ari

I was running a stock FD gear box, no dog gears.

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: NM

Good luck, Ernie.

Indian

iTrader: (1)

Ari, Give us details on a good suspension setup/ tranny setup and what not!!!!

fdracer

you obviously don't know how to drag a turbo car. you cannot launch out of boost or the car will just fall on its face. what will happen is the car will bog until the boost hits then he'll blow the tires away at which point he'll have to short shift causing the car to fall on it's face again.

ari

With all the information on here.... how can anyone help but go 9's... It's so easy on paper but it seems that every setup is different.

I have no secret recipe. My biggest problems over the years has been keeping the car together. I think that has been the biggest challenge in import drag racing in general. Domestic guys can generally get heavy duty parts more easily.

Look at the honda guys, they start with a car that makes under 100hp and end up running 9's!!! The biggest problem for them in the beginning has been not making power but keeping a trans and axles built for 100hp to stay together at the 400... 500... 600... and now over 1000 HP level.

The honda community has some aftermarket parts available now but still nothing is bulletproof. If you know any honda guys running 9.50 or better (800hp+), then you know that they are constantly working the balance of getting enough traction to hook but not shock the parts and break.

Here's a good tip for everyone: Tire spin=no broken parts! I've never broken an axle while spinning tires.

In my opinion you want to dial up your power as you increase your bite... slowly!

If you go to the track looking for a dead hook and leave as hard as you can, you'll either set a new record or... get pushed on the trailer. Most likely the 2nd (just ask Ernie and Lee).

My personal best on all mazda drivetrain (engine, trans, R/E) was 9.27 and 9.30 That was done on et street tires, 13b on gas, FD trans and RE. I think that an 8.99 is possible. I can't wait to see it happen.

Sorry for being so long...
Ari

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

my old car had a horrible suspension problem, best short times (1.4x) were with the 2 step off and with a stock flywheel........ that was the 10.00@119mph pass in my old fd

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

good to see yallon posting

Crash Test Joey

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Below the peak power doesn't mean off idle. I expect Ernie is intelligent enough to understand my post. Maybe you could find something helpful to tell Ernie instead of trying to prove me wrong about something I clearly indicated was guesswork, not only for me, but for Ernie as well

And no, I haven't drag raced a high-hp turbo car, but my Procharged Mustang made it into the 9-second zone with less power, and it took a lot of testing to get it done, so I know about working through different variables like clutch slippage, tire pressure, track temp, track prep, launch rpm, shift points, tire spin, etc.





Very valid point. So the question is which is more important: saving parts on the way to running 9's, or actually running 9's. Ari, I have no doubt you have more experience with an RX7. But surely when you started out, you played with tire pressure, launch rpm, and suspension settings, right?

My main point through all of this has been go to the track and test. If my suggested points seem too far off or too aggressive based on past runs in the logbook (you do have a log book, don't you Ernie?) then make some adjustments to those factors and start from there.

The only other thing I would recommend is stop making 1/4 mile passes every time you take the tree. Holding WOT out the back end is obviously something you won't need to work on. It's the launch and the first two gear shifts that make this difficult to master. Make a few 1/8 mile passes, just let out and coast after the 2-3 shift. Then compare the timeslips to the previous runs and see how close you are. You'll cause a bit less wear and tear on the car, use less fuel, and risk less on the big end when getting used to running the tires at lower pressures at speed and you test to find a good point to launch at.

cobaltss81

iTrader: (2)

After reading this thread it seems like Ari has the best ideas. The whole point of having a high horsepower car and trying to run on stock suspension with massive power is having adjustability with power output by way of boost.

The only thing I would have to add is that I had an old friend of mine who had a Mustang Fox Body with a stroked 396 that was making over 500 hp NA and had a 200 shot of gas on the car. Of course, mustangs use live axle rears, but he had a set of "Megabyte Jr." traction bars on his car. They came with 3 different settings rated by traction 50%, 85%, and 135%. On the front of the car the sway bar was removed, and he was using 90/10 drag shocks.

He had it on 135% and had 50/50 drag shocks in the rear and was running an ET tire. But even with the shocks, the rear suspension was so hard on this setting that even if you jumped up and down on the rear of the car, it wouldn't move!!! Now keep in mind that he was running a TKO 5-speed tranny. The problem's he were having were basically the same as previously stated with Ernie's car, except when he would shift into second the car would immediately try to go to the wall and was all over the place!!! The reason Ernie's car isn't doing this is because he is falling out of boost on the 1-2 shift, and therefore loosing power.

The reason why was simple, the rear of the car was so hard that the suspension didn't have any time between ***** to react, therefore it would "unload". Because of this problem the car never got out of the high 11's.

Later, the exact same setup was put into a Mustang coupe and with an auto tranny and better rear suspension mods, the car ran 9.90's at over 140 mph.

Ari, nice to see you on the forums. You represented Mazda's well with your appearance on Pinks All Out.

