Why cant I stop breaking Inner Axle cups?
03-22-11, 02:54 PM
#26
I have the crane hi-6dsr with built in 2 step, easy rotary switches to set both the stage and max rev limiters, one relay that activates the two step and at the same time shuts off the trailing coils when the clutch is pushed in, wired off the clutch switch. It all works great, and will try it out at the track when it opens in 3 weeks. The way it limits the revs seems good and safe, It doesn't bang or shoot flames like the msd, so while it doesn't look quite as cool or sound as impressive, I would think its maybe better for the engine?
Maybe you just need to not drop the clutch so fast? I'm looking forward to more consistent and hopefully faster launches with the two step. I added more fuel and less timing to the section of the pfc maps to get from 5 to 10 lbs of boost off the two step.
Maybe you just need to not drop the clutch so fast? I'm looking forward to more consistent and hopefully faster launches with the two step. I added more fuel and less timing to the section of the pfc maps to get from 5 to 10 lbs of boost off the two step.
03-22-11, 07:52 PM
#27
Stay tuned...
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Hey Anthony,
I dont set the line lock full on, just a tap on the brake as I set the 2 step-line lock. That way I can still slip the clutch a tad to stage. I use the ebrake in conjunction just to be safe on not rolling to far and keeping all tight. Once 2nd bulb is lite I drop the ebrake and bring rev's up just below 2 step rpms so I am not banging on it too long. Soon as I feel the tree is going to light I go pedal down!
My 2step and line lock are set up on 2 three way switches and 3 relay. (relay for line lock, relay for 2 step and relay to cut trailings) #1 switch controls line lock and #2 for 2 step. I have a push button the activates all when switch (s) are on.
In burn out box #1 switch is on and #2 off (so I dont use 2 step). After burn out I turn #2 on (2 step). Clutch has to be in and push the button that activates both line lock and 2step, soft pump on brake, pull ebrake and slip clutch to stage, once I release the clutch everything is disarmed.
I dont set the line lock full on, just a tap on the brake as I set the 2 step-line lock. That way I can still slip the clutch a tad to stage. I use the ebrake in conjunction just to be safe on not rolling to far and keeping all tight. Once 2nd bulb is lite I drop the ebrake and bring rev's up just below 2 step rpms so I am not banging on it too long. Soon as I feel the tree is going to light I go pedal down!
My 2step and line lock are set up on 2 three way switches and 3 relay. (relay for line lock, relay for 2 step and relay to cut trailings) #1 switch controls line lock and #2 for 2 step. I have a push button the activates all when switch (s) are on.
In burn out box #1 switch is on and #2 off (so I dont use 2 step). After burn out I turn #2 on (2 step). Clutch has to be in and push the button that activates both line lock and 2step, soft pump on brake, pull ebrake and slip clutch to stage, once I release the clutch everything is disarmed.
03-22-11, 09:02 PM
#28
The tilton flow control valve sounds like a great idea, just did some reading about it. Do you use it and highly recommend it? Seems like this will help not breaking stuff and add more consistency, because I am also always trying to let the clutch slip a little, not just dumping the clutch, But end up letting it out too slow or too fast sometimes. with this flow control valve can you just dump the clutch every time?, with some clutch pre load too. My new 2 step and this flow control valve sounds really good.
04-01-11, 06:16 AM
#29
Rotary Freak
there is no way around this problem using factory axles. we took my nephews turbo II to etown wendsday nite. walking the car out the gate went 119mph, he tried a more aggressive 2nd gear shift and broke the inner axle. did not brake the axle at launch, but on a second gear shift. this makes it easier to understand there is no way around a factory inner axle. just a waste of time racing a car with decent horsepower with factory axles.
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