Suggestion: individually cool each rotor case. Otherwise, by the time you insert coolant in one end, and it comes out the other, the first rotor in line will be overcooled, while the rear one will be undercooled. It would take some work, but you can't just keep stacking rotors and expect the cooling to be consistent.

A cheaper alternative is to just make sure that the flow rate of the coolant is extremely high, so temperature drop across the entire engine is fairly even, and that you have enough radiator to dramatically lower the temperature of the coolant.

Further, using pure propylene glycol (marketed as Low Tox by Prestone, white bottle, and Sierra in the green bottle) will enable you to use no water in your cooling system, AND no pressure.

I have run two Dodge Power Wagons, my RX7, and a Dodge Neon with no pressure and Propylene Glycol. Ran my RX7 up on top of a 10,800 ft mountain here in Hawaii and yanked the (drilled out for no pressure) cap off right in front of my face, no boiling. And I was not driving slowly.

Propylene glycol rules.

 

You plan on running this with pp's right?

 

Good Infor I did not know that he was the one that sold the kit to the others, I did however notice a similarity. Thanks

I have thought about cooling capacity this will be done by dual Electric water pumps to keep the flow at an acceptable rate.

Yes I am P-Porting it

 

here is the pump that I will most likely use to flow the coolant it flows 2100 gph. that should be sufficient to cool a 4 rotor engine.

http://www.straightline-perf.com/cat...roduct-69.html

 

Why not opt for their 55 gpm (3300 gph) units? Pretty similar pricing, same reliability, more flow.

 

ah yes I actually just found that after posting that link, I do plan on using the highest flow I can get and the 55gpm seems to be it. But their controller is very pricey but I guess such is the cost of the project so far my price estimate not including rims rubber and paint this project is going to run me to 60-65k.

 

hey i know where to get 4rotor kits i'm building one at this moment.

 

i might have missed it but what program did you use to model the Eshaft in? and would you mind sharing the cad file, if not i can understand.

 

i dunno if i would go with propylene glycol simply because of the lower specific heat of it. a high flow rate water system would probably be best.

 

have you worked out harmonic vibs yet?

 

I have modeled it in Solid Edge Cad program.... it has been tested in Alegory and the Cad is just about perfect, but it seems that due to the Chromoly steel I will be limmited to 10,000 rpm... the e-shaft just flexes too much to go more than that reliably.

4 rotores where are these kits from post a link or info on them what are they based on and their cost.

I would like to share the cad, however I do not wish to share something that is not physically tested yet, I hope you understand. As soon as the engine is on an engine dyno, broken in, and tuned and ran to the ragged edge without catastrofic failure I will make the cad available to anyone who wishes to have it... or maybe I will just sell e-shafts for cost recovery... I don't want someone proffiting off of my design when it is intended for the use of enthusiasts only not enthusiast Buisnisses.

 

kiwi-re

 

cool which ever way you go let me in on it ok...

 

I second this. Why re-invent the wheel for 65-70% the cost, with the possibility that it could fail and you could be out that money. Please, as TurboJeff's Avitar says, "Do it once, do it right."

 

the kits are from kiw-re but amv racing is the us distribuitor for kiwi-re and carlos lopez is the builder of the rest of the engine.

 

if you go in to amv racing.com and you go to rotary engine building you would see how my engine would be. and they could be based on any series rx7 for example my engine is based on fd3s parts.

 

Yes I am aware of the 4 rotor e-shaft and kit that Kiwi RE produces, I do not like the method they use for the rotor gear's that is why I did not purchase theirs, plus in order to maintain easy rebuildability I wanted parts that were easily had, and not have to send it out for modification everytime something might happen to the engine. The rest of the parts are easy to obtain in good condition. In addition the only great cost involves the engineering the part but since I do this in my own time as a hobby that is not a cost to me. I expect a finished e-shaft after testing would be in at arround 4500 dollars per including the Bolts wich would be required to make the engine. Mine will use all OEM mazda parts without modification with the exception of the P-Porting wich would not be required for a 4-rotor. Only difference is my 4 rotor will be about 1.25 inches longer than that of the Kiwi Re version.

Keep in mind I will not be doing this as a buisness.I am not looking to make money out of this.... it is mostly because I love these engines and think that their developement should continue not end because mazda has started to stop making parts.
Look at what Year One and Edelbrock among many others do for vintage muscle cars. This is what I hope to see happen for the RE's.

 

Jreynish,
We're doing similar job here - designing a rotary powered car. Engine will be made by SLR (most likely)

With transaxle your choice is limited:

Audi 01E - good up to ~ 500hp (all power figures a fly wheel) cheap but relatively weak.

Porsche G50, G50/50 - can take a lot but needs some mods.

Ricardo gearbox as used in Ford GT (heavy but works fine) ~ 18000USD

RBT's recreation of ZF transaxle ~ 11000USD but torque capacity is limited.

Grasiano - makes boxes for ferrari

Sema/Gearfox - choice of top supercars - Pagani Zonda, Koenigsegg, Apollo etc.
This one is our choice as well.

Some new boxes are coming to market - nothing is as good as Gearfox but cheaper.

Good luck
Ted

PS: Clutch - AP racing twin plate 240mm

 

What about the Z06 trans-axle....should be cost effective by comparison

 

Z06 doesn't have a transaxle per se. . .its is a forward mounted engine configuration

 

XTrac also recently developed a transaxle for road car use... and this is ignoring racing transaxles.

 

But the gearbox is in back.

 

this is true, mated right up to the diff. . .why i said "per se" is that it in no way facilitates a rearward engine placement as the OP was seeking.

Now, there are gear reversal systems that one could buy and fit to the flywheel and then to the torque tube input and have that type of system, but it will be too large in all likelihood. the front of the z06 tranny (front being the part facing the front of the car since we're talking about different orientations) ends up being near the stock shifter location on an fd. . .I don't remember exactly, but there are pictures in the t56 to fd thread in the 3rd gen section.

 

I'm currently designing a 2 piece 2 rotor eccentric shaft with a center bearing in AutoCAD. I'm going to FEA stress test it in Autodesk Inventor before I try to machine it. I work at a large machine shop that makes pumps for the oil drilling industry. We machine eccentric shafts here the size of trucks. I sit behind a computer all day drawing these various parts up. I'm curious to see how you are doing the front and rear rotors. Have you designed it based off of the 20B 3 rotor shaft with a tapered keyway at the front and rear? I'm, doing something similar to this for the 2 rotor shaft design. I'm also going to test roller bearings but I have my reservations about how well they can work.

If you have a way to move that file over to AutoCAD, I'd love to take at look at it.

 

nice/.......we will rule the streets with wankles...LOL..LOL...LOOL (evil laughs)