wheel alignment setup
#1
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wheel alignment setup
hey guys got a fc setting up for drag racing and just want to know what specs i should run for it.
I have just fitted all new suspension and some parts i did have from when it was a drift car (adjustable rear toe rods, camber rod on rear)
Also what spring setup should i run or be better as i have 8kg,10kg,12kg springs
and also have 90/10 valving in the front shocks.
what setup should you have for wheel alignment for drag racing?
i want to know what to setup
rear toe
rear camber
front camber
front toe
2) what tyre pressures do you run in front runners and 10" et slicks (20psi front and 14 in rear?)
also do you always do sick sicks on every run or just the first run of the night do a decent skid and then just lite ones after that ????
As i said i am new to drag racing use to just take it down for fun and ***** and giggles and do heaps big skids.....lol
I have just fitted all new suspension and some parts i did have from when it was a drift car (adjustable rear toe rods, camber rod on rear)
Also what spring setup should i run or be better as i have 8kg,10kg,12kg springs
and also have 90/10 valving in the front shocks.
what setup should you have for wheel alignment for drag racing?
i want to know what to setup
rear toe
rear camber
front camber
front toe
2) what tyre pressures do you run in front runners and 10" et slicks (20psi front and 14 in rear?)
also do you always do sick sicks on every run or just the first run of the night do a decent skid and then just lite ones after that ????
As i said i am new to drag racing use to just take it down for fun and ***** and giggles and do heaps big skids.....lol
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Well on a drag car you don't have to worry about cornering and you want as much contact pad area as you can and the least amount of drag. So you wan't to run zero toe in the front. You can set a tiny bit of toe in because on acceleration the toe will move out a little. You also want zero camber so you have as much tire on the ground. Now on a IRS suspension this may be a little different because as the car squats the camber will go negative and vise versa when going up. I don't have a lot of testing on IRS suspension but I'm willing to bet that they dial in maybe a little positive camber to offset this. For now I would set it at zero. Maybe Enzo or Timemachines can chime in? On caster, the more postive caster the better but most put in around 3 degrees positive.
On tire pressuresf-
Front- fill er up- maximum spec on tire. Most runners that would be 34psi
Rear- will depend on many variables. Start higher and keep going down. Start at 11-12 psi and go from there.
On tire pressuresf-
Front- fill er up- maximum spec on tire. Most runners that would be 34psi
Rear- will depend on many variables. Start higher and keep going down. Start at 11-12 psi and go from there.
#3
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This is my cup of tea :)
wow jay seems that drag suspensions are a true mystery to you to not corner balance a race car is like not brushing your teeth in the morning , no matter how much gum you chew your mouth will still smell like ****
SEDUCE to tell help you out on your alligment first there are some things that need to be known , weight of the car , weight split of the car ( this is where the corner balancing comes into play ) size of tires front and rear , your weight and most important horse power .
you can have 1000 whp and if you weight split is off you will not run the numbers , thats the most important part of your race car , you can play with spring rates , valving , rebound, alligment and pre load all you want to achive a particular number but your corner balance is a MUST REMEMBER COILOVERS WHERE MADE TO ADJUST WIGHT IN EACH CORNER not to look pretty and lower cars so they can tuck tires
if you have good hp try a 60/40 split 60 in the rear 40 in the front (30 30 in the rear and 20 20 in the front ) dont forget to be in the car with all you safety gear on and your fuel cell with fuel where you would race it also disconect your sway bars so the dont pre load your suspension both front and rear. you dont need the sway bars in the car on the first place so scrap them . Now your car is ready to do some serious 60" with out breaking axels or bogging out of the hole
on your spring rate rule of thumb is to leave the front to oe lbs specs and bump up the rear 50lbs so your squat is not so agresive
give yourself no more than 3" of travel in the front you can do this with limiting straps
leave your re bound where you have it in the front
alligment should be set up +1.5 positive camber and -1.5 toe in the rear 15 psi on the rear tires
front tires set them up at 40psi -1/32 toe in -1.0 camber +6.0 on caster
this should help you
just my 2cents
SEDUCE to tell help you out on your alligment first there are some things that need to be known , weight of the car , weight split of the car ( this is where the corner balancing comes into play ) size of tires front and rear , your weight and most important horse power .
