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I have access to Identifix, AllData, and the MAzda FSM. This is the reference photo I went by.
This should be the breather cap in question. They can get blocked. There is a tiny rubber plunger with a spring inside to keep it down. The pressure of the case expanding with heat should force it open without leaking from any seals.
I put down 310rwhp on a dynojet at 6.5 psi a couple weeks ago on our cast 7670 kit( FD3S pump gas, large street port by us). This was with the BW medium actuator with no controller, it does goto 8.5 psi in the midrange, and fades down to 6.5 psi. You just need the boost controller hooked up to fix this.
just got a set of new ID1700s back from injector dynamics today to replace my older versions (the first few batches of ID1700s have issues where they might fail closed). Very pleased with ID. They even sent me new pigtails with them which will help when I redo my harness this winter
Still working on intake v3...
also, the car was parked outside for a while, and I drove it into the garage and it still leaked gear oil everywhere, so I'm pretty sure it's not a vent issue (it had plenty of time for the pressure to equalize). The only thing I'm thinking is the new pinion seal I put in it leaking...
Finally got the rx7 back in the garage (the garage was being used to seal some new butcher block counters which took forever...)
I decided to fix the camber a bit on the car... the car has around -2.9-3.0* of camber in the front maxed out... and the rear (after fixing my subframe angle) has -1.9 on one side and -2.3 on the other... (passenger side was more)
so first I decided to take a page out of supernow's book and run different length rear camber links. I have the full ronin kit so it's not a big deal. Took the "1" out of the rear passenger side and swapped the bearings into a "2". I thought about taking even more camber out and running a 2 and a 3, but decided against it for now... at least not until I tune the car and get a lot more power...
hopefully that gets them a bit more even and around 2*....
Next I took a dremel to the front strut towers (which is now allowed in Street Modified ) Due to the design of my strut ears and the large bearings on my camber plates they max out at 3*... and I also wanted some more caster (which is around 6* if I recall correctly)
I think it turned out pretty well... I have a few more things to do while the car is in the air, so I haven't measured camber yet, hopefully it's a bit closer to -3.5* and I was able to max out the caster slots (in the plate mounting holes)
I also changed the oil for the first time since the rebuild... (it has 670 miles on it). opened up the filter and no shiny bits, so that's good
I aligned the car tonight. 1.7* of camber in passenger rear, 1.8* driver rear. I'm more than happy with that.
Also, front camber is up to -3.5* which is what I was hopping for. So that went well...
didn't measure caster yet... might have to borrow my friends lift and slip plates for that one, it makes it much easier.
smart strings in full effect:
Also, the paint on the wing end plates got completely trashed. most of it is probably due to them vibrating at speed: I took some sand paper too them to get the loose paint off:
gave them a couple more coats of paint.. but the old paint below is already starting to flake off.... I think I'll just get them powder coated over the winter.
I also threw some metal gaskets in my v-bands on the exhaust because they leak a bit...
the one at the end of the down pipe wasn't so bad because the vibrant v-bands have a step in them that you can sit it on. but the EFR turbo one doesn't so that was a bit more involved... we'll see how it sounds tomorrow.
I'm wearing the insides of my tires slightly more with -2.8 in front and -1.5 camber in back. I know we have different tires and setup but it seems odd to take some camber out based on where I'm at.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; Oct 23, 2016 at 09:27 AM.
I'm wearing the insides of my tires slightly more with -2.8 in front and -1.5 camber in back. I know we have different tires and setup but it seems odd to take some camber out based on where I'm at.
I'm still battling a push on the front of the car... my tire temps have been pretty even across the tire. From what I've read, you actually want the inside to be hotter. So we'll see what more camber does.
The rear is always going to be a compromise between turning grip and straight line grip. So I was just trying to make it even for now.
I'm still battling a push on the front of the car... my tire temps have been pretty even across the tire. From what I've read, you actually want the inside to be hotter. So we'll see what more camber does.
The rear is always going to be a compromise between turning grip and straight line grip. So I was just trying to make it even for now.
