mazda rx2 rotary

I am running the aeromotive eliminator

rotorholic

iTrader: (53)

another one bites the dust

beefcake

ya feakin me out, i too have the eliminator pump, was it a failure, or lack of pump size for the eliminator

rotorious13b

This is what it looks like when you run out of fuel, after this I bought the mechanical set up no more problems

this is me going lean at 30psi off the line.....listen to the weldon pumps noise
http://www.streetfire.net/video/rx7-...fire_83954.htm

I also have broken my share of parts until we found the g-spot

rotorious13b

some pics of my R&D


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mazda1200

iTrader: (1)

who made that manifold for you Hogans ..

rotorholic

iTrader: (53)

define g-spot?

beefcake

i think it may mean that he no longer gets that after race meet feeling of someone pack raping his *** with a dry lubed and bent eccentric shaft that you know is going to hurt your wallet and rota racing pride
The rota G spot is drag racing heaven where you can tell all your friends at how great the mighty rota is and its the best thing since sliced bread , its that thing enzo had not too long ago, maybe someone needs to give him the index finger to find that rota G spot again

rotaryB-2000

You guys are giving up on the 13B to soon.....

The Rotary is by far the least expensive form of HP gains.

beefcake

i wouldn't say its cheap buy a long shot, the initial cheapness looses its sweetness after your foreva pulling it for rebuilds before the G spot is found, then as soon as you've found it the G spot moves as times get faster .

Our piston rx7 in my team has done numerous meets with the bottom end not going anywhere , bearings are all good still , only the heads need valves to be re seated after they have had a bashing time and time again of 50+ psi from a PSI supercharger and 10000rpm pulls and 9500 burnouts
Yeh initially it cost way way more than our rota combo we put in it from time to time in the off season for ***** an giggles , but we are destroying the rota every second meet
And the piston combo we are doing low 7s time and time again, and buy the looks of it we don't think it will need a bottom end rebuild at all this year

But you know what, if we were allowed to run with the PSI blower on our 20b then we would, as that's where our passion lays but in the end we would rather be at the track racing, because its drags that give us the rush and comradeship from fellow racers alike , not being at the track is worse than just not racing because you cant face using a piston motor .....

enzo250

Beefcake that write there is what most people don't realize.
You just nailed it and that only comes from experience on both sides.

People will always try to brag on how cheap a rotary is too build.
That's only if you u put it together with used crap parts.
That might work well for 500hp engines but not for 800hp+ engines.
With me basically doing all the work myself and the help of my friend I had 6k+ into my engines.

Then after every event or every other event the motor had to come out for some reason.
Then rebuild would vary from 1k-3k depending on what needed repair.

Do that for 12-15 events and see how cheap the rotary really is.

Now spend 10-15k on a piston motor that will run all year with very little maintainence and
see which is cheaper in the long run.

I agree my passion will always be with a rotary but it's not easy to keep up with.

enzo250

I totally disagree. There's so many options of power with piston motors it's not even comparable.

rotaryB-2000

again you are missing the point..i know lots of racers that use a water gasket set, apex seals, side-corner & apex seals ($600) and run 40-50 runs at 40lbs or more..
under 40lbs and you can see 60-100 passes.

Yes you have your hick-ups here and there but if you have to take appart your engine you re-place only whats needed then back to racing....so then your time is really the issue and not having to buys parts..

Now on a piston engine what parts are re-usable compared to the 13B...

beefcake

that is the immeasurable factor that seems to be missed in the equation, labour , i think i spend more time helping our drag team than i do with friends an family at the moment,
God forbid if i or Paul in our team didn't have the help of a close knit bunch of guys who are drag fanatics,
If you added the amount of time we spend freshening the rota combo when its in, it would easily double the pistons labour rates,
Add that to a paying racers bill and its going to hurt massive, there is only so long that we can take pulling and installing engines before we see the writing on the wall , but getting clouded because of passion will burn you out and frendships too , so if your slightly better off racing a better/safer (either ither) combo and its going to help keep your sanity then go ahead and do it .

Just don't expect a website full of rota heads to open their arms its all good

beefcake

sorry mate i totally understand your point as well, but when our 13bpptt combo broke down it was spun bearings, bent seals , bent shafts , dented (massive) rotors , or even a cracked side sea (which damages the plates) l , these things were not re usable and weren't cheap to buy new .

But i know of plenty of other racers in my town who have just bent seals and lost compression , luck of the draw i suppose when metal decides to deform.


