SO last night at the track yielded yet another broken inner axle cup, its starting to drive me nuts

So asside from the 2k Driveshaft shop ernieT one off how is everone else doing it? I watch everones launch and I feel like im over thinking it. So heres my setup from the flywheel back

Flywheel- Stock Mazda
Clutch- Act extreme PP with Racing Beat 6puck SPRUNG hub
Trans- Stock Mazda with A-spec tail shft brace
Diff- Kaaz w/4.33 gears, Jimlab Bushings, KG Parts Brace
Axles- Shafts from Drive shaft shop
Shocks- Tokico's set on # 3
Springs- Eibach prokit
Trailing arms- Rotaryextreme
Toe links- Rotary Extreme
Bushings- all Jimlab bushings
Swaybay- factory mazda
STB- Cmloy tubing from my Cage, welded
Caster set to 1.5 deg positive
Et Streets on stock Mazda Rims


SO the car HAS ran 10.90's and Cut 1.48 60' BUT I cant seem to make that magic happen again.
I think i broke it last night b/c i went to launch at like 7500, which seems to always break a axle cup, 7,000rpm usally works for me but, I need something more reliable, its not like theres alot of time in the box once the staged light is on

http://www.youtube.com/embed/NOpqFoH6IR0



SO in my endless thoughts i think i need to click back to setting #2 maybe even on 1 on the tokico's, I think its driver error also as I never seem to get my launch rpm right where I want it. so is going with a 2 step a better solution?
I would think the 2 step would add more stress, but it seems everone who can produce consistent #'s is runnign one, so maybe i need to join the heard.

WHAT AM I MISSING!?!?!?!?!?!

I realise the axle cups are cheap so its not a big deal but im tired of replacing them lol

 

I think you should Two step at 5800 and ten psi and add a tilton flow control valve in your clutch line.

 

I think a 2 step would help, atleast make you more consistant. I have run 2 differant types of strut-springs. OEM's of a touring and super stiff JIC's. Was able to cut 1.5's on JIC's but would unload the tires. On the OEM's 1.39 best and the rest 1.4's.
Again this is on OEM everything from tranny back except a TII diff! 110K miles on bushings, axles, etc.... Been drag racing this car since late 90's also.

Now I dont expect to keep cutting 1.3's and not break something this season. But I "ALWAYS" use the e brake to stage and pull the slack out of driveline keeping it tight. Launching at 9200 last few times on 2 step and over 15psi boost (have to go pull a log) maybe more.

 

A 2 step...

Until you get one you can't say your launching at a specific rpm cause i'm sure it's different by the time you actually let go of the clutch...

 

PRE-LOAD, PRE-LOAD, PRE-LOAD... And get rid of that KG parts piece of crap brace, it does nothing but stress the diff case more. If you really want a rear diff "brace", use the PFS one ONLY.

-J

 

Are you running pro tree? Most big events are that I run and the 2step makes everything so easy. What ecu you running?

There was a thread on here showing how to run a 2 step with line lock off the clutch pedal. Best thing I ever did. Now I don't have to think about rolling the lights or what rpm to leave at. I set it before I trip the first light, use e brake and line lock is also set to pull slack and stage 2 nd light. Once second light hits on both lanes pedal to the floor until I run is over.

 

Haltec E6K, old school power.... got a link for that video?
2 step here I come!!!!!!

 

its just for trailings right? I have a hi-6 and 2 lx92 coils running the leadings

 

If you do the two step on the leadings you have to cut power to the trailing igniters.

 

This was for a msd 6al and PFC. It was a few nights of wiring. Basically like Allen said, 2 step on leading and cut trailing when activated. So you need a couple relays, msd, 2 step, rpm pills, relays, couple switches. Don't be afraid to do it as it sounds like a bunch. I will walk you thru it if you need help.

 

Ok. Found it and bumped it up for you.

 

Awesome, thank you

 

Just curious why do you use the line lock as well as the ebrake? I don't use either but going to start doing it. Do you just time it so when you release the clutch you drop the hand brakes at the same time? If you don't mind posting a complete step by step of what you do, it would he helpful. Thanks Mike

Anthony
ps- i like the "pedal to the floor until run is over"

 

Hey Anthony,

I dont set the line lock full on, just a tap on the brake as I set the 2 step-line lock. That way I can still slip the clutch a tad to stage. I use the ebrake in conjunction just to be safe on not rolling to far and keeping all tight. Once 2nd bulb is lite I drop the ebrake and bring rev's up just below 2 step rpms so I am not banging on it too long. Soon as I feel the tree is going to light I go pedal down!

