jamesahokas

hey guys i finally got my car back together last night and test fired it for the first time since owning it. it would fire up right away but then die 2 seconds later, i could keep the car running if the gas pedal was slightly pressed down, i just installed my rtek 2.1 and switched the values to run the larger injectors. is there a base map i can follow just to get it to run and idle properly? i also came across a few possible vacuum issues however even after looking at diagrams cannot quite tell whats going on. anyways according to a picture i found online the way that my vacuum lines are incorrect here. can anyone confirm this?



i have the primary air bleed hooked up to the top nipple on the upper intake on the side. the second air nipple is capped and im using the bottom air nipple directly for my boost gauge.

i also just noticed today that i have a nipple that is open on the middle iron DS. and i dont see any hoses that it would connect too



and lastly an open nipple on the oil feed tube ive seen this one run to an oil catch can before but can it just be capped?



the motor is an s4 88 motor

MODS DONE
-rtek 2.1
-750cc injectors
-full straight exhaust
- new cone filter
-full emissions delete
-omp delete, running strictly premix
i also have a wideband to read my afr

anyways any help would be great im very green to rotaries, last night was the first time starting it and when i couldnt get it to stay running i figured it would be better to ask. thanks!

Wms10th

iTrader: (2)

Mine wouldn't run either until I switched the injector setting to 550/720. It wouls not run on 720/720 unless I made the mixture full rich(+20%). I switched to 550/720 and that is where it is today.

jamesahokas

hmm ok maybe i will give that a shot once i find out what to do with those nipples

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

those nipples are crank case vents, you can cap one, and leave the upper open, or put a catchcan/breather filter. i have my lower capped and my upper reduced to a 1/8 inch hole. with both capped your turbo/engine would likely smoke.

jamesahokas

perfect thanks the car is going to be track only so ill be changing the oil after every event im not to worried about a proper pcv setup it just seemed like a large vacuum leak was the outcome of having both open.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

You say full emissions delete...are you counting BACV and cold idle thermowax in with that group?

jamesahokas

no the bacv is still on there and the thermowax is gone from the looks of it but it seems like the opening on the side of the throttle body is not blocked off in anyway. the adjustment screw for the bacv looks to be threaded in pretty far. anyways today i tried to start it up again and upon startup on the 720/720 mode it will start and get a reading of 12.1 on my wideband and then it just dies out(2-4sec) and reads up to 17 on my wideband upon dieing out. i dont know if its getting too much fuel and choking its self out or what. so i tried it on the 550/720 setting and at first it died, tried it again and it would stay idling at a high idle of 2000rpm at 20 in/hg and read between 14-16 on the wideband upon pressing gas peddle this afr would change to about 13. again im running 750cc primarys and secondaries and am a total noob when it comes to this car and rotaries in general. i havent touched the fuel map at all. if someone has a visual of their fuel map running close to the same setup as i am that would be great for a referance point. im a visual learner lol and have never played with tuning on a vehicle before. any help would be amazing thanks.

jamesahokas

i also forgot to mention that with the key on engine off that the bacv sounds like its making a ticking noise. if it would help i can make a full video tomorrow to show exactly whats going on.

Bearzah

iTrader: (6)

Either you MAF has failed, is unplugged or you have a huge vacuum leak between turbo and MAF.. Been there... EXACT same symtoms... Check it...

jamesahokas

ok ill check it out tomorrow thanks for the response!

jamesahokas

ok so i checked the hose between the maf and the turbo and found that on the bottom side of the hose there is quite a large split most likely leaking quite bad. i just ordered a new hardpipe one from corksport. ill be sure to post a follow up, hopefully this fixes it.

jamesahokas

just pressurized the intake and found that the grommets underneath the primary injectors are leaking like crazy clearly seen with soapy water. ordered 4 new grommets from mazdatrix, should have done it in the first place.