tuning issue with rtek or vacuum leak?
hey guys i finally got my car back together last night and test fired it for the first time since owning it. it would fire up right away but then die 2 seconds later, i could keep the car running if the gas pedal was slightly pressed down, i just installed my rtek 2.1 and switched the values to run the larger injectors. is there a base map i can follow just to get it to run and idle properly? i also came across a few possible vacuum issues however even after looking at diagrams cannot quite tell whats going on. anyways according to a picture i found online the way that my vacuum lines are incorrect here. can anyone confirm this?
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0663.jpg i have the primary air bleed hooked up to the top nipple on the upper intake on the side. the second air nipple is capped and im using the bottom air nipple directly for my boost gauge. i also just noticed today that i have a nipple that is open on the middle iron DS. and i dont see any hoses that it would connect too http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/...kas/nipple.jpg and lastly an open nipple on the oil feed tube ive seen this one run to an oil catch can before but can it just be capped? http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/.../oilfiller.jpg the motor is an s4 88 motor MODS DONE -rtek 2.1 -750cc injectors -full straight exhaust - new cone filter -full emissions delete -omp delete, running strictly premix i also have a wideband to read my afr anyways any help would be great im very green to rotaries, last night was the first time starting it and when i couldnt get it to stay running i figured it would be better to ask. thanks! |
Mine wouldn't run either until I switched the injector setting to 550/720. It wouls not run on 720/720 unless I made the mixture full rich(+20%). I switched to 550/720 and that is where it is today.
|
Originally Posted by Wms10th
(Post 11204645)
Mine wouldn't run either until I switched the injector setting to 550/720. It wouls not run on 720/720 unless I made the mixture full rich(+20%). I switched to 550/720 and that is where it is today.
|
Originally Posted by jamesahokas
(Post 11204663)
hmm ok maybe i will give that a shot once i find out what to do with those nipples
|
Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
(Post 11204708)
those nipples are crank case vents, you can cap one, and leave the upper open, or put a catchcan/breather filter. i have my lower capped and my upper reduced to a 1/8 inch hole. with both capped your turbo/engine would likely smoke.
|
You say full emissions delete...are you counting BACV and cold idle thermowax in with that group?
|
Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
(Post 11205575)
You say full emissions delete...are you counting BACV and cold idle thermowax in with that group?
|
i also forgot to mention that with the key on engine off that the bacv sounds like its making a ticking noise. if it would help i can make a full video tomorrow to show exactly whats going on.
|
Either you MAF has failed, is unplugged or you have a huge vacuum leak between turbo and MAF.. Been there... EXACT same symtoms... Check it...
|
Originally Posted by Bearzah
(Post 11206108)
Either you MAF has failed, is unplugged or you have a huge vacuum leak between turbo and MAF.. Been there... EXACT same symtoms... Check it...
|
ok so i checked the hose between the maf and the turbo and found that on the bottom side of the hose there is quite a large split most likely leaking quite bad. i just ordered a new hardpipe one from corksport. ill be sure to post a follow up, hopefully this fixes it.
|
just pressurized the intake and found that the grommets underneath the primary injectors are leaking like crazy clearly seen with soapy water. ordered 4 new grommets from mazdatrix, should have done it in the first place.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:14 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands