Well, Guys, it seems that more and more 3rd gens are being drag raced now adays, and well, We don't really have a good setup out there for the sport. It's kinda a hit and miss deal with setting up the suspension and getting it dial in.

Now I know Dan started a thread with his setup but I think it was a little too "his". I think maybe we could see what other 3gen owners are using and are getting good results with.There are others that have stock suspension and are performing good, but that doesn't work for everyone,
Having a productive discussion about what works and what doesn't help in one thread would make it easier for anyone to get info.


So I guess I post up what I have already and people can do the same and make comments on it and theirs. Please feel free to chime in even if you don;t have a 3rd Gen, All information is valuable in the quest to hook and go straight

I'd really like to hear from the experienced guys about this, Cris, Ernie, Allen, Enzo, Ari, Goodfella, etc and anyone else that might have the magic ticket to get the job done

 

Here's my setup

Tein Mono Flexs with QA1's Softer Springs I think 8kgF and 6kgR
Lower links
Toe Links
Kazz Diff
Super Now Solid Diff Mounts
Super Now Solid Engine Mounts
Ride Height ??? hasnt been set yet. any recommendation is welcomed
Getting Axels from Ari in a Few
Want to get the Diff Case Brace From PFS

I think Thats it. So any input is great.

 

So no one is interested...........

 

I'm interested and watching. There's not a lot of people giving feedback as to their experiences with coilover suspension. Many people have used the Eibach springs with great success. I will be running the stiffer Tien S-Tech springs as I'll be pushing a bit more power than the other guys and need to control some more squat.

Your setup is great and will be even better when you get some time on the track to tweak the settings. Getting friendly with someone that has use to an alignment rack would be smart. Just watch as a lot of racks on the market don't provide a lot of clearance to fit lowered cars on.

You'll want the rear suspension set higher than the front obviously but concentrating on how much the car squats is the science. When you leave the line you want to ideally have your settings at 0 (when your rear is compressed). But you have to keep in mind that after you get further down the track that the rebound and release will have an effect on your settings an "drag" the car when your settings go out.

The struts dampening settings will also need to be looked at after you leave the line a couple times. You want enough squat to let you hook the rear in but not too much. Talk to some of the guys running good times at the track the day you run and ask them to look at your car as you leave the line. If they're getting nice 60ft times they might know something about dialing in the suspension...

 

thanks for the break down. I will also look at camber angle too. That will also help when the rear squats, enabling full tire contact.

I guess everyone else wants to keep their setup a secret. lol

 

I would talk about mine but I have 0 track time with it. But I have tokico adjustables w/ tein springs, toe links, lower bars and solid diff mounts. I have the new toyo drag radials on the stock wheels that I'll be trying out. I did my own alignment on the car so that I get full contact on squat. I post here with more soon as I can give more info

 

thanks for the info 7passu. look forward to seeing your results

 

Keep your suspension simple. The coilovers you may want to set aside for road racing and get a set of tokico or koni 5ways. They work very well.

 

I agree with simple though. Make sure bushings are good. Mostly its tires and the driver mod for good 60'

 

Ernie, are you talking about off the shelf tokicos/konis ? What about Springs? What do you recommend?

What is your setup, if you don't mind sharing Ernie?

 

Just curious if anyone would like to keep this thread going, would also like to know what you guys thoughts are on antilag vs. 2 step or niether.

 

I'm going with a solid axle for my new setup as it should be very strong. This is comboed with HKS 3 way adjustable drag coilovers. Almost have it done and its all bolt on so I can always go back to a irs. I may make a kit to sell after I try this out.

 

 

got any pictures of the upper control arms? make sure you make them long enough, I know there isn't much room there so if you have to, cut out the floor a little bit. Mine were too short and I couldn't set it up correctly....

nice to see someone else finally doing this.

my old turd..

 

how did it handle with that axle

 

street driving etc. etc. and taking corners..... I couldn't tell the difference between solid and irs...

 

I went with the good old solid ford 9" it will keep me out of trouble ....

 

nice info guys.

 

^ Finally some people realize that the IRS suspension sucks for drag racing and went and put a solid rearend in. I have been wondering why all the others haven't gone this route? Unless your going to autoX your car too, the solid rearend is the way to go for drag racing. Cheap, bulletproof, many diff gear selections, and better 60ft. How much money have you serious high hp IRS guys have spent in broken axles and upgraded axles/Cv joints/ gurdles/ etc.? It's not that hard to do and like Eric mentioned, there's not a huge difference in handling. If you want go consistant 9 seconds I think a solid rearend is a must. Just my .02 trying to help out in what I see. Good luck guys.

 

Reason I never put a solid rear in is because I run the street class. None of the sanctioning bodies allow an IRS to solid swap. Otherwise I would have done it.

 

Gottcha. Aren't there alot more classes that you can run in that allow the solid axle though?

 

If anyones interested the 4.77 Rx8 gears fit the FD heads.

Also, B1600, B2000,and B2200 commercial diff heads (3rd members) can be made to fit the FC cases and axles, enabling ratios up to 5.1

 

The gear ratio's is the least of the problems. Its everything else in between. CV joints aren't made for drag racing period, just ask the Honda guys.

 

I disagree with the handling statement by Eric and Jay, there is a big difference in handling through corners unless you drive like a granny then you wont know the difference, IRS would kill any solid axel car through corners period.

Yes a Solid rear end makes for a more reliable drag race car. In terms of cost I wont know until I hit 9s, I have only spent money on a Kazz diff and a Petit launch kit and diff brace which is approx 1K. Nothing has broken yet! lol touch wood but probably will lol haha

I need to keep IRS for the Street Class Im running in and that I still use it on Circuits and taking it to the Ring.

 

On a roadcoarse, the IRS is better.

But, a properly setup solid axle is more than enough for the occasional on/off ramps on the hwy/street.