actually, i use viton oil seals as well. I have never heard of anyone using TEC for oil seals, and people have been using viton as an upgrade for years without problems...

viton is rated to 400 F. Coolant seals are in contact with coolant on one side, whcih never goes over 250 F. Stock mazda are silicone with a teflon strip on the combustion side.

Also, Ted, mcmaster TEC o-rings are only rated to 400 F, so I fail to see the advantage?

 

does anyone know what are oem rated for?
Didnt Blake say that he doesnt recomend viton for oil seals that people had problems?
I belive what you say, i might go with viton also. Most of us have limited budget woundnt you agree?

 

Damn I bet you wish you would have studded the engine? What series engine you got?

 

A
yeah, i wish i had skipped pinning and gone straight to studs. Its still my plan to stud it this winter.

 

you're getting flex on a pinned engine at 17-21 psi? damn, son, you're no joke!

 

17 psi = 600 whp
21 psi = ?

 

like i said, you're no joke!

 

It was just something interesting that I came across...

I dunno where the got the 500F reading from, but I'm suspicious of that number.
If anything the inner coolant seals would actually be hotter, cause they are closer to the combustion chamber.
Just because coolant is on the other side of the o-ring doesn't mean that the opposite side facing the combustion chamber is also that (cooler) temperature...

I don't trust Viton in this application, and I don't think there's enough experience (and mileage) to be making a definitive decision if it's okay or not.
If the Viton seals can last for 100k miles, then I'll be convinced.
It's sorta like all the aftermarket apex seals bandwagon a lot of people jumped on - I waited for enough experience and mileage to pile up before making a conclusion.
Sure enough, a lot of them were crap.

I just find it funny that the aircraft guys are shying away from Viton and recommend the Teflon stuff over it.
I'd trust the airplane guys' recommendation myself.
I've used the McMaster rings for my engine and for other rebuilds.
I've had zero problems with them - some of them were even reused.
I've got over 30k miles on my engine with them, and I see no reason to change at this point in time.


-Ted

 

I will be rebuilding my motor real soon and was wondering if the "teflon" seals you talk about are the same as oem seals? If not where would one get these seals? How about the $50 ebay ones? I had purchased a set for a prior rebuild and they seemed to be thinner than stock? Any feedback on them? Thanks

 

DO NOT USE THE VITON O RINGS. On my last engine I took apart, one of the seals were pinched and the motor kept burning coolant. They are oversized if you ask me. The thing is, mostly every high horse power cars use the original seals and they don't have any problems. Why TRY something that could go wrong? Been there, don't use.

 

So again where would one find better seals?

 

if the seal was pinched, that is the fault of whoever built the engine, not the seal.

latin 270 I believe the eBay ones are silicone not viton. I personally do not think silicone is durable enough for this and would not use them, but you can try it. I have built a motor with them in the past, and they seemed to work, but the guy i built the motor for blew it up before they were even really broke in, so who knows

Guys I am not trying to say that this is the best thing in the world, all I am saying is that so far, Ive had good results with it, and that it did hold up to some time in a moderately high powered engine, and I think it is sure as hell worth checking out further.

pat

 

There is a simple expression, don't let a 2 cent part cost you a race. O-rings are made hundreds of thousands at a time, you will have some with defects. Don't blame the design because some retard didn't spend 10 seconds to look at the thing before installing it.

How many of you check a rubber for holes before you put it on for a fun night...?

Assumption is the mother of all f&^k ups.

 

Can some one plz give me part numbers for viton oil o-rings?

 

just an update here.... I had a boost controller issue last fall and ran this thing up to 24+psi on an ecu that can only read 21, so I ended up blowing it again. Killed 3 apex seals.

I just stacked it this morning, used the same coolant seals from the beginning of this thread (thats 3 times now, around 10k miles of 600+whp).

Seals still look great. I did notice that on one of my housings that has been lapped a couple times the outer seal (cord stock) is a lottle too big for the groove- it has a little flat area where it looks like it squeezed out some, but I never had any problems so I went ahead and put it back in. Inner ones were perfect.

Bottom line- this is far from proven, but from my experience it seems to work great.

just though some people would like to know..

 

whats the update on your set up PAT??

 

Does he even come here anymore? This thread is almost eight years old and six years since its last update.

That said, I use Viton cord from McMaster-Carr and have seen 230f coolant temps on occasion and everything is still fine.

 

Where's patman?

 

I recently updated the Rotary Aviation coolant seal thread with some Viton info.

 

Sorry guys, I don't have much time for forums anymore.

I am sorry to say that my 20B has been sitting in the garage for a couple years now, halfway through a FD build. I got married, bought a Lotus, changed jobs and moved across the country, blah blah blah.

I believe some of my friends have built engines using the same Mcmaster cord stock with good results, but would have to let them speak for themselves.

At the time I pulled the engine from the TII and started the FD project, it had about 12k miles on it, all at 600+ WHP, and 2 rebuilds, with no issues from the coolant seals. All I can say is I intend to re-use the things again when I finally get the FD done and do a refresh.