jdmrbust

I just got my rtek 2.0 yesterday, a few days after i paid for it they sent me an email with an attachment- then i got the ecu. I will be installing it tomorrow and my turbo will be here monday. I'll let you know from there how it goes, but so for the software installed on the palm with out a glitch and is fun to play with.

sublime42o

Had a lot of problems with stylus calibration, but found a program that auto runs the stylus calibration after every soft reset (one simple press of the reset button). It's called ReDigi 1.0 and can be found at ww.palmgear.com (after a simple free registration).

Tom

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I apologize for some of the confusion. Just before the release, we decided to do away with the registration process, which was supposed to make things easier. The problem is I forgot to change the manual to refelect that you no longer had to register in order to get the software. This was the source of a lot of confusion and has since been updated.

AOL and hotmail love to eat our emails for some reason, especially if they have an attachment. We have started putting information notices in the boxes for those that get their ECU and are wondering where the software is. This should help eliminate a lot of the problems.

-Mike

JasonL

Guess that's what happens when one of us Canadians design something eh...

HAILERS

Darn Furriners at it again with that celcius thing.

AuggieDogg ........my starter box checkes when the key is put to Start. I'd take a look at pin 3B and see if your getting voltage when the key is put to Start.

I'm still playing with my Palm when i get time. I'm facinated with the Lead and Trail timing. When viewing them on the palm they go to -25* whenever you start the engine, then as you idle the cold engine they are both retarded to ???? * and then gradually come to the -5 and -20* as they should. When driving at a steady speed they both read the same but under thottle they split or if you let off the throttle the trail goes towards zero.......all sorts of fun things

Just having fun and not doing anything serious with it., yet.

X-JaVeN-X

Well this is sounding better. Can a wideband be hooked into this setup anyway for datalogging? Where's the best place for a list of features that it offers?

HAILERS

At the bottom of this page: http://www.digitaltuning.com/index.php?pid=rtek7v2deth

And lets say you didn't already have a wideband. Look at the site and they teamed up with Zeitronix who make a wideband and they use a Palm to view the output of the Zeitonix wideband. There's more to it than that, that's just the small part I remember.

And for the curious that have one of these, here's something to do.........with a cold engine, say in the morning, take a look at the duty cycle as you start the car.

Then later, once the engine is warm/hot, do the same thing again and compare those figures with the earlier ones. Quite a difference, eh? Yeah.

It's more accurate to do this with a fuel cut switch in the off position so you get a good look at the duty cycle before the engine starts.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Yes I hooked up my wideband using the ATP sensor as they state. It works great! HOWEVER it reads as a 0-255 255 being full lean and 0 being full rich. 0v-5v. Its kinda cool/weird. I make a run and see that im pulling say 8.5 PSI then look down at the AFR and see that it reads 30. Which is pretty rich. Thankfully I have a PLX Gauge on my a piller just to make sure. I've got this thing runing really rich for safty right now as im pretty much just using it do figure out a buch of other problems.

Example my starter switch button. it works but its delayed. but i need to work on that some more.

X-JaVeN-X

sounds good

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

the wideband readings are kinda weird...im really glad you guys are playin with these to get a good understanding so when others (like me ) have questions you know what the hell to do!!

Henrik

The ATP input is a general purpose input which is why it reads in "generic"
units. Its actually giving you the raw digitized value of the voltage at the
input pin. to convert to volts: v = (value / 255) * 5.0. On my car, I use it
for WBO2 and fuel pressure.

We'll be adding the ability to describe a conversion equation so that the
display is a little more human friendly. Install of a new version of the Palm
software, when ready, is all that will be needed to install.

-Henrik

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

I knida figured you would make a conversion for it. Are you going to do it to read volts? Or possible programable (by us if needed) to read AFR ?

So for i actually like it more for the Diagnosing isues. I found out that my O2 sensor is outa wack (3.3 volts), my starter switch reads at odd times. and a buncha other cool stuff.

The flood kill is great!
The fcd is great!
The fuel settings are good (wished they went just a tad lower rmp wise)
and EVENTUALLY the timing will be fantastic.

Thanks

Mindspin311

Make An S5 Version Already!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAILERS

Sooooooooo.........Augiedoggie or other RTEK2.0 owner, I notice the afm air temp reads 45degrees (C* I assume) when driving to work. That seems high unless it's heat soak off the body of the afm. So I'm asking you what you read after driving the car for a few miles. It's around 80F air temp today in the big city.

