sublime42o

I just logged for the first time with my rtek 2.0, but I haven't been able to hook up my wideband yet. Anybody know which wire goes from the O2 sensor to the atp input at the ecu on a bosch wideband O2?

My car is running very weird, and my autometer narrowband AFR gauge has told me everything to constantly running very rich to constantly running very lean without me changing anything. Whatever it tells me seems to persist until I have let the car cool back down and started again, it almost seems random whether it will tell me im running full lean or full rich. The car is very stumbly upon giving it throttle, and seems to rev limit itself at 4k rpms. Here is a video of how the car is running:

http://ravenish.com/udubrx7/cars/rx7running.wmv

My car is a 10ae with streetport running a walbro 255 fuel pump with stock primary injectors and 720cc secondaries. I made sure to setup the ecu for the upgraded injectors, and wire in resistors for the secondaries.

If anybody has some free time and wants to have a look at that log and the vid of how it runs, please let me know if you have any thoughts on what the problem may be.

TIA,

Tom

sublime42o

just realized how large that video file is... I'm compressing it more right now I'll post up a new link soon.

sublime42o

Here is a smaller (5mb) version of the video:

http://ravenish.com/udubrx7/cars/rx7runningsmall.wmv

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

For the wideband, you hook the 0-5v signal wire to the APT wire. I am not sure if yours has a 0-5v wire though. You do not splice into it, you cut it in half and wire into it.

sublime42o

I know its the 0-5v signal wire but I don't know which wire that is.... I tried putting power and ground to the sensor and both of the remaining wires read like .24 on my multi meter

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

So what else did you do to the car prior to this problem other than install the Rtek 2.0?

sublime42o

well i put the car up on jacks about a year ago to fix a coolant leak, and ended up putting on a t04, 720cc injectors, walbro 255 fuel pump, 3" turbo back exhaust, and a FMIC along with the rtek 2.0. It had been about a year since the car had ran, but when it ran before it didn't run like this. A friend of mine suggested that it might be that my fuel pressure is too high now due to the walbro, and that I should get a fuel pressure gauge, but I have yet to do that. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get the wideband hooked up tomorrow to log some with it. On my palm I'm running pocketlogger for rx7 v1.01, is there any newer version I should be aware of?

Thanks!

Tom

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

What WB controller are you using? You cant just connect a WB *sensor* to the ECU.

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

From the log, I see the battery voltage has some pretty severe glitches in it. Thats bad.

From the video, I hear studdering and backfiring like a timing problem. You sure you didn't cross up the plug wires or something?

It really doesn't sound like a fuel issue. At least from what I see/hear... Sounds like an ignition/timing problem

sublime42o

umm... not using a controller... I was under the impression you could hook a wideband sensor up to the ecu at the atp sensor input if it had a 0-5v output.

I'm running a really long battery cable, could that have something to do with the weird battery voltage?

I could have mixed up the plug wires I suppose... I'll check.

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sue where people are getting that they can just use a WB sensor. (You aren't the only one).

Time for a sticky on widebands..

sublime42o

Awwww man, you mean I have to buy a wideband controller?

Henrik

hmm, your injector pulsewidths are all over the place at 43.88 and the airflow reading at that time is also odd. Did you wire anything into the ATP sensor input? If so, did you remember to set the ECU configuration for ATP as a general input?

-Henrik

sublime42o

I haven't wired anything into the ATP sensor input yet

sublime42o

It might have something to do with this quote on your site: "This works excellent in conjunction with any sensor with a 0-5v output, such as a Wideband O2 Sensor."

A sticky would definitely be a good idea, had I known I could not log without the controller I would have spent my money differently. Not to say I would not have purchased the rtek 2.0, I love the software and am very excited about using it for tuning, but I could have spent money I spent elsewhere on the $200 controller that I need to log with the wideband - had I known. Now I'm broke with no more money to spend on the car and I suppose I'm just stuck now because there's no way I want to drive this baby around till I can see what the AFRs look like.... But yes... please sticky... you know how poor us rx7 owners are and I'd hate for others to get temporarily stuck like I am.

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I will change the wording slightly.

Should read
"This works excellent in conjunction with any sensor with a 0-5v output, such as a Wideband O2."

I forget what people don't know sometimes when writing these things. (i.e. a WB *sensor* is not a 0-5v output device)

Sticky on Widebands is up in the Rtek forum.

sublime42o

Thanks

Yeh its kind of an obscure bit of knowledge for some of us, especially those not so electrically eclined, like myself.

Thanks for the sticky!

Anybody have any idea what might be goin on between 29 sec and 31 sec on my log? It looks like my battery voltage took a huge spike down right as I was trying to blip the throttle quickly. Any idea what that could be? I'm running a bit of a long battery cable right now (got the battery under the hatch), I'm going to shorten it today but I don't know if it could cause that....

sublime42o

Ok so apparently my dumbass had the plug wires on all wrong, so I straightened that out, but the car doesn't run any better at all. Same acceleration problems and it wont rev past 4k rpms if youre on the throttle much at all. I made another log... the O2 reading seems kind of strange to me, but then again I don't really know what I'm looking for/at. Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Tom

sublime42o

Anybody? Turbo2ltr, you said you think it may be a timing problem. I had the plug wires on wrong, but after correcting them, nothing was different.... Could someone please take a look at my logs and tell me if the timing looks funny or something? I'm totally lost here.... thanks

Henrik

You log looks pretty much the same as before. The airflow reading is swinging wildly around 46.99s, causing the injector pulse width to also swing wildly. The odd thing is that you're never making boost?!? In the range of 46.99 to 48.31 your WOT but no boost is being seen by the ECU. Without boost being seen by the ECU, your secondaries will never come on, this will be why you can't rev past 4k.

Check that your boost sensor is connected up to the right nipple. Also, was there an FCD on it before or anything else on the boost sensor wire? If so, make sure its all been removed. For the airflow wierdness, post a log with rpm, tps, boost, AFM T, intake T, ATP, injector puslewidth and secondaries.

-Henrik

sublime42o

Thanks for the reply,

I used to have a FCD but I completely removed it, and I just now double checked that. I have the boost sensor T-ed into a vacuum line coming off the nipple on the upper intake mani, is this incorrect? I'm going to go make a log in a few min, is there anything in particular I should try to do with the throttle or anything while logging?

Tom

sublime42o

Well I just tried to go log that stuff... but now the ecu and palm apparently arent getting along. The software showed that it had a connection with the ECU, but it was not showing me any parameters, and then it showed me some and it said rpm was at 0 and tps was at 0.... but the car was running. I tried to save a log anyways, and it appeared to save, but when I tried to view it with PLviewer the viewer gave me an "Error: 0" screen and couldnt display it. Any ideas on why this might be happening?

HAILERS

Does your STOCK boost gauge work in anyway at all? I'm not talking accuracy just asking if it moves at any time but especially when your boosting.

I'm weary about downloading files so I didn't look at the downloads.

sublime42o

Yes the stock boost gauge does work. It sits in vacuum until I press hard on the throttle and it will rise to around 0. However, the engine is running so poorly that I am unable to rev it deep enough in throttle to create any boost with my larger AR (1.15) hotside turbocharger. Could it just be that the turbo is too large for it to spool easily or something?

Hailers, if you'd be kind enough to try and take a look at my log I could send it to you directly through AIM or something, or I could post it up on my webspace if youd feel more comfortable downloading from there.

Thanks much!

Tom

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

If it's running the same as before you 'fixed' the plug wires, my guess is that they still aren't right.