On our piston engine, we re use the rods, crank, pistons, block , valves , heads , an pretty much everything else,even the copper head gaskets get re used

The only thing we have had to replace was a crank when we found a crack on a end of season maintenance , no damage was done .
But when a rod gets thrown out of bed , we are lucky having the custom block, it can be re sleaved and welded, the crank is a standard 1uz v8 crank ground , the rods are only ali rods that are around 1g the set from sponsor , the forged pistons are similar cost , the heads are standard apart from a small cam upgrade and thats it ,the rest is standard toyota stuff .
The bearings are not expensive at all, nor are the piston rings , we only have a copper set of head gaskets, as the rest is rtv sealed or generic oring sets
We get our heads and cranks from auto dismantlers around us, not expensive go fast shops , so even our choice of engine was cheap too

But for some reason we cant see it kicking out a rod, as a piston combo is quite a bit easier for us to tune, we can lean on it and at worst it gets warm exhaust valve seats, simple re lap and we are back racing , do that to a rotary and its can junk a entire motor if leaned on too much ,fingers crossed we dont throw a rod, if so ill let you know if its cheaper or not to fix haha

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

I would believe this if it's a v8 but for a 4banger there's no way.

beefcake

Ps im not going piston, ill keep my rotary thanks

Ps if you click on my aero link below im the big dude to the right pulling the barry finger move that the ladies love just thought id share a happy snap of me from australia

enzo250

4 cylinders can be relible too. There's nothing unbelievable about it.

rotaryB-2000

[QUOTE=beefcake;10391532when our 13bpptt combo broke down it was spun bearings, bent seals , bent shafts , dented (massive) rotors , or even a cracked side sea (which damages the plates) l , these things were not re usable and weren't cheap to buy new .

[/QUOTE]

now i know why you think the way you do...the culprit 13BPP...I know lots of drag guys and out of say 100 cars maybe 5 are PP and that is just because they had that engine for years or just want to be the fastest at blowing engines but in all honesty the PP turbo is problematic when it comes big boost turbo applications...

All the damage that you listed comes from something really wrong or off..and not from a lean out or usual failure. Note most U.S. based drag cars lean and bend a seal, loose deflection on springs, maybe crack a plate and even they are at times repairable but dont see all the damage you mentioned above.

But getting back to the original topic rotarys are hands down the least expensive way of making HP..!!!!

beefcake

yeh ive told the boss to try a side port motor, but hes old school haha , and when the pp goes it goes bang , over revving has been the culprit for a few of our efforts, no limiter on the points magneto that he insists on running with it, mech injection with mallory magneto ignition ... what the , and pushing into the 12000 rpm sortta sucks ***** haha

Ps fellas happy new year, its just gone midnight in perth aust, the world hasnt ended again so its good to go racing haha

enzo250

that's a bit of wishful thinking. How many racers do you see running that many passes without opening their engines. Most make it to about 10-15 runs from what I see.
On the east coast at our local races the only cars I can say almost 100% that will be at the next race is pepo loco and Canaca. And they ran on the same motor all year.

The faster a rotary goes the faster you will need to pull the engine.

Hick ups occur more often then not. Spin the tires too much hurt the motor, two step too much hurt the motor, hit the rev limiter hurt the motor, tire shake hurt the motor.
You get the idea and these things happen all the time in drag racing and are almost unpreventable.

Pistons don't seem to care about that stuff and will be there for you next round.

I thought of a cute analogy.

Pistons motors are like dogs.
They are a mans best friend and will always be there for you.

Rotarys engines are like women.
They are delicate, expensive, hard to keep, high maintainence,
And after all that we still keep them. Lol.

Some of us are better off with dogs.

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

No wonder why most of the honda guys stop racing about half-way through the season. Our high 8's rotary lasted the whole year and the 4 banger if lucky go through the whole year running high 9's. We have converted 2 4 banger racer to go with a rotary and they are more faster and it cost alot less now.

enzo250

Transmissions is what is hard to keep in hondas and most can't afford to keep up with them.

Plus you really can't compare an 8 sec rwd car with a 8 sec fwd car.

rotorious13b

The sweet spot in my car is 700hp to the back wheels without any parts coming off ..
the track is not my work shop anymore , I drive my car onto the trailer not have my friends push it . no broken or crack steels , no rotors hitting plates , and my intakes don't look like a bomb went off . I credit this to help from Rene at his dyno and share information . by no means I'm saying 700hp is good news or anything to brag about, it's old news, but this is how far I've come and how much I know and can actually afford $$$

How about you papa bear what's your goal 7sec or 6sec ? actually 7sec is old news
so is got to be the 6 sec club you going to need some serious hp and a big pit crew $$$$$$

enzo250

I Agree. 600-700hp 13b's are a comfortable level. You can get away with alot and the motors live. In a light car with good drivetrain and you will go fast.
This I would honestly say you can race all year with one engine.

The problem becomes when you start pushing power levels.