Just got off the phone with Frank at the driveshaft shop. He was pretty surprised, said he has never see it happen (ROTARY TORQUE FTW! ). A new bar is going in the mail today. Should have it in a few days.

These guys are great to work with, and he told me that they are going to have upgraded CV made with the same material as the bar (300M) next season, so thats good news for any of you that are breaking them. He said it was going to be a little different design that will hold a lot more.

 

Zinx, after my rebuild my motor didn't leak at all. After Steve Kan boosted the hell out of it the motor twisted and now my oil pan leaks. lol It is like a few drops a day so its not that bad. He said it is just the housings and plates twisting from the high boost.

 

Actually, mine did the same thing only it was more than just a few drops, so i installed a brand new pan and put on garfinkles brace and I had no oil leaks for the entire season. I think i just twisted the motor more while launching with boost. Hopefully it will be an easy fix. The tranny is already going to be out of the car so i may be able to lift the motor up enough to get to the pan without lowering the subframe. That was a pain in the *** to do before.

 

Just a tip, you do not need to drop the subrame to remove the oil pan and re do the oil pan gasket. You do have to unbolt the motor mounts from the subframe and use an engine hoist to lift up the engine until it is hitting the firewall. Unbolt the oil pan and let it rest inside of the subframe. Once it is sitting down inside the subframe you can undo the oil pickup tube, then slide the oil pan out between the subframe and the bottom of the engine. The toughest part is preventing oil from contaminating the new seal you are trying to make because oil will continue drip down from beneath the engine. I guess you could let it sit for a long time to avoid this but that was my experience with it.