Does anyone know if the thread size and pitch are the same as the stock bolts (at the front iron) or do you have to drill and tap the front iron?


TIA

 

You have to drill and tap.

 

Search through a pile of head bolts, you're bound to find something that fits

 

Is that what Abel told you!

 

They make 2 different sizes. One size is slightly larger than the stock studs but do NOT require any machining. The other set does require machine.

 

no, I only talked to him about a waterpump adapter.

The headbolt thing is all me baby !

 

You know I was joking right?

 

of course..................

 

Yeah, i am going to go with the oversized ones. I am going to need all the help i can get. On the other hand Eric is going to use some grade 5 allthread.

 

Lowes has a great selection. Those coupled with a few C-Clamps should work wonders

 

Don't forget the cordless drill also!

 

'Fish'



~S~

 

'Tuna'

 

Is good to eat?

~S~

 

What is the size and the thread pitch that you have to chance the front iron to?

 

I use this set on my drag car.The pitch thread is 1/2-20.You have to be careful

when you drill into the face with the right drill bit because if you don't use the

right tooling you can just throw away your good iron.Or you can be creative and

just drill through the face and put a longer stud with nuts on both ends.This was a

desperate move i did when i messed up my last good iron for a race.

 

the stud kit works great if machined properly. i have done a couple of engines 2 and 3 rotor. they are done on a cnc that is the only way for them to come out perfect and maintain tolerances so they do the job they were made for.

 

dude, that is bad ***. I never thought about that.... how did it hold up? do you still use that setup?

 

Not to mention when the time comes to change a housing the CNC will match the previous machine work done right?
Something not possible when using non automated process.

 

That's how they are done on the 3-rotor anyway. The 13B REW/RE and 20B front housings are the only ones casted from factory to allow this to be done easily. It's nice to have nuts on both ends of the studs.

 

 

A CNC isn't the only way. I've got a machinist that has finished mine using a mill & various "tools" he's created, like a "bushing" insert that uses the reamed rotor housing holes to guide the correct drill bit for the front iron. But then again this guy has been a machinist for over 25 years and works at a company that uses CNC mills & lathes to modify guns & rifles for the S.B. Sheriff's department and the Twentynine Palms Marine Base. He's got the process down where the engine will go together, albeit a little snug, at .503" on the holes...we ended up taking it to .508" as recommended by the kit. For those who don't know the studs themselves are .500"...we're talking the thickness of a piece of paper in difference.

As for the rotor housings, he made the tooling as such that it will take 15 minutes to get the rotor housing to match the rest of the engine using his mill and various piloted reamers he's custom made.

 

How much does he charge you for this?

anyone ever though of just doing three studs on the spark plug side and 2 on the exhaust side, or some other combination, instead of all or all but one?

 

Most people I know only use four studs. You can buy the studs individually from PR.

 

they look like gigantic head studs