Rtek timing question
#1
timing question
is it ok if the trailing timing is in the negative. im running my timing conservatively and the split is about where its supposed to be.
the reason why i ask is ive been having a fair amount of hesitation under vacuum and very low boost. it feels like im riding a damn horse. it goes away when boost builds. anyone had this.
the reason why i ask is ive been having a fair amount of hesitation under vacuum and very low boost. it feels like im riding a damn horse. it goes away when boost builds. anyone had this.
#3
yeah, sounds like the same thing. this really started happening when i first put my rtek in, didnt do it when i had my ecu unchipped. whats happening to fix this? and more importantly what is causing this?
has it done it to anyone when taking off from a stop?
has it done it to anyone when taking off from a stop?
#11
FKITALL
iTrader: (14)
You have the "Transistion Stumble". Some of us others are experiencing a similar amongst ourselves, but different then yours. We are having a issiue in the 2-3k range.
I went back to stock, no luck guys., Once the car warmed up, smae problem. Tried both, Stock and RTEK. It was fine, UNTIL IT WARMED UP. Like some others are having once warm.
So, what about the "Water Thermo Sensor"? I do remember swaping mine out some time ago.
This seems to be a tempature issue for some.
#12
RotoriousRx7
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
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temp plays a big role in mine too. i have my o2 unplugged and its running way better but when i plug it back in it goes back to being hesitant and stumble like.
#13
destroy, rebuild, repeat
iTrader: (1)
well my problem seems to be exact opposite scenarios than you guys.. it gets WORSE with the o2 unplugged, and seems to happen more when COLD, although it happens when warmed up too
and i wouldnt blame rtek right away, as we are driving 20 year old cars.. as soon as i get mine up and running again, im have a new tps to swap on and then im going to try a different AFM
and i wouldnt blame rtek right away, as we are driving 20 year old cars.. as soon as i get mine up and running again, im have a new tps to swap on and then im going to try a different AFM
#16
You have the "Transistion Stumble". Some of us others are experiencing a similar amongst ourselves, but different then yours. We are having a issiue in the 2-3k range.
I went back to stock, no luck guys., Once the car warmed up, smae problem. Tried both, Stock and RTEK. It was fine, UNTIL IT WARMED UP. Like some others are having once warm.
So, what about the "Water Thermo Sensor"? I do remember swaping mine out some time ago.
This seems to be a tempature issue for some.
I went back to stock, no luck guys., Once the car warmed up, smae problem. Tried both, Stock and RTEK. It was fine, UNTIL IT WARMED UP. Like some others are having once warm.
So, what about the "Water Thermo Sensor"? I do remember swaping mine out some time ago.
This seems to be a tempature issue for some.
#17
RotoriousRx7
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
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well mines all hooked up but has anyone unplugged the sensor on the back of the water pump housing?? that could be the culprit? as temp is the leading factor for all wether cold or hot
#19
FKITALL
iTrader: (14)
i forgot to mention too that mine hesitates only when hot. it runs perfect when cold. so if you went back to stock and it didnt help it has to be the thermal sensor then? what else would change with temperature? has anyone replaced the thermal sensor? what about the one on the bottom of the radiator? mine is disconnected.
THe one at the bootom of the Rad I believe is a cold start feature, or warm up. I think it hold the idle high for a few seconds till the water hits a cetain temp. Mine is coupled. I have a Koyo Rad and it did not come with the bung for that sensor.
#20
RotoriousRx7
Join Date: Oct 2005
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i have a koyo and it has the bung for it.. atleast the radiator says koyo but it doesnt look like a real koyo its jdm crap prolly but it has the bungs. would unplugging that do anything. wheres the sensor for the temp. gauge?
#22
Turbovert done.
iTrader: (11)
The biggest problem:
is it a Rtek problem or a CAR problem.
If its Rtek problem what actions will they take. I can see it being a car problem...but its odd that NO one can figure it out.
All I know is something happens before the secondaries come on. Something critical at this point is suppose to happen or not happen.
is it a Rtek problem or a CAR problem.
If its Rtek problem what actions will they take. I can see it being a car problem...but its odd that NO one can figure it out.
All I know is something happens before the secondaries come on. Something critical at this point is suppose to happen or not happen.
#23
FKITALL
iTrader: (14)
The biggest problem:
is it a Rtek problem or a CAR problem.
If its Rtek problem what actions will they take. I can see it being a car problem...but its odd that NO one can figure it out.
All I know is something happens before the secondaries come on. Something critical at this point is suppose to happen or not happen.
is it a Rtek problem or a CAR problem.
If its Rtek problem what actions will they take. I can see it being a car problem...but its odd that NO one can figure it out.
All I know is something happens before the secondaries come on. Something critical at this point is suppose to happen or not happen.
#24
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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As far as I'm concerned, the hesitation at 3800 rpm is nothig BUT a car problem and nothing else. Period.
This hesitation below 3000 rpm *sounds* a lot like someone has removed fuel at that general range and has it so lean it *hesitates*. I never experience it at all so I can't say for sure ...since I don't have it. I sounds like more fuel needs to be ADDED at that particular range of rpms.
And I never bought into the RTEK suggestion to lower the transition point for the secondarys. Not a believer in that at all.
This hesitation below 3000 rpm *sounds* a lot like someone has removed fuel at that general range and has it so lean it *hesitates*. I never experience it at all so I can't say for sure ...since I don't have it. I sounds like more fuel needs to be ADDED at that particular range of rpms.
And I never bought into the RTEK suggestion to lower the transition point for the secondarys. Not a believer in that at all.