Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

hi all, im having problems getting my car tuned right with this set up.. my specs are:
full 3" exhaust
stock ports
750/1680 walbro rewired
60/1 t04
rtek 2.1 e fan all emmssions/ac removed fmic aeromotive fpr (38 psi on idle with vacuum hooked up)
-6AN paralell fuel system

i tuned the transition nice and overall performance good, but NOT perfect or great tune quality.. (im on 720/720 presets) but ive found my afrs still in the 10s at 6-8psi ish boost, and ive subtracted the total amount possible of -37.5% what can i do for i can cut more fuel w/o buying safc.... i was thinking of puttting in my old 750cc secs back in and putting up the fuel press to 45 psi or so, i'd rather do that than drop the pressure on the 1680s... but im gonna run out fuel on the 750s.. my d/c was at 90%!! they are siemens 3145, the 1680s are marren.... any input is highly appreciatted THANKS IN ADVANCE

other problem i might have just fixed, i was getting a real "jumpy" boost reading when i logged, just bought and put in the mazdatrix vac hose orifice(hope that fixes the problem)

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ps im shooting for 400hp the more the better lol

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

The problem is at 6-8 PSI you dont need 1680s. You have way too much injector for that boost level. Turn the boost up....it will lean out.

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

switch to the 550/720cc setting

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ok so is it better to switch to the 550/720cc setting? or what difference does it make? im having trouble tuning at 1900-2500 in vacuum (-12 to -4ish) on tps at 60-70%... my "staging" is at 3008 rpm.... at first i thought it would be my transition point but i guess not or could it be??? thanks guys

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ps, i've been trying to look for the "ideal" afr number or range to have a decent tune but cannot find some concrete numbers.... my afr in cruise is at 11-12 ish and i think thats just raping my gas milage... can anyone hook me up with afr numbers from lets say from -12 vacuum alll the way to 14psi boost? well i know in boost you have to be at 11.1 or in the 11s is good thanks for the help guys

solareon

iTrader: (1)

your afrs in cruise should be 14-16. Do you have the narrowband o2 sensor hooked up?

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ya, i have an inovate that goes down to 7.5... so in cruise, does that include light acceleration in vacuum too??

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

if you change to the 550-720 preset you will be able to tune better for cruising and lower rpm... when you do this you will have to add fuel back most likely since you said you had taken out the max amount

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ok, one more question, do you know if when i change to the 550/720 setting, is my boost fuel map going to be affected as well?? in other words, is it safe to do a 2nd or 1st gear pull aall the way to 8000 rpm, (like i can do now) or do i have to re-tune the entire fuel map??

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

I don't want to type it but, I think it would need a retune... I'm going to be changing mine over to 550x720 soon too.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Depending on how light you are on the throttle I have seen my s4t2 run closed loop while accelerating.

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

what does closed loop mean? does that mean gas spit on engine during idle? i know.. i sound like a newbie

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

it means the ECU is using the o2 sensor as feedback to dynamically adjust the A/F ratio. When you floor it, it goes to "open loop" mode that just dumps a preset amount of fuel in, it doesn't use the o2 sensor to adjust the mixture.

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

hi, i switched over to the 550/750 setting and it drives so much smoother and doesnt hesitate at 2k anymore... the down fall is:

RUNNING 10.0 - 10.7 AFR'S at WOT from 5700-6200 on 6psi to 10psi... i just noticed that the bottom halves (the actuall plastic with holes) of my secondary air bleeds are missing, as if previous ownwer cut the bottoms off... does that affect my AFRS at all???? please help i think i might have to move back to the 750/750 setting because i had better afr's.... i am running FILTHY RICH!!

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

HERE'S A LINK OF THE air bleeds i'm talking about SECONDARY AIR BLEED:

http://mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

the air bleeds wouldnt affect the AFR. Its there to optimize the atomization I think since thats what it looks to be designed to do.

You were running rich below the secondary stage on 750?

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

no, i was running lean, like at 15-16 afrs.. my stage is set at 3008 rpm... and the lean spot was from 1900-2500 rpm, in vacuum under light acceleration/ almost cruise from 12-4 in vacuum. it felt smooth, until it hiccuped or choked or something.. and the afrs were high up during the hicuup.

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

oh, well, i really cant remember if i was or not below the transition... i might of been in the 12s to 14's afrs

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

if you switched to the 550/720 and you are still rich at the top end take some more fuel out, if you cant take fuel out you will need to up the boost or switch to smaller secondaries

HAILERS

The stock fuel pressue at idle with vacuum hose connected to the fpr is more like 28-31 psi, unlike your 38psi.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, I just want to be sure I have this right? According to HAILERS and the FSM page I posted, Idle it should be ~28? Correct?

What does jumpering the fuel pump solenoid do? Does it block vacuum to the FPR (static pressure?)?

I think mines set to about 37 at Idle with the FPR connected. Too high?

Thanks

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

HAILERS: ok i forgot to mention this before but i read up somewhere on the forum to set my fpr (aeromotive a1000) to the desired pressure with vacuum hose disconnected at idle (so i adjusted it to 38psi)... then when i hoook up the vacuum hose back in, the pressure drops, not 100% sure to what but somewhere in the low 30's possibly 28.... but i cant get my car started because i broke one of my new airbleeds and now i need to wait to find one at a junk yard or something...

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

remove the air bleeds? The pintles on your injectors should be doing a proper job of atomization without them.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

i havent read the whole thread but, the rtek can only make corrections above or below stock map. you can only take out so much fuel out of the map to make 1600cc injectors work on the whole map including out of boost. you can not remove enough fuel from the map to run 1600 cc injectors.

biggest i have heard of was 1200cc injectors but i have no solid feed back on that setup.


again i did not read this whole thread, im just posting what i know about size of injectors vs the % of correction above stock map.