Eh, I read the first part of that thread and they were saying that the injectors were dumping too much fuel at startup due to a bad reading from a sensor. So revving or cutting the fuel when shutting down won't help that issue. I'd probably have a look at their solution before I'd start to look at the injectors, because leaky injectors would probably cause cold start issues too if they're leaking enough to compensate for the O2 rich cold air.

Shields is the only place around here I know of. Try the yellow pages?

 

who wants to meet up this saturday. if the weathers good, possible deals gap drive, then bbq.

 

Weather is supposed to be decent on Saturday. I'm broke. Guess why. Maybe I'll walk or skate on over

 

im up for a Deals drive...can support a passenger <.< got tunes and maybe a new mp3 cd if i get off my *** to make it. Hot air and icey ac...how i have ac still is beyond me.

 

im am up for a drive. When where and how long??? Just remember I have a hot start issue so no running into wally world for 5mins....

 

well id say the deals gap run is by no means a shorty trip BC...length of time is up to how long i wish to hear 18yr old suspension components creak and groan.

 

well the gap is pretty short.... kinda... 1hr 15min (at the speed limit no faster) from my house to the overlook. Least ya have a radio to mask the groans...

 

no sir...i have a stereo with subs >.> but still not loud enough to drown the turbo whine..and who ever said I did the speed limit?

 

ehhh then you can do it speeding safely... in about 55mins.... so what time and where are we meeting on saturday?

 

You will always get battery voltage if you connect your meter in series. You are removing the ground and putting the meter in the way, all 12 volts have to go through the meter.

If you want to see if you have a draw on your battery when you turn the car off, you have to do something a bit different.

First, get a friend to help. Then put your meter in amp mode (like 10A or something) with the leads in the corresponding spots. Then disconnect the negative battery cable and hold it against the negative terminal (still maintaining operational status of the vehicle). Then and only then can you connect the meter. Positive to the cable and negative to the battery. Have the friend either turn the ignition on or start the car, then get out and shut the car as if leaving overnight. Now you can remove the cable from the battery terminal. You should have a very small number. The spec for Bimmers is less than 0.050 amps. So it should be less than that for our cars. If everything is ok, then touch the cable back to the terminal and then, and only then, remove your meter. Doing so removes the possibility of frying your meter with an electrical spike - you know that spark when you disconnect your battery? That'd be bad for the insides of your meter.

Hope that helps. PM me if you need help.

 

yea i tried that but.... wasnt to serious about it.... Guess I need to get serious so I dont have to disconnet my battery every time I turn it off so I can start it the next day.... LAME! I will figure this all out soon enough. Sooner rather than later I hope.

 

Good luck then.

I thought my battery was going out last year, but it turned out to be the starter after it was all said and done.

 

Hm, I'm off Saturday I don't know about a drive to deals on such short notice. but if it's only a short trip away then eh why not. I guess.

Question: Today I was at a stop and like usual my idle was surging. Usually if it's surging or idling high. All I have to do is turn my steering wheel and it drops to 750. Well I didn't so I had this idea to hold the brake but let up on the clutch a little to drop it.. and that worked. It started idling and 750. Anyway, What in the hell is the problem?

 

Oh good, an electrical guru... I'm off the hook! What symptoms did you have to lead you to believe it was the battery? I might be having the same problem. If I leave my FC sitting for more than a day, the battery doesn't have enough power to turn the motor fast enough to start. It sounds really sad. headlights will pop up... slowly... and dimly. Battery seems to charge fine with the alternator. I can jump it off another car, run it around for a half an hour, kill it and it'll start right up as long as I don't leave it sitting for hours on end. I don't think it's being drained though because it never completely dies, there's always enough juice to dimly light my interior or at least click the starter.

Yeti, I've had the same issue with two FC's now (one without A/C or P/S). I would guess it's a faulty TPS. I've also had instances where the rod connecting the OMP to the throttle has kept the throttle open. That should only be an issue on S4 cars.

 

Revving or cutting the fuel pump when shutting down will prevent flooding from leaking injectors. Using the fuel pump switch while starting should also help.

I was also responding to your post about shutting off the car.

 

well my car is a s5 vert. But yeah, I have the codes 12 and 18.. I think it's 12 and 18 it's the narrow and wide throttle codes.. so if any one has a cache of tps or just a few I'd like to maybe try a few.

 

What time on Saturday? I might be able to make it depending on when you all are going.

 

Wouldn't leaky injectors just flood the motor as soon as the fuel pump is turned on? I'll give that a shot from now on though, maybe it'll save me some floods. Last April, the TII flooded at Deals Gap during the rally and like 5 people immediately rushed over, telling me to pull fuses, floor the gas, dance around the car, etc.

TPS's are expensive and probably hard to get a hold of used because they last about as long as birthday candles. You could try to adjust it back to spec with a multimeter set to read resistance.

 

WELL GUYS, i'm going to have to slap myself on the back of my head for over looking this post so many damn times. I recall someone saying this was a really old post so, I didn't consider paying attention to the very begining. Well anyway, I reckon I'll see you all tomorrow!

 

well i found a semi electrical problem... which allows me to have a radio that works! Woohoo! radio! maybe that was my draining battery problem. We shall see tomorrow morning around 1000am at the bestbuy parking lot to make the trip to the gap??? Also the rev to 3k....then shut the fuel pump off.... makes it start when hot... woohoo!.... things are actually working for me lately!

 

Glad things are working out... so we're meeting? When and where?

 

I just need a time, i HAVE to change the oil in the t2....3500 miles and counting

 

how about the back of lowes parkinglot near the bestbuy? should be pretty empty around 10am?

 

eek...means ill be up all night waiting then. lessee...up and outside round 8...change oil..on the road by 9:30 to ktown..

 

10 am sounds good,.. back of bestbuy. See u there.