88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i am currently running a 6port turbo with a TII boost sensor and rtek 1.7
im running 720's for secondaires and 550 primaries....all mods in sig.
my problem is that it gets SUPER rich right before the secondaries kick on (starts at 3000RPMS)..it goes to 9:5and stays there till secondaries kick on...the primaries were cleaned last summer...another problemis that i have to have my SAFC turned WAY up past 4500 RPMS to run 10 lbs....could this be because of the high comp. rotors???
i also am using a N/A AFN at the moment because of complications of the seller unable to coporate in shipping it...grrrrr...
any ideas??

Henrik

The AFM/ECU/boost sensor should always be used as a matched set.
The NA AFM is not calibrated the same as the TII unit and will almost
certainly be the cause of the richness your seeing. You may also be
maxing the NA's measuring ability above 4500rpm's hence running
lean. The high comp rotors wont have an appreciable difference in
AFRs.

-Henrik

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

ok thanks, the rich problem only started recently like a month ago..it seemed like as soon as it got nice out it got really rich....i might read the ECU codes to see if the sensors are ok...it does still read error codes doesnt it??i think it should....

thanks for the help...

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i got the TII AFM and already had the boost sensor and it is still doing it...
another guy is having the same problems and he also is using the high comp. rotors...
here is a link to it..
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/cant-get-rid-super-rich-spot-right-before-injector-transition-543765/

Henrik

Yep, it'll still read codes. Do you see any?

'aight so you had two problems, the rich spot and the lean
above 4500rpms before using the TII AFM. After using the
TII AFM you still have the rich spot at 3000? Do you also
have the lean above 4500 or is that gone? Do you torean
and dreyko all have high-comp rotors? And for you and
torean, it started about a month ago but appeared to be
running fine prior to that? Are you using a TII intake with
the temp sensor in the elbow just before the TB?

-Henrik

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i just recently installed the rtek and had it for 2 weeks before i noticed it happening..i am not sure if it just started or always been their....
AFTER putting in the TII AFM i got rid of the lean spots abouve 4500...
you were right..the N/A AFM just couldnt read the volumes coming through it...
i am not using the air intake temp sensor or TII intake manifolds...
still using the N/A 6 port manifolds....
doesnt the N/A have the intake temp sensor by the BAC???
i tried to get the codes to pop up but i cant get it to read any....
i will try to get it to read codes again..

Henrik

OK cool, so one problem down. The NA does have a temp sensor
that should read the same as the TII one. What readings do you
get for AFM temp, air temp and coolant temp when its fully warmed
up?

-Henrik

Henrik

edit: forgot your running the 1.7, so no easy way to see the temps.

Below the modified secondary staging point, the ECU will behave
as a stock N332. I was kinda expecting the TII AFM to also affect
the rich spot your seeing (as the NA AFM spring is softer, it would
read higher at less air until it maxed). Unless there's a code, I
can't really see what would cause what your seeing.

-Henrik

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

checked the codes today....nothing came up...

i even pulled the TPS sensor to double check if it was hooked up right...

i wonder what else would cause this?

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

So have you tried to use the AFC to get rid of the rich spot?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

yes i have, though i have NOT tried unplugging it (SAFC) all together to see if the SAFC IS the culprit...
actually i have turned the SAFC all the way to -25 or more and it changed nothing... and it did change anywhere else that i changed the fuel VIA SAFC

Henrik

Does this happen under light throttle or heavy or both? To eliminate any influence from the SAFC, can you try removing it.

-Henrik

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

mostly @ heavy throttle..i have had it happen at light throttle though on occasions...
say i climb a hill in 3RD gear and i get to that RPM range and it starts hesitating(3K).,.if i dont let off the gas it will continue to hesitate at any throttle point in that RPM range unless i completely let off the throttle..
makes sense to you? kind of hard to explain.

Henrik

So, in summary, you have hesitation from 3k to ~3500, mostly under heavy throttle
but sometimes under light throttle as well.

