Thanks to Rtek, Lucky7 Racing, AQ Motorsports,large chunks of money(for me), I picked up my car last Saturday night!

I now runs pretty good, it's smoother and easier to take off from the light, but initial setup was a pain because it ran far too lean in the 720/720 setting and I have 725/1000 new ID injectors. I had to max out the settings up to 4000 rpm. So I put it in the 550/720 setting and now I don't have to lean it out so much to get it to idle and drive decent.

For now I'm keeping it below 4,000 for break in.

 

Just crossed over 600 miles, change the oil for the 1st time, I will continue the break in process to 2,000 miles. During that time I will start taking it up to 5,500 rpm and try to keep it under 5 lbs of boost.

I'm done with the fuel adjustments for now and it runs perfect, so far. Especially after inputting Arxgh's timing tables(DAAAAAANG, that took a long time). I chose the moderate tables and the car has never been so easy to drive that I can ever remember. I took it by the original owner and he says the same thing. Hoorah for Rtek !!!

I will keep you all posted.

 

Sounds like a pretty solid setup. Good luck, and be sure to share your experiences as you raise the boost and put some 'hard' miles on it!

 

I got 1200 miles on it now and it does NOT...like hot weather,city driving ,a/c and bra on. Over heated a couple of times. Thanks to my Rteck I can read the temp real time. It got up to 238 deg when I put the Palm to it, which was about 3/4 up the gauge. I found the problem to be wrong rad caps and it was boiling over at rather low temps causing low coolant in the engine and overheating. Since a have a Koyo racing radiator I found they specify their own cap, which I did not have. I have it now(1.3 bar), and all seems well.

I'm taking it up to 5 psi now and it seems alright, afrs are 10.9 -11.5. Before I manually adjusted the turbo wastegate to its present setting, I found out the hard way my boost controller is not hooked up right and the boost went to approx 18 psi accidentally. Amazingly the afr's were 10.9 - 11.9 until it hit about 18 psi when it reached 18 psi and about 12.2 afr and I had not set the fuel for high boost yet. Yes it did detonate a bit, but survived. That was when I manually adjusted the wastegate until it is broken in then we will fix the boost controller. I now have the fuel set for what I think will result in safe afrs if that should happen again and also safe timing settings for over 15 psi runs as well.

Again, thank God for Rtek, so that I can do this with out stand alone...

 

Funny how well the rtek works when its not installed on a p.o.s., lol

238 yikes! Still stock turbo and tmic? koyo rad cap? never heard of such a thing. In fact, the radiator should be the last thing considered when determining what coolant system pressure to run. The FD debuted with a higher presssure cap (1.6?) but was later revised to 1.3 for reasons that presently escape me.

 

No, it ain't a stock set up, I couldn't put all of that in my sig...HKS Sport turbo kit,( T04e) with external blow off valve, HKS(early) F.M.I.C., HKS Power Filer, HKS Twin Power Ignition box, HKS big exhaust catback,streetable street port with intake manifold ported, RA Super Seals, Atkins solid corner seals, FD oil pump and regulator, All S5 turbo housings and rotors and flywheel, RX8 e-shaft and all new bearings.

I hope to reach 300 whp when it is all set.

About the radiator, it says that right on their website...I'm talking about the all aluminum racing radiators, not the o.e.m. replacement ones. And we determined my bra caused too much retriction to the front end air inlet to operate at slow speeds on hot days with a/c operating. It has been ok since then, I'm driving it daily to continue to put miles on it. Yesterday my a.f.r meter went out

 

Well, after 2500 miles and recent job disaster, my wife is trying to make me sell it, so, I wasn't driving it for a while. I'm working again and driving it again and nearly done with the tuning. I am running up to 14 psi, my HKS EVC-S boost controller is very difficult to set, but I seem to have a handle on it now. It runs very strong,especially top end. I'm having a little bit of a problem with the idle after boosting, so I've got to get that dialed in better.

If I had it to do over, I would do at least 850 primaries.

 

Now that I'm driving the car pretty regularly...runs really great, hitting the boost a lot, running12-14 lbs, I'm getting oil in the intake tract that comes out of my blow off valve. My crankcase is vented to the suction side of the intake, as it should be, stock. The engine seems ok, no blowby when I remove the oil cap while running and no smoke from there or the exhaust pipes. I think its just too much air velocity thouh the intake tract pulling too much air through the crankcase...Mabe its time for a catch can.

Do any of you use one?

 

I guess not. I disconnected the crankcase vent hose from that vacume vent valve thingy so that it vents to atmospere and I capped the vacume valve so's not to have a vacume leak. That fixed the oil coming through the intake until I find a proper catch can to suit my needs.

Meanwhile...back to pure driving satisfaction.