Also the TPS reads 20 percent at idle. Well, I guess 1vdc is 20% of five vdc. That would explain that. It might be a better situation if the 1vdc could have been converted to ZERO percent. Not a biggie if you know the tps should read 1vdc at idle and the voltage range of the tps is 0-5vdc.

It would have been better if the temperatures were all in F* instead of C*. I believe there will be more USA buying the product than *others*.

If someone is thinking about buying a SAFC, I'd say pay the few bucks more for a RTEK2.0. Hands down a better deal.

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

I'll post some numbers up after I get back from FL in a week and get it installed. I want to compare some of my numbers against what others are pulling also.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

what about the fuel map..doesnt it go to only like 15 points above and below stock?? im not positive of that number as im going off of memory...is this enough?? you could prob. switch it to 550/550 and adjust this way if it isnt but i am curious??

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I don't mind celcius if you know where your temps are supposed to be. The first time reading my microtech sucked but after I relized they where supposed to be within this and this degree C*it makes it much easier. Plus on my elcheapo 60 dollar cell phone there was a c* to f* converter

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

We will be putting the option to choose the units in the next release as well as user configurable scaling for the analog input so it will display usable numbers instead of 0-255.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

I'm still having that weird voltage problem with my o2 sensor. I bypassed the stock wiring and hooked my O2 sensor right into the ECU (conector 2d) so i know that it isnt a short.

The Rtek still reads 3.3 or so volts after warm up. When i check the voltage at the point where i conected the o2 wire to the ECU wire it reads about .5-.6 volts which is where it should be.

So can any of you new Rtek guys check your o2 voltage for me?

Im going to call Digital Tuning on Monday, unless turboo2ltr is reading this, and see if they can figure it out.

Henrik

The O2 sensor input has an amplifier in the ECU which mults by 5.
So the 3.3v or so is normal (0.5-0.6 x 5). I've been running on the
WBO2 for so long, I haven't looked at this input for a long time. Its
of course obvious now that the display should remove this internal
scaling. It will be in the next update of the pocketLogger SW (which
will also add ATP scaling and configurable units (metric/imperial).

-Henrik

HAILERS

I already wrote them Friday. When I saw figures above one volt, like 2 to 3vdc and everything inbetween, you could tell there was something amiss. I could look at the other readings, like the injector pulse width, water temp etc and they were well within reason. Just the O2 waaaay off scale.

Thanks HENRIK for the response and Mike M.

AND I figured out why AOL folk don't get the Attachments mentioned in the earlier posts on this thread. If you don't have the right AOL service (more money), then you can't send or recieve attachments in your AOL mail. Duh! Gotta get rid of AOL........someday.

Also, I got a message from Mike M that they will be sending a updated programm in the next day or so to remedy this O2 glitch.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=517506

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Got the new software today and that solved that problem. O2 is reading fine. The metric/iperial setting is nice. The AFR setting for the ATP is GREAT!!!!!! makes life very very easy.

Thanks for the quick update.

MrDirt

Hey guys, I posted this on TeamFC yesterday, but I thought I'd post it here too before making a new thread.

"I'm in a bit of a dilemma right now with trying to finish my car. I had been spending nearly all of my money on it, but recently other interests have been consuming more and more of my funds. My previous plans were to run a "mild" half-bridge motor with a Microtech LT8S. I already had basically all of the parts, including the ECU, but due to a lack of funds I was forced to sell it. I also already have my irons done, and I've spent so much time getting them perfect that I'd hate to sell them and have to spend more time doing a streetport on another set of irons.

I've reaquired a stock ECU and all that junk, and I was planning on doing some street port irons for it until I realized that the Rtek 2.0 is finally out. For the details of the system, check http://www.pocketlogger.com/?pid=rtek7v2deth . I realize that the system wont be as good for the half bridge as the microtech would have been, but for the price, it seems like it could be plenty capable. The AFM is an obvious drawback. The 10x10 fuel map certainly seems to be a minor downfall, but from what I've gathered reading around this forum, it seems that timing control is the bigger concern when tuning a half BP. The 2.0 has two 19x20 maps for ignition correction, which to my knowledge, is even more than the microtech.

I do plan on going to a full stand alone as soon as I can afford it. For now I am just curious whether this system could handle a reasonable amount of power with the quirks of a half-bridge motor. I'd really like to forego the trouble of spending loads of time on new ports. Thanks in advance for any input."

X-JaVeN-X

wow...i was really waiting for the plug n' play megasquirt the guys here on the forum were working on....but, patience is a virtue...that I don't claim to have....and this new rtek is sounding better, the more I read....I may very well be picking one of these up very soon.

muythaibxr

nevermind, posted in the ms section