Double autocross event this weekend
Good luck this weekend.
Where is the push? On power? Off power? Entry or exit?
No push for me at all, The car is pretty well balanced. If I over cook it into a corner it will oversteer off power. In a long steady state corner it will cut slightly more with a little additional throttle then go into a 4 wheel slide with too much throttle.
Yea you are supposed to have the inside temps slightly hotter.. my inside 1/3 is about 20 degrees hotter. I have read that is mostly due to the outsides of the tire cooling more as you roll through the paddock etc.
I don't know if my wear is just these tires or what, but i'm wondering if I am giving up a little time. I had more even wear with NT01s with the same camber settings, yet tire temp spread was similar.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; Oct 24, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
Where is the push? On power? Off power? Entry or exit?
I guess it's mostly off power on corner entry. or maybe steady state. as soon as I get on power the rear comes around and I just counter steer a bit to catch it.
the major difference I see between our setups is I have a lot more steering angle dialed in, which will kill my front camber. more camber and more importantly caster should help with this.
Try to Stiffen the front springs a bit more then? You are running no rear sway bar, correct?
no rear sway, and no front sway
if this doesn't help I might step up the front springs over the winter... I'm already at 900 lbs/in though so I'm hesitant there. but might try and throw some 1100s on to see what happens.
if this doesn't help I might step up the front springs over the winter... I'm already at 900 lbs/in though so I'm hesitant there. but might try and throw some 1100s on to see what happens.
I knew you had no front sway bar.
1000s or 1100s front springs will fix it I bet.
I guess it's mostly off power on corner entry. or maybe steady state. as soon as I get on power the rear comes around and I just counter steer a bit to catch it.
Some of what you've described could also be the diff and how its set up. I had the chance to run my NA with an open differential and the clutch type locker, and the lsd gave me a lot of understeer off throttle on turn in.
Unpopular decision around here, but I actually prefer the open diff. I found the car is much more willing to rotate.
Some of what you've described could also be the diff and how its set up. I had the chance to run my NA with an open differential and the clutch type locker, and the lsd gave me a lot of understeer off throttle on turn in.
Unpopular decision around here, but I actually prefer the open diff. I found the car is much more willing to rotate.
This is one of the reasons I switched from an OS Giken 1.5 way clutch type diff (in the stock T2 housing) to a Torsen T2-R helical diff (in a ford 8.8).
This did help a decent amount, but the car still isn't where I want it to be.
that being said, the car makes way too much power for me to warrant an open diff. I think the torsen is the best of both worlds.
Off power a Torsen is effectively and open diff, and I have always liked them for keeping the car free on entry, and that I get back to the power sooner on exit.
I'm wondering if your recent camber adjustment may help. I have a feeling more front spring will improve the situation though.
Saturday: I let my buddy Larry (who does all my welding) drive the car again. This weekend my winning streak against him came to an end he got first in class, I got 4th in class a full second behind. Between us was a pretty monster evo (my car needs more power ) I got 33th in PAX out of 199 which isn't too bad...
The camber and caster changes seem to have helped the car a decent amount. turn in is much better.
Sunday: Larry beat me again... this time by 1.4 seconds, but I beat both drivers in the evo finishing second in class and 23rd in PAX.
We started playing with the wing during runs on Sunday, I started with the wing one click more AoA, and it felt much more stable than it did Saturday, we went one more click between runs and it got loose again, so we probably started stalling the second element (which moves with the first). I'll have to play around with both of their AoA in relation to eachother next year.
Some videos from Sunday (forgot the camera on Saturday):
I am sure the Evo owners disagree, but if you want it- more power is a tank of 104 away...
What is another $100 a weekend?
Awesome vids!
Both you guys look really fast.
More like an E85 tune away which is this winters project... flex fuel with fuel dependent boost control.
right now the car is running 10 psi wastegate pressure and falling down to 6 psi near redline... it might make 250 whp at this point if I'm lucky haha.
one of the STIs I run with makes 600+ wtq... so I'm definitely leaving some time on the table
Either way that thing will fly with more power.