-Vincent

fdracer

you should really stop defending yourself since you clearly don't have a clue. you said to launch "slightly out of boost" which is a direct quote. we are not trying to prove you wrong, we are just stating what will happen when you launch with no boost. you do not understand the power curve of turbo cars.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Don't sweat the numbers Ernie, just go out and have some fun. If you do make any changes in the chassis just don't do anything drastic. Creep up on it slowly and be safe.

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

'Slightly out of boost' doesn't have to mean zero boost. I clearly indicated I hadn't seen the dyno graph so I couldn't dictate the exact rpm he should launch at. Nor do I know how much boost he makes so I can't tell him to set a certain psi goal in mind when launching. Unlike you, I assume he can figure out what I meant.

I've already conceded the point that Ernie and Ari have more turbo/IRS experience than I do, but I've been trying to offer helpful info based on what I DO have experience with. The information I've shared can give Ernie a starting point, or if he sees something he's already tried with no success he can simply ignore it, or make a note that someone else has seen it work so maybe he can try it again while changing something else. It's all part of the testing process that eventually leads to success.

Exactly what are you sharing in this thread that will help Ernie in his quest to make his car run consistent 9's? Which post was it again that was helpful to Ernie? Oh that's right... "just take off in second gear, problem solved" wasn't it? Why not just create a new thread for me to ignore instead of trashing this one?

SPEED_NYC

iTrader: (3)

ok fd racer and crash test, you have both made your points. it ends NOW. les get back to the topic at hand.

ernie, was ray not willing to sell you the custom valved koni's?
you should try to get those from him, considering his and your success with them.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

you don't want that rear end to drop much on launch, just the front end to come up transferring the weight to the power, but a good shock that's gonna keep that front in the air between shifts so the tires don't unload............ don't you have someone that can fab up some custom mounts for some nice drag two ways?

junito1

ErnieT. Im not a pro racer or anything... but try this...

When you launch you stay full throttle dont you?
Try launching and as soon as you feel the tires breaking loose.. Ease on the trottle 3/4 maybe even 1/2 throttle(maintain some wheel spin at,lets say, 6,000rpms.) When u feel the tires about to actually hook at 6,000rpms then go full throttle. This should get you the grip you need in first gear to give you full boost for your second gear. ANd try a NO lift shft oncve. I mean u hit the rev limiter enough like u didnt care.

When you hit the rev limiter the turbo wnt get the load it needs to spool full psi.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Easier said than done..................you're practically shifting to 2nd once you drop the clutch.

timemachines

well we r no experts on fd's but the way we kept our parts from breaking was by using a soft suspension(86 fc stock shocks ) n thats what worked the best for us also we setup the clutch so that it slips till its hot(mcloud clutch),,,just adding my 2 cents

Busted7

Ive never seen a fast irs that didnt squat like hell.
Ive seen the vids on timemachine and it bounces of the track!

blitzboy

Reread this thread a couple of times, what 60ft did you get in your lastest runs Ernie?

Normal HKS Hipermax are defo not suited for drag, Im running the HKS Drag Coilovers and the weight transfer has been very good , 60fts of 1.6s on MT ET Streets.

You will get there Ernie once you sorted the suspension setup

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

Ari might want to chime in but wasn’t he running tokico’s with eibach’s and having great success?

I’m closer to half the power Ernie’s making but with the above setup and cutting 1.4x’s
But I’m not leaving with a 2step, just dropping the clutch @ 7k on ET streets @ 12.5-13psi and I’m still not dialed into where I want. ( I know I’m in a whole different world than Ernie’s power so I know this might have nothing to do with the color of the sky)

And Dan Schecter has cut 1.3x’s with Ground control coil overs, Tokico’s and Eibachs.

What kinda alignment specs are you running out back ? Are you compensating for the squat? With positive camber?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

I cut 1.62 60' on all 6 of my runs, but the tires were spinning so bad as I grabbed 2nd gear, it would hook up and fall out of boost every pass. I just put a call in to Jason @ the RX7store for the HKS drag suspension. Till then, I wll continue to experiment with what I have.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone confirmed that the HKS Drag Suspension even works for Drag? I know it says "Drag" but how many drag cars do you see HKS building? You could put a real system under there for the cost of the HKS Stuff.

Just wondering.

zinx

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried launching without the anti lag, just free revs? I'm cutting low 1.5s by doing that, same tires as you, stock R1 suspension.

junito1

DUDE>>!! dont buy 1,000's worth of ****. Your car is a 9 second car!!
Justr practice 1st and 2nd gears!!! all f-ing day.

I will be the honest one. Your launch sucks! And its not the suspension. Its you.
1. turn the 2step off. You dont need it. You already have to much power for the tires. Launch the old school way.
2. Get expensive boost controller and make first gear have less boost..
3. Hire a driver.

Sorry. I love your car. But your spending money to make up for your bad driving skillz....

I dont mean to sound like a *****. But what do all the newby wannabe racers do at the track?
Over spin first gear. (they see the needle hit redline) and they throw second gear 25 mphs too early.. and the engine falls flat on its face.


You fix that driver mistake and your hitting 9's BABY!

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. ( and dont spend no more money) =)

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

I Know its tough but have you tried granny shifting into 2nd?