so don't know about the speedo yet, but it doesn't go straight up when sitting still now.
Well got enough together to try it out. Odometer display works and tracks distance perfect. Speed on my gauge display in adaptronic shows the correct speed, but speedometer on cluster still does the goes to 59mph and stays there.... Not sure if I want to try again or just get another cluster.
Good to hear that your odo still works. Just remember that the eyelets on the speedo board were lifted. Even if it was tamped down, there may be a break in the solder run. That may still cause a problem with the speedometer. How do the solder joints look from the speedo to the board? I believe IC6 controls the speedometer so give it a good look when examining the board again.
Thinking about your speedometer reading 60MPH more, the problem may stem from using a different ECU. Do you still have the original ECU? Could you plug it back in then run the car? If the speedo problem goes away then the problem is caused by the adaptronic ECU.
The adaptronic ECU may not be bad but a signal that normally goes to the stock ECU may not be used by the new ECU.
Additionally, take another look at your flex print board on the back of the instrument cluster. Look for any melted solder runs.
Well It worked fine with adaptronic before the whole changing motor mounts and odometer went out. Probably will be that one spot that came up. Just seems weird that it goes up some and not just not working at all.
IC, so the lifted eyelets may be causing the weird speedo issue. Since the adaptronic ECU is reading the speed correctly, the signal from the board may be ok. Were there any other wiring changes done to the car since the odo went out?
What component are you referring to? The 1,000uF, 6.3V capacitor is found on DigiKey. Unless you have a Radio Shack in your area (they went out of business from my understanding), then DigiKey or Mouser Electronics are the way to go for electrical components such as capacitors, diodes, resistors, and transistors, etc...
IC, so the lifted eyelets may be causing the weird speedo issue. Since the adaptronic ECU is reading the speed correctly, the signal from the board may be ok. Were there any other wiring changes done to the car since the odo went out?
Nope, just the mounts and oil pan change. Took it out again and am trying one more time on this.
Also, clicked that link for the not found reply and it works for me.
Nope, just the mounts and oil pan change. Took it out again and am trying one more time on this.
Also, clicked that link for the not found reply and it works for me.
Houstonderk, thanks for sharing. The next time you look at your instrument cluster, take another look at the flexprint for any distorted runs or burned up runs. My primary guess for the non-working speedo is the solder joints between the circuit board and the speedometer. The lifted eyelets are also suspect.
Break, break.
The link to the odometer/speedometer components board link works from Houston's quoted reply. However, the original post doesn't work. Either way, that link can be found throughout this thread or can be easily searched in the forum.
After looking at your Post #22 **See Post #245 below**, you have a few options to consider.
First, do you want to make an attempt at repairing the board or do you want to replace it? Since you have the KPH speedo it would be easier to get. The cost to replace the KPH speedo may be higher however, the bad unit comes out and the new unit goes in. So the time invested in the repair is much less if you repaired the components individually.
Second, do you have a soldering iron or know someone who solders well, locally? Use a soldering iron rated at 45W. Read the remainder of this thread for additional solder advise. There is a great deal of satisfaction in repairing a bad board although, it will cost you much more in time. The parts however, will not cost much.
Third, the scorch marks on the speedo board look severe. Even if you attempt to repair the board, it may not be worth saving if the damage is extensive. Burned up solder runs may be hidden underneath the char. If the board is too far gone, then a replacement is your best option. The odometer count could be swapped to the new board by replacing IC3, which is the EPROM IC chip that stores the car's odometer reading.
Whatever your choice, I would suggest removing the speedometer from the circuit board to further inspect the damage. It also looks like some of the capacitors need replacement. Additionally, look at the back side of the board. How bad are the burn marks?
I also highly encourage you to examine the flex-print on the instrument cluster. Look for any additional charring or melted wire runs.
Did you have any modifications to the instrument cluster or make any other electrical mods to the car?
You may also be able to help identify the part numbers for ZD4, ZD5, and ZD7. They would have to be de-soldered for a closer inspection. A bit of isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab clean up carbon char well. If you are able to get them (part numbers) then please post your findings on the related thread (where you posted the photos of your speedo board).
I wish you the best of luck on your repairs and keep us posted. I'll do my best to lend a hand with the info/photos you provide.
Cheers,
George
Last edited by Gen2n3; Jun 21, 2017 at 03:56 PM.
Reason: Refer to Post 245 of this thread for photos
After looking at your Post #22, you have a few options to consider.
First, do you want to make an attempt at repairing the board or do you want to replace it? Since you have the KPH speedo it would be easier to get. The cost to replace the KPH speedo may be higher however, the bad unit comes out and the new unit goes in. So the time invested in the repair is much less if you repaired the components individually.
Second, do you have a soldering iron or know someone who solders well, locally? Use a soldering iron rated at 45W. Read the remainder of this thread for additional solder advise. There is a great deal of satisfaction in repairing a bad board although, it will cost you much more in time. The parts however, will not cost much.
Third, the scorch marks on the speedo board look severe. Even if you attempt to repair the board, it may not be worth saving if the damage is extensive. Burned up solder runs may be hidden underneath the char. If the board is too far gone, then a replacement is your best option. The odometer count could be swapped to the new board by replacing IC3, which is the EPROM IC chip that stores the car's odometer reading.
Whatever your choice, I would suggest removing the speedometer from the circuit board to further inspect the damage. It also looks like some of the capacitors need replacement. Additionally, look at the back side of the board. How bad are the burn marks?
I also highly encourage you to examine the flex-print on the instrument cluster. Look for any additional charring or melted wire runs.
Did you have any modifications to the instrument cluster or make any other electrical mods to the car?
You may also be able to help identify the part numbers for ZD4, ZD5, and ZD7. They would have to be de-soldered for a closer inspection. A bit of isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab clean up carbon char well. If you are able to get them (part numbers) then please post your findings on the related thread (where you posted the photos of your speedo board).
I wish you the best of luck on your repairs and keep us posted. I'll do my best to lend a hand with the info/photos you provide.
Cheers,
George
I would like to repair it rather then replacing as a replacement where I am costs a lot.
Yes I know a relative who is good in electronics, he repaired my burnt Defi Link Controller so he will probably be able to do this if I can find the parts required for it.
My car is swapped. It's running a 1JZ and both the Speedo and Tach have been working for 6 years since the swap.
It still works occasionally when it does not it gets stuck at 180 or jumps.
Could you explain what modifications were made to the instrument cluster and/or speedo board? I am unfamiliar with any mods concerning a 1JZ motor swap.
Were any wires added to the GND, 12V, and Tach signal screws on the back side of the instrument cluster?
So went at it again since it's kindof easy to get to. Got an esr meter and some of the 10uf capacitors were showing around 5-6, not sure if that is acceptable but replaced one and redid the speedo solder spots. Plugged in and key on it climbs to 20 now instead of 60. Then there is movement from the 20 to 60 mark when moving and then stopping it drops back to 20 slowly, not actual speed of movement. Then with key off it goes to zero so something improved it a bit. Maybe I'' change the other ones showing different numbers and see what it does.
Measuring capacitors in the circuit will typically yield different results because other components are in-line with it. When capacitors go bad, they create an open circuit.
It looks like your speedometer is getting better. That may be a result of better solder joints between the speedo and speedo board. How do those lifted eyelets look?
Well I've been having an odometer problem for the last few months on my 94 FD. My cruise control also stopped working at the same time. Well I just swaped out a leaking C3 capacitor for a panasonic version, and my odometer still doesn't work. The rest of the board looks flawless. Any ideals out there?
The rest of the board looks flawless. Any ideals out there?
