Rtek alright need help asap tuning?????
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
alright need help asap tuning?????
so i get my car running good then the next morning the car runs completely different?
1. i tune with car running, then i shut it off and restart the car to make sure its
loaded into the ecu? is that wrong?
2. ill tune while driving sometimes if i hit a real lean or rich spot, but i need to
know what the hell is the -4 and -2 representing?
3. i cant understand it? its not hard to do anything but it doesnt do what i want it
to? i.e. lean spot at 2200-2600 light throttle around 15-5 hg...ill add fuel in the
rpm and it will not change anything? i really need to know where on the vacuum
side is the -4 and -2 really at?
also what fuel pressure is good to set it at? i have the aeromotive fpr set at 40
psi @ 900 rpms?
my biggest concern is that while drivingi can have a perfect 13..5-14.5 afr and just
tooling along then bam ill get a 15-16 afr and even a stumble in and out of the
area?(is this the stumble problem?)
if any one has the same setup as me please show me your tune
i have :
s4 t2
landers streetport
all emissions removed
3in full dp/exh.
fmic(big)
720/1000cc
rtek 2.0
bnr stage 1
aeromotive fpr rising rate
walboro 255
aem uego
on a side note i do not have the factory 02 wire hooked up to anything...
1. i tune with car running, then i shut it off and restart the car to make sure its
loaded into the ecu? is that wrong?
2. ill tune while driving sometimes if i hit a real lean or rich spot, but i need to
know what the hell is the -4 and -2 representing?
3. i cant understand it? its not hard to do anything but it doesnt do what i want it
to? i.e. lean spot at 2200-2600 light throttle around 15-5 hg...ill add fuel in the
rpm and it will not change anything? i really need to know where on the vacuum
side is the -4 and -2 really at?
also what fuel pressure is good to set it at? i have the aeromotive fpr set at 40
psi @ 900 rpms?
my biggest concern is that while drivingi can have a perfect 13..5-14.5 afr and just
tooling along then bam ill get a 15-16 afr and even a stumble in and out of the
area?(is this the stumble problem?)
if any one has the same setup as me please show me your tune
i have :
s4 t2
landers streetport
all emissions removed
3in full dp/exh.
fmic(big)
720/1000cc
rtek 2.0
bnr stage 1
aeromotive fpr rising rate
walboro 255
aem uego
on a side note i do not have the factory 02 wire hooked up to anything...
1. all the settings will take effect immediately, no need to shut off
2. I assumed the -4 and -2 are PSI, so that would be -8 and -4 inHg. hopefully someone will confirm that
3. i have the same problem, the 2-3krpm cruising hesitation problem.
not sure about the fuel pressure. I believe stock it was 38 psi at idle and 45 psi at full boost?
we have very similar setups so i will show you what works for me :
Engine:
s4 TII, early RA Bruce Turrentine rebuild, stock ports, 60k+ miles
all emissions removed
RB 3in full exhaust
fmic (20" x 9")
bnr stage 3
aem uego
TB mod
ported intake manifolds
cold box intake, cone filter, 3" TID
Fuel:
stock FPR
walbro 255
RC 750cc pri (high-imp)
RC 1000cc sec (low-imp with 6 ohm resistors)
rtek 2.0
550/720 preset
for vacuum, i have -15% fuel correction. its pretty rich, in the 12s AFR in open loop, but the lean spots are only in the 14s, so no stumbling. If i use the 720/720 preset and try to lean it out to 13s AFR, the lean spots get into the 16-18s and it stumbles. I have no problems with the 550/720 preset
at full boost (6-8 psi), i have to add +15% for 11's AFR from 6-7 krpm. This is pretty much zeroing the 550/720 preset above staging. I have it tapered back at lower RPMs and lower boost, down to about 0% at 0psi. This keeps AFR in the 11-12s in boost. Timing is pulled back to 20 degrees at 100% load and blended down to stock at 40% load.
I am not sure why it is taking so much fuel for decent AFRs, i suspect i need to upgrade my FPR too. How does the aeromotive work? does it fit into the stock FPR location? or do you need to change out your fuel rail?
2. I assumed the -4 and -2 are PSI, so that would be -8 and -4 inHg. hopefully someone will confirm that
3. i have the same problem, the 2-3krpm cruising hesitation problem.
not sure about the fuel pressure. I believe stock it was 38 psi at idle and 45 psi at full boost?
we have very similar setups so i will show you what works for me :
Engine:
s4 TII, early RA Bruce Turrentine rebuild, stock ports, 60k+ miles
all emissions removed
RB 3in full exhaust
fmic (20" x 9")
bnr stage 3
aem uego
TB mod
ported intake manifolds
cold box intake, cone filter, 3" TID
Fuel:
stock FPR
walbro 255
RC 750cc pri (high-imp)
RC 1000cc sec (low-imp with 6 ohm resistors)
rtek 2.0
550/720 preset
for vacuum, i have -15% fuel correction. its pretty rich, in the 12s AFR in open loop, but the lean spots are only in the 14s, so no stumbling. If i use the 720/720 preset and try to lean it out to 13s AFR, the lean spots get into the 16-18s and it stumbles. I have no problems with the 550/720 preset
at full boost (6-8 psi), i have to add +15% for 11's AFR from 6-7 krpm. This is pretty much zeroing the 550/720 preset above staging. I have it tapered back at lower RPMs and lower boost, down to about 0% at 0psi. This keeps AFR in the 11-12s in boost. Timing is pulled back to 20 degrees at 100% load and blended down to stock at 40% load.
I am not sure why it is taking so much fuel for decent AFRs, i suspect i need to upgrade my FPR too. How does the aeromotive work? does it fit into the stock FPR location? or do you need to change out your fuel rail?
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
does the stock wire have anything to do with the rtek? does it still control open/closed loops?
update i have it set tothe 550/720 preset and 0's at all points and fuel pressure @36-38psi hard to tell exactly.
runs pretty good till boost then piggy rich so ill be taking out some fuel here soon
im also running stock timing? anything to change there for 10 psi?
gxl90 your help is awesome, heres is some pics of my fuel set up(big photos)






update i have it set tothe 550/720 preset and 0's at all points and fuel pressure @36-38psi hard to tell exactly.
runs pretty good till boost then piggy rich so ill be taking out some fuel here soon
im also running stock timing? anything to change there for 10 psi?
gxl90 your help is awesome, heres is some pics of my fuel set up(big photos)






neat. does it come with the pressure gauge?
as for the o2 wire, you need it for closed loop. if it is disconnected, it will stay in open loop and run rich in cruise and cause bad gas mileage. But i suppose disconnecting it is a good way to tune the vacuum maps
and DONT boost it until you look at the timing maps.. the default map on my rtek was 35 deg advanced at 100% load. should be no more than 25 or so if you value your seals LOL
as for the o2 wire, you need it for closed loop. if it is disconnected, it will stay in open loop and run rich in cruise and cause bad gas mileage. But i suppose disconnecting it is a good way to tune the vacuum maps
and DONT boost it until you look at the timing maps.. the default map on my rtek was 35 deg advanced at 100% load. should be no more than 25 or so if you value your seals LOL
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Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
well i some how fixed it all and pulled the 100% load timing back to 23 and went down the rpms to where it starts at 21 degrees and started pulling timing there so now it all good
yeah im going to wait for 2.1 too. the biggest problem im having is low imp injector support and afm maxing out. my secondaries run lean then they kick on, and my knock timing retard goes up right around 3800. if the new staging fix doesnt work, im thinking external injector driver or haltech, powerfc or something
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
exactly^^^
but im running all low imp injs.
the cruise fix.
afm delete asap otherwise no needto go bigger than bnr stage 2 if you want more than 10 psi
tuning with the ability to tune around engine temp so your tune is good from the engine start up??? and til warm up
ability to run bigger injectors
also maybe something to make us s4 guys able to run full range tps's
also the 2.0 doesnt pull timing 1 degree for each psi after 9 psi does it? like the 1.7 ?
but im running all low imp injs.
the cruise fix.
afm delete asap otherwise no needto go bigger than bnr stage 2 if you want more than 10 psi
tuning with the ability to tune around engine temp so your tune is good from the engine start up??? and til warm up
ability to run bigger injectors
also maybe something to make us s4 guys able to run full range tps's
also the 2.0 doesnt pull timing 1 degree for each psi after 9 psi does it? like the 1.7 ?
