rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

How is it so different?

At 2800-3000 my car acts funny and your car acts funny.

The only difference is our mods

boost_its_what_for_dinner

no our cars have the issue between cruising throttle between 2-3k
not just 2800-3000 and as the wankler staed we ahave a missfire/fuel cut like symptom, not hesitation, only during this light throttle application does it occur.

what we need to do is narrow downj what all is being used and turn on and off during the cruise (like what sensors and ecu functions?)

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

when i had staging set for 3krpm or so, my secondary stumble was REALLY bad.. the higher I set it, the better.. i suppose because typically the p/w's are longer at higher rpm at staging boost levels, reducing the leanouts, which also supports the theory that the staging hesitation is NOT an rtek problem. instead caused by running peak&hold style injector with a saturation-style injector driver

although some people have the staging problem on stock injectors due to bad grounds, but still not an rtek problem

the 2 problems are completely different.. the staging problem only happens at the staging points (>staging rpm and 0 boost). The cruising hesitations only happen in vacuum at 2.5k-3k rpm, secondaries will never turn on unless you are above 0psi

the thing is, if you look at the rtek logs during the cruising hesitation, there is nothing crazy going on in the injector p/w log.. i am getting afr in the 18's in the hesitation spots, you would think you would see somehting in the injector log showing subtantially smaller p/w, but you dont. I really dont think that it is the fuel map like hailers suggested, b/c it will be cruising along fine at 13's afr, then alll the sudden it stumbles and AFR drops to 18's, but at the SAME rpm, vacuum, afr, tps, etc I would think if it was the fuel map, it would run like crap all the time in that area, but it doesnt.. its intermittent

somebody should start a poll or somthing describing mods for those with the cruising hesitations, maybe it has to do with the 720/720 fuel preset? the cruising problem actually started happening to me when i switched from the 550/720 to 720/720 preset.. and i have +10% fuel added in vacuum, all rpms on 750cc primaries

Is anybody getting the cruising hesitations on stock primaries?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I ran stock primaries and ECU two days ago. When the car warmed up. problem came back.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

i have the ecu set on 550/720 but im running 720/1000, so technically i should be richer than bill gates... all through the rpms

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying it applies to you, just clarifying for the sake of everyone.. yes you are adding more fuel with those injectors and settings, but there are other variables (boost, turbo, port work, etc) that can cause that fuel to be used and you'd still run lean.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

but under high vacuum ?? or light throttle?? yes i have a streetport but wouldnt i have a issue under boost more than under vacuum?

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Remember porting is just like changing cams on a piston engine. It changes the way the engine "breathes", AKA, its volumetric efficiency at all RPM ranges. While the AFM should compensate for this somewhat, it still may not be optimal.

What I've noticed is even a street port will greatly increase the part throttle fuel requirements.

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

I'm not talking about your car, I said Wankler and Unless he got this fixed

https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/update-my-2800rpm-buck-669459/

Then we both have similar problems.


This is not the 3800 hesitation. I am like everyone else...I just want to get the problem fix and enjoy my car. I never said the issue was just between 2800 and 3000k. I said my issue and his issue happens around the same rpm range.

There might be two problems...but the fix is probably going to kill 2 birds with one stone.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

We have similar problems. I have been kinda burnt out the last couple days to work on it. I will be back from vacation this Saturday and start working on it again. For you and I, seems to be a temp issue. Could be the Thermo Temp Sensor. ????????? Ill hit the wrecker and get a few things to swap out.

I like you, just want to drive my car without ANY wired little ticks. I could just ramp riht past the tick I am getting, but why. Spent too much time for that. Would you mind unplugging Thermo Temp Sensor and see what happens?
Chris

piercdawg

I have not played or used an Rtek yet, but my expirience as a smog tech when a car (ANY VEHICLE) has CTS (coolant temp sensor) issues, its usually because the sensor is out of range. & I have NEVER had it happen that a car runs LEANER cause of a temp sensor issue. It always runs PIG RICH. at ANY RPM, & it ussually has trouble starting & idling. If it was a Temp sensor isue it would be through out the entire rpm band. idle to redline. It wouldnt matter if it was cold or not. If the temp sensor was bad (out of range, or open) using an ohm meter, it would think that it was way colder that it actually is like -32 degrees, therfore adding way too much extra fuel. This problem is probably cause by a AFM (air flow meter), Map sensor, tps adjustment since the almost never go bad.

I had a similar problem on a S4 that I am workin on. It was basically stock, full exhaust, S5 turbo, Fed secondarys first, ceramic clutch flywheel, walbro, greddy boost conrtoller, all emmisions removed, NEW TPS. We had a slight detonation under light throttle. We actually ended up cracking the rear plate.

We replaced it with a s5 rear iron, & now added 720 secondarys, a stage 3 BNR turbo from the s5 that was on there. I was going to add a SAFC Neo, but now am looking for a Rtek 2.0. Its now running, but have not driven it yet due to a BAC valve/idle problem. & its probably not a good idea to be running that BNR setup with the stock ECU. Hense the Rtek is now in progress.

I suggest replacing the AFM witha known good part, if not that then the MAP sensor. GOOD LUCK GUYS, I'll be checkin in.

HAILERS

With a RTEK all one has to do to see if the water thermo sensor is working or not ......is to simply look at the water temperature on the RTEK. The water temperature FOR the RTEK display,is taken from the water thermo sensor. If you see 180* give or take, it's working good (the water thermo sensor).

And if one of the sensors wires is open, the ECU defaults to 176*F, so you'd notice no problem if the engine is already warmed up.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

[QUOTE=
I like you, just want to drive my car without ANY wired little ticks. I could just ramp riht past the tick I am getting, but why. Spent too much time for that. Would you mind unplugging Thermo Temp Sensor and see what happens?
Chris[/QUOTE]


no doubt.. i just want it torun smooth at cruising speeds not pop and buck every now and then hesistate.