Well, I hooked a volt meter to my Front Secondary (3H) wire on my ecu and drove around. The voltage moved from 13.64-13.67. Pretty steady. Then I hooked the volt meter to the Front Primary (3E) and the voltage starts at 13.25 (idle) and will drop as low as 11.**. The closer I get to 2800rpm the voltage drops lower. When it bucks the worst is when it hits the 11.** volts. What controls the vols to the Injectors?

3C Rear Primary Voltage drops 13v - 11** Volts
3E Front Primary Voltage drops 13v - 12** Volts

3F Rear Secondary Steady Voltage 13.5 Volts
3H Front Secondary Staedy Voltage 13.5 Volts

 

im not sure what that shows, you probably already know this, but it wont be a steady dc value, b/c its a pwm signal. if your meter is averaging it out, then the lower the voltage, the longer teh injector turn-on time

the pos side of the injectors are always wired to ~13v through the Main relay, when the key is turned. The ecu will ground the neg side of the injector using a PWM signal (at 3E and 3C for the primaries), causing it to turn on according to a calculated on-time. So when the ecu is not turning on the injector, you should see battery voltage. when it is on, you will see 0 volts.

a portable o'scope would work better.. i have one at work i could borrow. Id like to see if the pulsewidths match the rtek logs during the hesitations

but my TII is down currently, the turbo is off at BNR for a rebuild

 

It seems to drain as I build up to 2800 rpm. I understand the voltage could fluxuate a bit, but a 2-3 volt drop seems alot. Man this 2800 tick is killing me.

 

Yeah, you cant measure volts with a DMM because it's being switched on and off. If you went WOT while measuring the secondaries, you will see the voltage drop like the primaries. It's not really dropping, but rather being pulled to ground and the DMM is averaging that signal.

 

OK, I understand that now. But how much of a voltage drain is reasonable to the injectors? A few .points or a few volts?

 

As measured where?

 

At idle, measured at pin (3C) on the ecu the voltage reads around 13.25 +- . Once I start to cruise up to 3k, the voltage steadly drops as low as 11.-+ volts. Once I get above 3k the volts smooth out around 13 again..

It happens from 1k-3k, the worst being around 2800.k

 

I understand this is normal. Thanks for the help.

 

I don't understand...how is this normal?

 

i dont know anything.... but something is causing this and we need to solve it. i drove about 20 miles on the interstate and noticed that only when engine is full operating temp. and when im between 15-7 inhg while between 2-3k it does this, also im confused about the atp sensor? should the box be check? and is there something that im supposed to disconnect (i.e. the idle rich/lean device next to boost sensor)

 

The current is drawn from the injectors as you gain load. That is how it is supposed to work.

Now, on a new note. I found one of my secondary injectors was grounding out a bit on the ecu wire (3h), Green with red stripe wire. I found this out by disconnecting the main grounds under the UIM, connecting one side of the volt meter (on OHM test) to the ground wires and the other to the 4 inj wires going into the ecu ( the ecu plugs where disconencted as well). Three of the ECU wires showed no signs of grounding , but one did . So, I had to rip apart the main harness and re-run some wires. I did all my inj wires over. Now I see no sign of a crosswire. Not sure if this is my problem being I have not started the car, but feels right this time. I would check all grounds over.

 

btu ifthe grounds were bad wouldnt that affect all ranges of the injectors not just cruise? and 2-3k ? see also my diag. mode will some times say bad o2 dont know why it does this sometimes

 

well is there anymore on this from digital tuning like glitches or program issues?

 

Hmmm, what kind of 02 you useing? I swaped CPU's still get it. I am thinking it is my maf.

 

see i thought that this whole time,but i dont have one to test it. my o2 is just a universal 1 volt

 

I am looking for one right now.

 

is it possible that we all have bad afms? if so i think the afm delete needs to be priority then

 

You and I have a different problem then the thread about the 3800 transition.

 

> also im confused about the atp sensor? should the box be check?

Have you read the section in the manual about it? This is the one thing that we tell you that you MUST set up before you drive the car. Apparently the big orange piece of paper wrapped around the ECU when we ship it that said "WARNING" went unnoticed....

The truth is out there, Neo. It's looking for you and it will find you, if you RTM.

 

umm maybe i havent told you that i got this used from icecreaman on this forum and maybe i didnt get that juvenile orange wrapper.
but what i dont understand is what application do you not not use the atp? also can the o2 reading get out of wack if it gets to hot?? like say its bad and then it gets worse when it reaches operating temps? i might try running with out it

 

Since I can't get you to go to the manual, I will bring the manual to you.



Please, I beg you, read the whole manual. You will enjoy the Rtek much more.

http://www.pocketlogger.com/instruct...cketlogger.pdf

 

I've never seen an o2 go bad when it's hot. They need heat to operate.

 

dude i have this in front me right now.......
but my question is under what circumstances would you not check the box? also i have read this thing plenty of times. so now what is the atp? how do i know that i have it hooked up(is it the boost sensor,cause thats about all i have hooked up )

 

i only ask because my car seems to get worse the longer i drive it

 

You would check the box if you wanted to use the ATP input to log an external sensor like a wideband.