2.0 does not come with retard built in, you have to add it yourself to the timing map
did you try the 550/720 preset to see if it gets rid of your cruise hesitation? It will run pretty rich down low, but it is a whole lot easier to drive LOL and i dont get that bad gas mileage either, about 17 city/ 21 hwy
and I finally got a fuel pressure gauge to see if i need a new FPR, but everything looks normal.. about 37psi at idle and about 45 psi at about 6 psi boost, holding steady to redline
did you try the 550/720 preset to see if it gets rid of your cruise hesitation? It will run pretty rich down low, but it is a whole lot easier to drive LOL and i dont get that bad gas mileage either, about 17 city/ 21 hwy
and I finally got a fuel pressure gauge to see if i need a new FPR, but everything looks normal.. about 37psi at idle and about 45 psi at about 6 psi boost, holding steady to redline
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
also i got 2 errors onmy pda today.. fatal alert (told me to reset)
and fatal something else it happened to quick but it started with a d?
and does your pda ever disconnect while plug in?
its like it will act like it isnt hooked up then comes back on ?
and fatal something else it happened to quick but it started with a d?
and does your pda ever disconnect while plug in?
its like it will act like it isnt hooked up then comes back on ?
i have the gauge hooked up to the incoming fuel line after the filter with some adapters, FPR vacuum line plumbed like stock. with no reference (0psi boost), its about 40 psi. i ruled out fuel pressure as the cause of my cruising hesitation problems, fuel pressure steady as a rock during the leanouts
as far as the pda disconnecting, both of mine do that too (tungsten t3 and palm m100), i think its something up with the software
as far as the pda disconnecting, both of mine do that too (tungsten t3 and palm m100), i think its something up with the software
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
i have the gauge hooked up to the incoming fuel line after the filter with some adapters, FPR vacuum line plumbed like stock. with no reference (0psi boost), its about 40 psi. i ruled out fuel pressure as the cause of my cruising hesitation problems, fuel pressure steady as a rock during the leanouts
as far as the pda disconnecting, both of mine do that too (tungsten t3 and palm m100), i think its something up with the software
as far as the pda disconnecting, both of mine do that too (tungsten t3 and palm m100), i think its something up with the software
hence my thought to seek out other tuning devices
So you guys are complaining that you are having trouble tuning when using ECU setting with larger injectors? Why not just go 720s all around? It seems that you are trying to use it for something that it wasn't designed for, and the troubles naturally are going to happen. I would definatly think about geting a stand alone as you guys appear to be above the "moderatly modified" level that the rtek is inteded for.
How can you be maxing out the AFM it doesn't look like you are running that much boost on a BNR stage three.
How can you be maxing out the AFM it doesn't look like you are running that much boost on a BNR stage three.
Last edited by AUGieDogie; Jan 1, 2008 at 12:43 AM.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...2&postcount=23
but im not completely sure, ive seen other peoples airflow logs go up past 900
Last edited by gxl90rx7; Jan 1, 2008 at 09:32 AM.
The proper channels is to make a help ticket on our site. There is no way we can keep track of random reports spread all over the forum, so we run the help ticket system so we can track all issues until they are fixed.
ok, no problem.. i added a couple trouble tickets 
on another thought, that i think is relevant to this thread..
what is load index? It goes from 1-15 or so in my logs, but does that correspond to the percent load on the timing maps? what load index is 100%?

on another thought, that i think is relevant to this thread..
what is load index? It goes from 1-15 or so in my logs, but does that correspond to the percent load on the timing maps? what load index is 100%?
Last edited by gxl90rx7; Jan 2, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
So you guys are complaining that you are having trouble tuning when using ECU setting with larger injectors? Why not just go 720s all around? It seems that you are trying to use it for something that it wasn't designed for, and the troubles naturally are going to happen. I would definatly think about geting a stand alone as you guys appear to be above the "moderatly modified" level that the rtek is inteded for.
How can you be maxing out the AFM it doesn't look like you are running that much boost on a BNR stage three.
How can you be maxing out the AFM it doesn't look like you are running that much boost on a BNR stage three.
second of all dont worry about helping me out anymore im going standalone and btw gxl90 has helped me out more than any one else and thx man.
hopefully rtek will reease 2.1 soon for you guys....