you can have 1000 whp and if you weight split is off you will not run the numbers , thats the most important part of your race car , you can play with spring rates , valving , rebound, alligment and pre load all you want to achive a particular number but your corner balance is a MUST REMEMBER COILOVERS WHERE MADE TO ADJUST WIGHT IN EACH CORNER not to look pretty and lower cars so they can tuck tires
if you have good hp try a 60/40 split 60 in the rear 40 in the front (30 30 in the rear and 20 20 in the front ) dont forget to be in the car with all you safety gear on and your fuel cell with fuel where you would race it also disconect your sway bars so the dont pre load your suspension both front and rear. you dont need the sway bars in the car on the first place so scrap them . Now your car is ready to do some serious 60" with out breaking axels or bogging out of the hole
on your spring rate rule of thumb is to leave the front to oe lbs specs and bump up the rear 50lbs so your squat is not so agresive
give yourself no more than 3" of travel in the front you can do this with limiting straps
leave your re bound where you have it in the front
alligment should be set up +1.5 positive camber and -1.5 toe in the rear 15 psi on the rear tires
front tires set them up at 40psi -1/32 toe in -1.0 camber +6.0 on caster
this should help you
just my 2cents
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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wow jay seems that drag suspensions are a true mystery to you to not corner balance a race car is like not brushing your teeth in the morning , no matter how much gum you chew your mouth will still smell like ****
SEDUCE to tell help you out on your alligment first there are some things that need to be known , weight of the car , weight split of the car ( this is where the corner balancing comes into play ) size of tires front and rear , your weight and most important horse power .
you can have 1000 whp and if you weight split is off you will not run the numbers , thats the most important part of your race car , you can play with spring rates , valving , rebound, alligment and pre load all you want to achive a particular number but your corner balance is a MUST REMEMBER COILOVERS WHERE MADE TO ADJUST WIGHT IN EACH CORNER not to look pretty and lower cars so they can tuck tires
if you have good hp try a 60/40 split 60 in the rear 40 in the front (30 30 in the rear and 20 20 in the front ) dont forget to be in the car with all you safety gear on and your fuel cell with fuel where you would race it also disconect your sway bars so the dont pre load your suspension both front and rear. you dont need the sway bars in the car on the first place so scrap them . Now your car is ready to do some serious 60" with out breaking axels or bogging out of the hole
on your spring rate rule of thumb is to leave the front to oe lbs specs and bump up the rear 50lbs so your squat is not so agresive
give yourself no more than 3" of travel in the front you can do this with limiting straps
leave your re bound where you have it in the front
alligment should be set up +1.5 positive camber and -1.5 toe in the rear 15 psi on the rear tires
front tires set them up at 40psi -1/32 toe in -1.0 camber +6.0 on caster
this should help you
just my 2cents
SEDUCE to tell help you out on your alligment first there are some things that need to be known , weight of the car , weight split of the car ( this is where the corner balancing comes into play ) size of tires front and rear , your weight and most important horse power .
you can have 1000 whp and if you weight split is off you will not run the numbers , thats the most important part of your race car , you can play with spring rates , valving , rebound, alligment and pre load all you want to achive a particular number but your corner balance is a MUST REMEMBER COILOVERS WHERE MADE TO ADJUST WIGHT IN EACH CORNER not to look pretty and lower cars so they can tuck tires
if you have good hp try a 60/40 split 60 in the rear 40 in the front (30 30 in the rear and 20 20 in the front ) dont forget to be in the car with all you safety gear on and your fuel cell with fuel where you would race it also disconect your sway bars so the dont pre load your suspension both front and rear. you dont need the sway bars in the car on the first place so scrap them . Now your car is ready to do some serious 60" with out breaking axels or bogging out of the hole
on your spring rate rule of thumb is to leave the front to oe lbs specs and bump up the rear 50lbs so your squat is not so agresive
give yourself no more than 3" of travel in the front you can do this with limiting straps
leave your re bound where you have it in the front
alligment should be set up +1.5 positive camber and -1.5 toe in the rear 15 psi on the rear tires
front tires set them up at 40psi -1/32 toe in -1.0 camber +6.0 on caster
this should help you
just my 2cents
#6
pushing s##t up hill
and front toe should be toe in, + even our rules down under state you must run enough toe in + to help it drive straight and self centre , toe out - will make it twitchy and want to turn easy at higher speeds .
Wheel aligning was a trade i did years ago, i have had plenty of aligners discuss what actual - and + actually means haha
The rest is pretty much as what i have done, except its real hard to get positive camber on the rear unless plenty of mods are done or the cars original height is high to start with, as the more you lower it the more neg you start with .
Wheel aligning was a trade i did years ago, i have had plenty of aligners discuss what actual - and + actually means haha
The rest is pretty much as what i have done, except its real hard to get positive camber on the rear unless plenty of mods are done or the cars original height is high to start with, as the more you lower it the more neg you start with .
#7
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SEDUCE mentioned his car was a prior drift car with the camber and toe rods in the rear so I believe that he some what knows suspensions
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#8
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good info manny, just a quick question. I have the tein flex, and I changed the spring rates from:
Front 10k to 8k(448lbs)
Rear 10k to 6k,(336lbs)
What do you think those rates ?
Also, with these types of shocks, what dampering settings to you feel is the best to leave it on?
Im planning to get it corner weight and was already going for a 60/40 setup.
Front 10k to 8k(448lbs)
Rear 10k to 6k,(336lbs)
What do you think those rates ?
Also, with these types of shocks, what dampering settings to you feel is the best to leave it on?
Im planning to get it corner weight and was already going for a 60/40 setup.
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good info manny, just a quick question. I have the tein flex, and I changed the spring rates from:
Front 10k to 8k(448lbs)
Rear 10k to 6k,(336lbs)
What do you think those rates ?
Also, with these types of shocks, what dampering settings to you feel is the best to leave it on?
Im planning to get it corner weight and was already going for a 60/40 setup.
Front 10k to 8k(448lbs)
Rear 10k to 6k,(336lbs)
What do you think those rates ?
Also, with these types of shocks, what dampering settings to you feel is the best to leave it on?
Im planning to get it corner weight and was already going for a 60/40 setup.
#10
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Looks like the terminology police are out bashing heads already...
SEDUCE - Your setup is really going to depend on a bunch of other info you havent given us yet...ie; weight, hp, irs or not, running 12's or 10's...etc. Theres a thousand correct answers that work for other people but you dont need a thousand different answers...you need the one thats going to work for you.
Disregard all that if your just asking for basic drag racing rule-of-thumbs.
SEDUCE - Your setup is really going to depend on a bunch of other info you havent given us yet...ie; weight, hp, irs or not, running 12's or 10's...etc. Theres a thousand correct answers that work for other people but you dont need a thousand different answers...you need the one thats going to work for you.
Disregard all that if your just asking for basic drag racing rule-of-thumbs.
#12
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whats the size of the tires and weight of the car when its race ready meaning you in full gear and fuel in the tank and whats the hp , the reason i ask is because if you have a 8xxhp the rebound / dampening settings will not be the same as a 450hp car , know what i mean .
wet weight with driver 2700lb
size tires: F 4/26/17 R: 26/11.5/16
hp.. 600ish whp.
#13
pushing s##t up hill
haha im not argumentive mate you could call me a fat bastard with a small dick and ill still think its funny
My terminolagy correction is just to make sure we are all talking on the same page, as i think manny , jay and i are all talking on the same page but not understanding each other on the net,
My terminolagy correction is just to make sure we are all talking on the same page, as i think manny , jay and i are all talking on the same page but not understanding each other on the net,
#14
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haha im not argumentive mate you could call me a fat bastard with a small dick and ill still think its funny
My terminolagy correction is just to make sure we are all talking on the same page, as i think manny , jay and i are all talking on the same page but not understanding each other on the net,
My terminolagy correction is just to make sure we are all talking on the same page, as i think manny , jay and i are all talking on the same page but not understanding each other on the net,
#15
IFO Forced Induction Slo
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I dont see how this could be mistaken for "corner balancing" (which is important). Obviously Jay was refering to cornering as in taking corners, making a turn, etc and he shouldnt be flamed for it.
But yes, back to the topic, 600hp 2700lb car with a stock IRS right? Some postive camber in the rear will help increase the contact patch on the tires. Some guys run stock springs.
But yes, back to the topic, 600hp 2700lb car with a stock IRS right? Some postive camber in the rear will help increase the contact patch on the tires. Some guys run stock springs.
