The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
#801
Well, first step is get it tuned. I'm lining that up as we speak. Trying to pick a date and time, and deciding what to do with the weather out side. Wait until after winter, where we can actually drive it after the tune without death or go now
The rear should hold fine, its a 1.5 way carbonetic diff. Needs upgraded axles and a diff brace and definitely a trans. When those are completed, and transmission is in place, I'd consider the car completed to my goals.
Meantime, I'd like to see 5-10psi on the engine and run it through the paces, even if we blow a gear. Just to make sure all is working properly, that the AR size is large enough, that turbo/engine/fuel/ignition/ecu all check outs, bfore dropping cash on the transmission.
To this isn't a dedicated purpose car. Its more of a learning experience, mental training, and an example how we can combine efforts from around the community into a car. I wouldn't want to risk this thing on the track pushing it to hard and wreck it, blow an engine, or try to go set records.
The car for that would be the SLC
BTW if you need a tune let me know, because you might be able to jump in with us local guys on the tuner we'll be flying in!
#802
BadAss DoItYourselfer
iTrader: (9)
So I've found,
The engine tone changes considerably upon load. When it 3% throttle it sound like a lobbing low pitch but when it goes into throttle and loads up, like traveling up hill, the sound smooths out and begins to whine as you'd expect. I believe when the wastegates pop open the car is loaded down, it will scream like the 787 over 5k rpms etc. But on free rev the tone is so different.
3 rotor seems to do the same thing. Totally different free rev sound then on throttle.
So i wonder why the N/A cars have the scream at idle / free rev but the turbo cars do not.
I have noticed this on the Curran Brothers 26b's. They sound just like this car, then when he hits boost or is on the trans-brake, it screams like the N/A cars.
But then some of the mad mike 4 rotor's don't sound the same as the 787b even in N/A form.
The firing order is confirmed the same so it must be a combo of things.
The engine tone changes considerably upon load. When it 3% throttle it sound like a lobbing low pitch but when it goes into throttle and loads up, like traveling up hill, the sound smooths out and begins to whine as you'd expect. I believe when the wastegates pop open the car is loaded down, it will scream like the 787 over 5k rpms etc. But on free rev the tone is so different.
3 rotor seems to do the same thing. Totally different free rev sound then on throttle.
So i wonder why the N/A cars have the scream at idle / free rev but the turbo cars do not.
I have noticed this on the Curran Brothers 26b's. They sound just like this car, then when he hits boost or is on the trans-brake, it screams like the N/A cars.
But then some of the mad mike 4 rotor's don't sound the same as the 787b even in N/A form.
The firing order is confirmed the same so it must be a combo of things.
#803
Rotary Enthusiast
I do still need a tune. So I am definitely interested.
My vote is to go ahead and tune it. It is like the ending of a chapter in your build, and might show you some things that you want to fix.
Who the heck tunes 4 rotors anyways?
Last edited by Gilgamesh; 11-16-16 at 12:47 PM.
#804
This past two days, a great and long time friend of mine, Chas Keithan, came by and slept at the storage unit while performing an insane paint correction job on the clear coat. He went above and beyond to remove every single scratch and swirl mark. His work ethic is incredible and there's a science to his every move. Very careful not to burn through the clear. Wears a headmounted LED lamp and surrounds the car with LED lights for direct lighting to light up every possible scratch.
If any of you guys are near Chattanooga Tennessee, he does awesome work. Or he will drive to you if you have area for him to work.
Chattanooga's Premier Auto Detailing | Albedo Detail
If any of you guys are near Chattanooga Tennessee, he does awesome work. Or he will drive to you if you have area for him to work.
Chattanooga's Premier Auto Detailing | Albedo Detail
#810
Thank you guys,
To answer some of the questions above:
This is OEM transmission. Going to get it tuned and make sure all the systems and everything works and then proceed to either a TKO / T56 or HGT sequential. Tuning in next few weeks. We have 3x spare transmission in the meantime and changing them isn't a big deal to us for the time being. Hope to see around 5-10psi, make sure all is working well before deciding a direction to go for the transmission. Ultimately, we want to stay with the triple plate FD clutch and bell-housing design, so leaning towards the HGT sequential. This trans looks great for street and track use and doesn't have the loud wine as most sequentialls. They are also rated for 800+ftlbs of torque.
Finishing up a few odds and ends.
To keep fuel temps down and heatsoak out of the water cooled intake manifold, we made this shield tonight, set off from the fuel rail with nylon spacers
We replaced the turbine blanket with the Thermal Zero Titanium version. We also changed the axle seals on the differential which were leaking and adding small front mount cooler to help catch airflow for the water to air intake setup.
Last thing left to do is install the 4-Channel EGT sensors, 1/4in large ones to handle the heat. Bungs are already welded on the runners. We're waiting for the kit which will include the I/O Can Hub and Amplifier so that we may run it directly into the Racepak and Haltech. This is another reason we strongly love the Haltech. It always for so many connections through the CAN hub. We will be able to log EGT through the ECU and see on the Racepak, which should be incredibly helpful for failsafes, estimating timing, and trimming the fuel between rotors to compensate for air flow bias and fuel flow bias.