Questions:
When you did the emissions removal, where did you connect the pressure regulator
vac line to? Is it still through the solenoid or directly to some port on the manifold?

Are your 550cc primaries high or low impendance? Do you have the resistor block wired
in? (the 720cc's will be low impedance)

-Henrik

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

yep
no solenoid, its hooked up under the manifold directly to the block i believehigh IMP. 550's

Henrik

OK, I'm presuming you don't have any (more) boost/vac leaks. When you're cruising at
light throttle, does the ECU go closed loop (the AFR will sweep up/down). Do you know
which runner (pri/sec) the pressure regulator vac line is connected to and are you sure
that your secondary throttle plates are opening? Also, does your TPS check out (smooth
resistance through its range with no droputs). How much boost do you typically see in
the 3k-3500 range when the hesitation occurs?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

NOPE
yes i just recently hooked the wideband up to go into closed loop, this problem happened BEFORE and AFTER i used closed loop mode

i would have to check to verify where i have it hooked

i just removed them 2 weeks ago, problem occured before this to
off the top of my head id say around 5 but i can verify this also and let ya know

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Closed loop mode is a mode of the ECU and has nothing to do with a wideband. You don't "use" closed loop mode, the ECU decides if the conditions (current TPS, RPM, etc) are correct for closed loop operation, in which it uses the narroband o2 sensor as feedback to adjust fueling, hence the term 'close' loop. When the ECU is in closed loop mode, you will see the a/f cycle between lean and rich as it tries it's best to maintain a near stoch mixture.

If conditions change and the ECU determines that there is a high load on the engine, it will switch to "open loop" mode. When in open loop the ECU will ignore the o2 sensor and use a preprogrammed fuel table that will run richer than the AFR it tries to maintain during closed loop mode. You can tell when the ECU switches into open loop mode because the AFR will go from cycling lean rich, to just rich.

So....When you're cruising at light throttle, does the ECU go closed loop (the AFR will sweep up/down)

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i had no narrow band O2 sensor installed and my wideband is setup to run in narrow band (closed loop) and also read the A/F readings(wideband).
yes

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Mine hesitates when the RPM is right around 3k RPM's and the boost is right at ~0~ PSI on my Autometer gauge. I have to slightly let off the accelerator, or slightly get into boost (3-5psi) to prevent the hesitation at 3k RPM's.

Henrik

eriksseven: did you check out your TPS? (you mentioned in the other thread
that the fuel cut didn't work for you. A bad TPS could cause this and other problems). As a quick check, if you unplug the TPS do you still get the hesitation?

88rxn/a: If you could verify the boost level that would be helpful.

-Henrik

winter39

I am in the same boat as Ericsseven and n/a (you can see my post with theirs also in the 2nd gen section). My car has hesitation from 3000-4000 rpm (depends on my throttle position, I am able to feather it out at times) range when in light throttle / cruise and at about 0 boost. If I hammer it through that zone I experience no hesitation. I am guessing that I have a few bad spots in the TPS.
Funny thing is I tried to flood clear once also and while my foot was all the way to the floor the car stared on me. It seemed like the Flood clear did not work, this is a sign of a bad TPS also?

Henrik,
Are you asking to unplug the TPS and drive to see if the hesitation is still there or just to let it idle? Let me know and I will try this too.
Thanks

Henrik

Yep, disconnect and go for a test drive. It will default to a safe, but fixed value.

-Henrik

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

My TPS is in perfect working order. I've actually got several of them, so I've tried them all. Two of them are really good and one's kind of crappy. I've always had the hesitation with the R-Tek chip--on my dyno sheet it's blatantly obvious that it coincides with the 'coming on' of the secondaries around 3200 RPM's or so--just a quick blip of uber-richness, which is really only noticable when cruising past 3k RPM's at ~0~ PSI.

Henrik

When your cruising at the rpm range, is your ECU in closed loop? (AFR cycling
up/down).

-Henrik