#17
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I guess it was directed to me :)
Jay last time we spoke you seem straight to me . Iam sorry to hear you went to the gay side
#18
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#19
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so i am guessing your Jay's" Bitch" or just Captain Save a Hoe , what may be obvious to you is not obvious to most of the guys that come to forums to get some kind of help and are clueless about what "cornering" or balancing is Thats why most people that actually know how to get a car down the 1320 stay away from forums like this or is it just to obvious that key board drag racers do it better .......
Jay last time we spoke you seem straight to me . Iam sorry to hear you went to the gay side
Jay last time we spoke you seem straight to me . Iam sorry to hear you went to the gay side
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I dont see how this could be mistaken for "corner balancing" (which is important). Obviously Jay was refering to cornering as in taking corners, making a turn, etc and he shouldnt be flamed for it.
But yes, back to the topic, 600hp 2700lb car with a stock IRS right? Some postive camber in the rear will help increase the contact patch on the tires. Some guys run stock springs.
But yes, back to the topic, 600hp 2700lb car with a stock IRS right? Some postive camber in the rear will help increase the contact patch on the tires. Some guys run stock springs.
Manny hasn't raced a car for so long that he's loosing it up in head if you know what I mean. He's turning into a full time keyboard racer now.
so i am guessing your Jay's" Bitch" or just Captain Save a Hoe , what may be obvious to you is not obvious to most of the guys that come to forums to get some kind of help and are clueless about what "cornering" or balancing is Thats why most people that actually know how to get a car down the 1320 stay away from forums like this or is it just to obvious that key board drag racers do it better .......
Jay last time we spoke you seem straight to me . Iam sorry to hear you went to the gay side
Jay last time we spoke you seem straight to me . Iam sorry to hear you went to the gay side
And don't be jealous, your still my biotch.
#21
It wasn't me!!
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ok guys. glad you all can still swing your e-***** around the place.. Can we get back on topic now as they're a bunch of us who would really like to learn something ..
*runs for cover*
*runs for cover*
#22
One Luv "Till The End"
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Listen to Manny, I've know the guy for 12yrs, he knows his **** like the back of his hand...
Manny has been doing suspension setup for god knows how long!!! And with that said knows and is best friends with kilito Jesus Padilla and wrenches along side of him when it comes to drag racing...
So I don't know you tell me...
I got my suspension setup through Manny...
Don't need to be in car actually racing, to know what the **** to talk about on different subjects.
Manny has been doing suspension setup for god knows how long!!! And with that said knows and is best friends with kilito Jesus Padilla and wrenches along side of him when it comes to drag racing...
So I don't know you tell me...
I got my suspension setup through Manny...
Don't need to be in car actually racing, to know what the **** to talk about on different subjects.
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Listen to Manny, I've know the guy for 12yrs, he knows his **** like the back of his hand...
Manny has been doing suspension setup for god knows how long!!! And with that said knows and is best friends with kilito Jesus Padilla and wrenches along side of him when it comes to drag racing...
So I don't know you tell me...
I got my suspension setup through Manny...
Don't need to be in car actually racing, to know what the **** to talk about on different subjects.
Manny has been doing suspension setup for god knows how long!!! And with that said knows and is best friends with kilito Jesus Padilla and wrenches along side of him when it comes to drag racing...
So I don't know you tell me...
I got my suspension setup through Manny...
Don't need to be in car actually racing, to know what the **** to talk about on different subjects.
We were just talking smack back and forth. If anything if you read his first post he basically said I don't know ****. If you know Manny so well, you'd know that was him just talking smack and if you know me, I have to talk smack back. It's all good brotha.
#25
One Luv "Till The End"
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You don't need to worry bout me , my car, who's driving my car, my 60 feet, my 1/8th my 1/4 miles, or who's dick I'm on or whatever...If you want some I will give you sum...I have no problem...don't yap what you don't know!
Just so you know just cuz i don't post ***** about this or that about my car, or talk about my car and what it run's on 40psi of rear tire pressure don't mean the car is not at the track... lmao...kidz
Not my two cents...
Just so you know just cuz i don't post ***** about this or that about my car, or talk about my car and what it run's on 40psi of rear tire pressure don't mean the car is not at the track... lmao...kidz
Not my two cents...