TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hello all.

I was going to post this in the second gen section but I thought I would get better results here.

So first let me start with my past experiences. I have had my 88 GTU for a couple years now I am on my 5th or 6th engine. I started with NA and ended up converting everything to turbo. I am currently running a turbo 6 port high compression doing 184.5 @ 4 psi on stock everything. Sadly I just blew a side seal (75 75 30 compression) and am planning my next (and final) motor.

That being said, I am making plans, and taking apart ALL of my past blown or not blown engines. I have rotors and housings all over the place. The rebuild process looks pretty simple and strait forward. (I also wanted a diy rebuild video).

I have access to almost all parts seeing how I am officially a mazdaspeed member now.

Anyways I am tired of putting in used high milage engines and I have decided to start fresh. I am looking to put down around 400 rwhp safely and daily. When drift season starts again I will be drifting. (please don't hate me because I like to slide around. I do it only at the tracks) The main thing for now though is plans to build it strong and able to handle the turbo I will be installing later. (I have not decided that yet.)

My current plans are this:

FD housings
RX-8 e-shaft
regular rebuild stuff - (OEM apex seals, apex springs, orings, side seals and so on)
Atkins solid side seals
FD side seal springs
T2 primary ports (intermediate plate)
NA secondary + aux port (side plates)
Both with a minor street port
Competition Rotor Bearings
Competition Rear Main Bearing
Pineapple Racing coolant seals
S4 T2 8.5 low compression rotors
Thermal palet mod
Dynamic Balancing from either Pineapple or Atkins
Shimming the oil pressure regulators for just slightly higher oil pressure


That is all I have right now. I know I won't be making power at higher RPM (8500) but I would like to have the ability to bounce the needle off 8500 for a sec in case I need to hold a drift without shifting. Basically I am looking for a build plan where I could go a good 80,000 miles without worry, even after adding enough boost to put down some serious power.

Obviously later down the road a FMIC, meth injection, and fuel upgrades are going to be needed, but I will be running stock turbo, with a haltech until I can save up for a real turbo setup. (also it will help me be nice on the break in period) Right now I am just making plans for the core.

So that is my plan, if you have any recommendations, comments, or helpful information, I will be happy to listen. I know there are some very knowledgeable people on this forum. I hope I have gave enough pre-information for some good feedback.

Thank you, and thanks for everything in advance.

Kyrasis6

Pin or dowel the block or the engine will be short lived. For the plates I would try to find an S5 rear plate that has the beefier casting on the top dowel, may need to look around I hear few of them where actually made like this.

Keep in mind some of the journal sizes are a little different on the RX-8 eshaft so you'll need to get bearings with the right clearances. Any of the rotary vendors can tell you what you would need to go with.

You'll also need a cleaner place to rebuild it than what you have in the picture.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Awesome yes, I remember hearing about the pin and dowels. I don't exactly remember what it is, but I will definitely research it. It basically stops the flex and bubble gum effect in the engine correct?

I should only worry about the rear plate needing the extra reinforcement? With the s5 plates would I still be able to run the s4 LIM or would I need to change to s5? I will have to port match it for the 5/6th ports if so.

Thanks for the tips and thanks for the info about the rx8 shaft journal sizes. I did not know there was a difference, I thought it was a direct drop in.

Any others guys? Am I on the right track?

Kyrasis6

Ah, sorry meant to say pin or stud the block. Many people will get extra dowels and machine them to fit into the block to keep it from flexing although studs are suppose to do the job better. I personally believe that if someone makes their own dowels in the right fashion and fit them that you could make it just as strong but I got let go from work before getting a chance to make them to test it.

As far as I know the S5 rear plate is the only one Mazda beefed up the casting on in that area. It can be identified by a triangular shapped gusset cast between the oil filter pedistal and the upper dowel boss. There should be no strength differences in any of the other plates to my knowledge. Do not attempt to add material to the irons by welding, because of the nature of the metal you cannot reliably weld cast iron and have it stay structurally sound. When you weld it you put stress in the area around the weld that will fail in the future.

Not sure on the LIM, but I don't see any difference in patterns between the aux ports on the plates I have. The sleeves are all the same though.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Looks like I have updated my plans a bit.

Instead of s5 plates, I will be going RE with an RE intake setup. Does anybody think this could be a bad idea? Still using FD housings..

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

No that will work nicely. Ask me how I know.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

how do you know?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok so I have decided that I am going to buy a full 13b-RE engine. From taking all my engines apart I have found that (even on the blown engines) all the side plates have been perfect. Even on my high high 100,000 mile engines. If I buy a 13B-RE (even if it is blown) am I going to take the plates, intake, alternator waterpump and everything, and basically just replace the housings with FD housings.

I could either buy all the RE plates for 300$ each, RE intake for some more, or buy a complete engine for as low as $1500 (I have found so far). And like I said before it doesn't matter if it is blown or not because I am going to be rebuilding anyways.

Drop in some 8.5 compression rotors, FD housings, little oil mods, compitition brearings and such and be off.

How does this sound? Better plan?

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

IN my 10th AE it has T2 intermediate ( motor mounts are there), RE end plates, FD housings, 8.5:1 rotors, RE intake, and some more goodies. Just be carefull as sometimes the RE's sit w/ a little water in them and the coolant passages can rust and let water leak into the coolant O-ring areas. Good plan and good luck. Sorry no dyno numbers from my set up yet. Maybe at the 1st of DEC.

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

I forgot to mention that you will have to fill in part of the lower intake manifold on the RE to make it match up to the T2 primaries.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

but if I get the full RE wont I have RE primaries? I would just have to get the little motor mount adapters...
Are you running the stock twins or some other turbo?



Did someone have pictures of the fd fd and RE plates next to each other?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ohhh man I have been reading all about the new renesis 16x motor and was thinking how awesome it would be to have the extra 23% displacement... but then I realised that the rotor would be high compression and you could not change them... and none of the intake or manifolds would work.

I know this is kind of a useless post but I wanted to share my depression.