My 2step and line lock are set up on 2 three way switches and 3 relay. (relay for line lock, relay for 2 step and relay to cut trailings) #1 switch controls line lock and #2 for 2 step. I have a push button the activates all when switch (s) are on.

In burn out box #1 switch is on and #2 off (so I dont use 2 step). After burn out I turn #2 on (2 step). Clutch has to be in and push the button that activates both line lock and 2step, soft pump on brake, pull ebrake and slip clutch to stage, once I release the clutch everything is disarmed.

 

By the way I just confirmed by my last log (6.44) pass. My 2 step set with 2 rpms settings 7800 and 9200 made 19.25psi before I let clutch out! Launch was 9282rpm.

 

Concept and wiring make complete sense, but how do I wire it with the hi-6, is it even possible?

The 2 pin connector is obviouslt 1 signal/ 1 output but how does that wire into my HI6r...
the hi-6r has a stage limit controll built in, but its a sequental revlimiting to prevent banging and popping.
am I the only one with a hi-6?

 

Not sure on that box. I would just pick up a new 6al as they are only $200 range. Like Allen said, proven set up. Also on the rpm cut, I am not 100% sure why or how but if I only use the one rpm module on the high side (still cutting at 9200) it doesnt build hardly andy boost. If I run both then its way differant.

 

Both quotes below from their respective ownersmanuals

MSD=Soft Touch Rev Control that provides a smooth and accurate rev
limit by dropping the spark to individual cylinders. The Soft Touch produces a load-free rev limit thatis within 1% of the selected rpm

Hi-6=The HI-6 utilizes a sequential firing program to equalize cylinder firing at the rev limit. When engine RPM exceeds the rev limit, firing stops. The HI-6 counts the number of cylinder firings that are skipped. Once RPM drops below the rev limit, firing is resumed when the count reaches an odd number. If the engine is held against the rev limit, RPM will stay within a narrow band. All cylinders will be fired equally in rotation. Fuel loading and plug fouling will be greatly reduced. Sequential firing also minimizes harmonics and vibrations that can stress engine and drivetrain parts.The rev limiter can be set to operate with 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engines. Accuracy is +/-30 RPM. The rev limiter is not compatible with any odd firing engines.


Since both leadings fire together, its not "odd" firing right?

so guess im gonna be the guinnea Pig? I know the msd is it easier choice in a unknown situation, but the hi-6's description of how it revlimits seems much more explanitory than the msd. also the crane has dials, so no pills to buy
I realize all ignition revlimiters are not the same..... axles should be in later this week, so looks like next sunday ill go make some passes.


I cant wait to hear this thing at some real rpms and not in my garrage lol

 

Just an FYI, though you will be a lot more consistant and have an easier time coming out the hole, the fact is a 2step will kill your engine a LOT faster than if you were to not use one. And, if you must, I would HIGHLY recommend the MSD ignition systems and use their "soft touch" 2step. That is the LEAST distructive 2step on the market..... I'm not saying MSD is the best ignition system on the market, just their 2step setup.

-J

 

OK, so i hear what your saying, but how is it better? I know its the setup almost everone uses but how is its revlimiting different than the hi-6.

B/c a 2 step is a fancy word for a 2 stage revlimiter, I use the ignition cut limiter in my haltech for the high rpm cut so all I really need is a staging limiter. I have read people saying the msd unit will act different without both pills (high rpm cut) but is it somehting with what it does to the timing, is it how it pulses the rpm limit, cuts ignition spark, retarts timing, simulates load on the engine

like im all for changing setups to what works, but b4 i go and blow $ i need to know why

 

I don't have the answer for you but was in the same boat but trying the msd with one adjustable rpm actuator and ecu controlling the high side. Working but was not very aggressive. Added another and was much better. But if you tested it and and made 19psi already no worries. Finish the install and hit the track! Here is my 2step in action.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmnJBimPOk8&sns=em

 

I know I forgot to say it but THANK YOU!! your help on this one has been a life saver!!

what do you mean when you say "not very agressive"??

Im gonna finish the wiring once my axle cup comes in and try it a few times outside to verify my 2 second results. I sent MSD tec support a question as to explaing how the msd box and 2 step actually limit the rev, if its the same as the hi-6, or does some magic actually happen in theat little red box.


ooh Just incase- msd PN 6200 & 8739 right

 

i still think your problem is simply weight .
Im not sure how making more power off the line is going to make it better , short from gaining wheel speed and allowing tyre slip? .
try smaller slicks ?

 

cyro the axle cup\stubs would be a suggestion, we are going to try that over here in UK once the season starts in a few weeks

 

No problem, anytime!

By not aggressive I mean it did not build much boost, maybe 5-6psi. So if yours is building the boost you need you are good. Just try and not stay on it too long.