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Vacuum Chamber Filled with Oil

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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 07:13 AM
  #26  
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From: Dallas
Originally posted by SleepR1
BTW, DamonB, do you think it's worth replacing the oil metering nozzles (oil injectors), as a possible cause that could explain the oil filling the vacuum chamber?
I don't think the OMP would even be sending that much oil to the injectors? Practically no oil would be going through the injectors and into the motor if that much was getting sucked out.
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 10:01 AM
  #27  
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Manny,

What kind of voltage do you see with the commander for the OMP? If its highlighted, then its on the fritz.
That would tell you if the signal is atleast correct, but not if they are leaking. Although if the OMP is going bad, and sending that much oil, wouldn't you need to be checking the oil level in the pan. Also if its pumping to much oil in, wouldn't the majority of it go out the exhaust or at least you'd notice the black smoke out the exhaust...so I don't think its the OMP.

Tim
Tim
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 12:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by DamonB
I don't think the OMP would even be sending that much oil to the injectors? Practically no oil would be going through the injectors and into the motor if that much was getting sucked out.
Yeah...I see your point...
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 12:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by Tim Benton
Manny,

What kind of voltage do you see with the commander for the OMP? If its highlighted, then its on the fritz.
That would tell you if the signal is atleast correct, but not if they are leaking. Although if the OMP is going bad, and sending that much oil, wouldn't you need to be checking the oil level in the pan. Also if its pumping to much oil in, wouldn't the majority of it go out the exhaust or at least you'd notice the black smoke out the exhaust...so I don't think its the OMP.

Tim
Tim
Tim, I have not looked at the voltage display on the OMP with the PFC Commander. What should the voltage read (if the OMP is working properly?). FWIW, I'm not losing much oil out of the oil pan. Oil level doesn't drop much below full (when I start with a full oil level) at the track. I have not been told that I'm blowing oil smoke out of the tail pipe, and I don't notice any upon start up.

BTW, the Crispy Cap and catch bottle are working as CrispyRx7 advertised. It's doing a great job venting the oil pan pressure, and not spewing oil all over the place, or filling the catch bottle. One little detail is is the swivel fitting does rub the hood slightly. You have to turn the fitting a certain direction to minimize the rubbing, but it's nothing a little touch up paint can't fix LOL

Last edited by SleepR1; Sep 4, 2003 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 12:36 PM
  #30  
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From: Cedartown, Ga
Manny,

The OMP voltage should be from 1 to 4.2 v according to page D-16 of the service manual. varies with load of course.

Tim
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 01:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by Tim Benton
Manny,

The OMP voltage should be from 1 to 4.2 v according to page D-16 of the service manual. varies with load of course.

Tim
Tim, thanks, I'll monitor the OMP voltage...
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:09 PM
  #32  
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Still impressed with the brakes? I'm getting the fronts during the group buy that Daniel put together.

Tim
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Tim Benton
Still impressed with the brakes? I'm getting the fronts during the group buy that Daniel put together.

Tim
Yup. Same Type RS calipers and rotors since April 2002. I suggest you get both fr and rr Type RS/RZ brakes if your budget allows, for maximum braking performance. Note that 17 inch diameter wheels will be a necessity with Type RS/RZ brakes.
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:28 PM
  #34  
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got the 99 spec rims from Jesse Lau last year so I'm set in that department. If I can swing the rears, I will, but I know I'm going to get the fronts. Are you still using the OEM 99 pads?

Sorry to change the thread on ya.

Tim
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #35  
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Yup, I have the Type RS pads on now. The EBC Greenstuffs are slightly better for track though...
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 10:11 AM
  #36  
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From: Chattanooga, TN
I thought I'd jump into this conversation...I am having primary turbo problems and thought it might be a similar problem. my boost pattern is

1st: 5-3-11
2nd: 6-4-11
3rd: 7-5-11
4th: 7-5-11
5th 9-7-11

It sounds similar to SleepR1's secondary turbo problem, and instead of starting an new thread, I thought Id ask your opinions in here.
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 11:57 AM
  #37  
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From: Boulder Colorado
Originally posted by DeaconFrost
I thought I'd jump into this conversation...I am having primary turbo problems and thought it might be a similar problem. my boost pattern is

1st: 5-3-11
2nd: 6-4-11
3rd: 7-5-11
4th: 7-5-11
5th 9-7-11

It sounds similar to SleepR1's secondary turbo problem, and instead of starting an new thread, I thought Id ask your opinions in here.
Seems more like you have a boost leak somewhere in your primary vacuum control system.
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 11:59 AM
  #38  
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heh...I have been replacing hoses left and right...I guess I need to replace some more.
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 10:01 PM
  #39  
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SleepR1, what exactly where the boost issue you experienced with the vac leak? I only run 10inHG at idle. Primary boost strong, secondary boost strong at transition but as rpm climbs boost drops off rapidly to about 5 psi. I'm thinking my chamber may be full of oil as well and will check tomorrow when I get the tools. Did you have a similar boost problem on the secondary?
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 02:25 PM
  #40  
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From: IN
Originally posted by Engberg
SleepR1, what exactly where the boost issue you experienced with the vac leak? I only run 10inHG at idle. Primary boost strong, secondary boost strong at transition but as rpm climbs boost drops off rapidly to about 5 psi. I'm thinking my chamber may be full of oil as well and will check tomorrow when I get the tools. Did you have a similar boost problem on the secondary?
Yes, a vacuum chamber filled with oil doesn't provide any vacuum for the turbo control actuator and solenoids to work properly, and preventing the secondary turbo boost pressure to come online. Check the your vacuum chamber's vacuum by using a hand-operated vacuum pump (available @ NAPA). It should take 20 strokes (1 stroke is up and down) to create 20 inches Hg from the chamber. If it takes only a few strokes you have a vacuum chamber full of oil!

Last edited by SleepR1; Dec 15, 2003 at 02:31 PM.
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