With my dinsount i get the 12a housings brand new for a little over 250. I will keep buying new ones...

CJG

 

I would do the same as you would. Anybody that buys any pports from Racing Beat or another source would be more inclined to have them repaired.
Unless of course there are some of you getting those new for $300 or making them yourself.

 

I just got the call that the housings are ready to pick it at the spray shop! I am taking tomorrow off and have all weekend to work on them and check with Ken on when we can put the motor together.
Pics to follow.

 

Finally


Can't wait to see the engine run.. And even more, some miles put on it!



Good luck..

 

Results, Scalliwag, results!!!.

No, really - I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Keep us posted!

Brandon

 

Unfortunately the motor going into Ken's only gets a 1/4 mile at a time But it is going on Ken's test stand, then the engine dyno and getting a lot of break-in time before it ever goes into the car. We will be monitoring the compression and that will tell us a lot.
But in the end this will only show how well it will work as a race motor.

 

Haha! I will be sure to post RESULTS!

 

Well, it will still be nice to see some real world results.


How many runs before he plans on pulling it apart to see how the coating stood up?



-Zach

 

Ken has a problem he is working the bugs out of where he tears up rear mains pretty quickly. He had the rotating assembly balanced on the current motor and he hopes that helps.
He launches at 11k and my gut feeling is that when the clutch locks down all the sudden torque beats the hell out of the bearing.
So between races he has to go get a look around if nothing else to remove the rear housing to get a look/change the main.
We will pull it apart all the way since we are that far because he will want to know what it is looking like as well.

 

Not to hyjack the thread but I'm REALLY interested in a new S5 turbo housing for $300. I need one asap.

Keep up the good work Scalliwag!

 

I do too! It sucks that he is in New Zealand so it would cost more to get them here than to buy them outright from Mazda would be my guess.

 

Hi guys. The freshly sprayed housings are in my possesion. I had to take care of a couple of things this morning and now I am set to start.
The test housing was sprayed with Armacor C if you can remember back that far in the thread. Then later on I found out Armacor M was the way to go and then there was confusion for a bit and that was clarified. So Armacor M did remain the most recommended alloy to try.
Right off the bat I could tell that the material is a little darker and the texture is not as jagged as the Armacor C was. I think you will be able to tell pretty easy when I get some pics up.
So it's time to play!

 

Sounds good! I can't wait to see how this turns out. I knew it was a good idea to keep my old block lyin' around

-Manolis

 

All was going well and I was very happy how the material was reacting with my tooling. It was grinding smoother on the first pass than the test housing with the Armacor C did.
As I am grinding though I notice that something is not right. Where I was at I should have been into solid material at that point of my procedure.
I pull the housing off and pin it to one of Ken's new housings and sure as **** it had not been sprayed thick enough
The spray shop does not get back until after lunch (1'ish) so I figured I may as well post while I wait for them.
I am very happy with the feel of the "M" alloy and like I said it is doing well with the tooling though so at least I know it is looking good so far.
When you look at the bottom picture you can see how the spray process is not very even. It is not as bad as you may think though. The ground area is higher than the area that is untouched just in case that is not obvious
Sorry Brandon, no RESULTS yet, but I'm trying hard!

 

Holy this is a very sweet thread...WTG on all your hard work and determination Scalliwag. Can't wait to hear how she runs.....prrrrrrrrrrfect......

 

Oh, I forgot to post what they looked like after they were sprayed. I got them back to the spray shop. They are just a little under sprayed. They are going to try to have them ready Monday.
So tomorrow I am going to pport those new housings Ken gave me to do. I will post a couple of pics of that process. A new housing getting a fatass hole drilled in the side of it.

 

Okay just in case you are new to the thread these pictures are not resurfaced housings (disclaimer)
Here are Ken's new housings I just finished pporting.
These have to be finished as far as some small welds on the outer side and epoxy in the water jackets around the tube. I removed the exhaust inserts to make it easier for Ken to do his port work.
I thought this might interest you guys but please don't PM me for any measurements or port timing.

 

I got so pissed when the housings were undersprayed I forgot about the side plate I got sprayed. I had them do a test spray so they just grit blasted and then they sprayed it without any masking.
Once my parts are in from the machine shop for my version of a surface polisher I will be able to test how it works.

 

I'm hungry.

 

Scalliwag: How are you going to refinish the O-Ring groooves in the side housing?

I would also suggest making a Go:no-go gage to use on the housings to check for proper spraying thickness when you pick them up

 

I'm only machining the area just within the inner o-ring (the wear surface) Since this plate was just being used as a test I did not go to the trouble of prepping it for use. I just need to be able to put a flat/level/polished finish to see how my machine works.

As far as the rotor housings; yhes a gauge will need to be made since they were not able to get it on their own.
The biggest problem is with the inconsistency of the thickness. the gauge would have to be setup to check the entire wall top to bottom.
Quite the pain in the ***.

 

The only concern I have with your method of just coating the "wear" area of the side plates: How are you going to handle the transition from Spray build-up to virgin sideplate? At the intersection of those two areas there is going to be a "transition".

 

The outer area of transition is just within the inner o-ring but still under the rotor housing.
If you lay a rotor housing on a side plate and trace the shape with a pencil. Then take the rotor housing off. The area half way between the pencil line and the o-ring groove is where I mill to.
The inner transition will be all the way to the hole that the eshaft comes through. That is far away from the frictional surface as well.

 

I went back reading over some of the thread and I hit this link from page 4 where a guy had PM'ed it to me about the micro channel plating.
I decided to read back over some details and ran into something that I did not catch the first time.http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rx-7/message/4486
The part that got me was where he said they started using "baked carbon graphite" to assist "bedding" of the apex seals.
Evidently the new TII housings must have this process being used now.
If you recall in a recent post when I was looking at the surface and remarking about there seems to be a coating that appears to be graphite based.
It looked like they had put graphite in some type of enamel to stabilize it. Since I have never seen or heard of "baked carbon graphite" it never occured to me what I was looking at.
Ken tried to tell me that it was just the finish I argued that hard chrome would have never had any staged of the process that would have looked like that.

Hmmm. I think I am going to go back and read up some more and see what other things I may have passed over while trying to absorb all of this

 

scalliwag... ok since you won't port your housings, since you are afraid of stepping on other engine builders toes... i suggest this...

GO to racing beat... buy a set of the racing beat templates... their street port ones and port to those standards... therefore you will not be blamed for copying another engine builder's porting designs