The tuner is just waiting for our word. We can't wait to hear her do a few pulls and feel this thing scream on open wastegates. Planning to start around 750rwhp and work our way up in power while we get used to the car, suspension etc. This is every penney of my own money and friends labor on the line, so we have to be very careful not to make mistakes, crash the car etc haha! So much torque and power already, I literally can't imagine what it will be like to drive on even 5psi!
I'm so thankful and amazed to be at this point on this date. Exactly 1 year ago to this date, the last car was sold. I started this project on exactly January 23rd. It feels like its been 10 years, even though its only been 10 months. Truly thankful for this experience. I've learned so much. Sometimes more than I've wanted to know. Lots of great times and lots of hard truths about myself and others. Its all been so worth it, and even to be able to know that this thing started as an absolute gutted crashed roller that now runs and drives is just so great to feel. Its hard to explain, but having thousands of hours of sacrifice into one object, it really is a bitter sweet feeling. I'm afraid to even drive it to be honest. Yet dying to at the same time.
To answer some of the questions above:
This is OEM transmission. Going to get it tuned and make sure all the systems and everything works and then proceed to either a TKO / T56 or HGT sequential. Tuning in next few weeks. We have 3x spare transmission in the meantime and changing them isn't a big deal to us for the time being. Hope to see around 5-10psi, make sure all is working well before deciding a direction to go for the transmission. Ultimately, we want to stay with the triple plate FD clutch and bell-housing design, so leaning towards the HGT sequential. This trans looks great for street and track use and doesn't have the loud wine as most sequentialls. They are also rated for 800+ftlbs of torque.
Finishing up a few odds and ends.
To keep fuel temps down and heatsoak out of the water cooled intake manifold, we made this shield tonight, set off from the fuel rail with nylon spacers
We replaced the turbine blanket with the Thermal Zero Titanium version. We also changed the axle seals on the differential which were leaking and adding small front mount cooler to help catch airflow for the water to air intake setup.
Last thing left to do is install the 4-Channel EGT sensors, 1/4in large ones to handle the heat. Bungs are already welded on the runners. We're waiting for the kit which will include the I/O Can Hub and Amplifier so that we may run it directly into the Racepak and Haltech. This is another reason we strongly love the Haltech. It always for so many connections through the CAN hub. We will be able to log EGT through the ECU and see on the Racepak, which should be incredibly helpful for failsafes, estimating timing, and trimming the fuel between rotors to compensate for air flow bias and fuel flow bias.
The tuner is just waiting for our word. We can't wait to hear her do a few pulls and feel this thing scream on open wastegates. Planning to start around 750rwhp and work our way up in power while we get used to the car, suspension etc. This is every penney of my own money and friends labor on the line, so we have to be very careful not to make mistakes, crash the car etc haha! So much torque and power already, I literally can't imagine what it will be like to drive on even 5psi!
I'm so thankful and amazed to be at this point on this date. Exactly 1 year ago to this date, the last car was sold. I started this project on exactly January 23rd. It feels like its been 10 years, even though its only been 10 months. Truly thankful for this experience. I've learned so much. Sometimes more than I've wanted to know. Lots of great times and lots of hard truths about myself and others. Its all been so worth it, and even to be able to know that this thing started as an absolute gutted crashed roller that now runs and drives is just so great to feel. Its hard to explain, but having thousands of hours of sacrifice into one object, it really is a bitter sweet feeling. I'm afraid to even drive it to be honest. Yet dying to at the same time.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 11-20-16 at 03:21 AM.
#811
OMG a Chupacabra!
iTrader: (26)
Not bad. Glad you finally have good pics
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
#812
Rx7 Wagon
iTrader: (16)
Not bad. Glad you finally have good pics
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
#813
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Huntsville, al
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm curious, did you notice that the intake is a combination intake and water/air intercooler? Normally I'd agree that the common quickly welded up box-manifolds are very "just make it work" but this thing actually has a very useful reason to be boxy. I like it.
#815
Not bad. Glad you finally have good pics
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
Lol you're a fun guy
#819
Full Member
iTrader: (5)
Not bad. Glad you finally have good pics
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick
This car should be a beast.
However, between your 3-rotor build and this 4-rotor build I have determined the following:
1) the 3-rotor looks better than the 4-rotor in the engine bay. Maybe because the 4-rotor intake manifold looks super ugly IMO (boxy when it should be foxy )
2) the 4-rotor has more of the "wow" factor and looks like its an actual swap vs. the 20b looking like it is at home in the bay.
I would like to know when you actually do track this beast how well that trans will hold up and how the brakes will do. I believe I made this comment before, but just was amazed after all that work and upgrades you decided to keep the stock brakes and the stock driveline.
-Nick