my plates and gears are at racing beat right now getting lapped and new bearings. I figured i'd just go with some new stock bearings but they told me i should go with mazda race bearings due to the increased oil capabilities. The car will put out around 400 to 450 and see occasional strip time but out much. Are race bearings par for the course in this situation?

 

anything that improves lubrication is a good thing. it stands for regular engines and is especially true for high powered engine.

 

so along with there bearings i intend to shim the thermovalve and one regulator and crush the other as per pineapple's video. Should this be sufficent for my application? Please Forgive my ignorance i'm new to the rotor game.

 

which engine are you using? T, RE or REW? you wouldn't need to shim anything or modify the rear regulator on an REW. any of the others can benefit from mods or parts swaps with the REW or aftermarket.

thermovalve? if you're referring to the front of the e-shaft, then just get the replacement piece that deletes it altogether. they're not expensive at all.

 

it's an rew. I must have misunderstood then. So there are really no internal oil mods i should be doing with the motor apart?

 

Are they talking about the 3 window race bearing? I thought the FD had a 3 window bearing also but my memory is foggy on that one.

From what I have heard, those bearing are pretty damn good.

I think there are also some different oil jets that can be put in the E-shaft for better oiling, let me go read up on it and I'll get back to you on this one.

-Maniac

 

There should be no need to replace your REW bearings, as they are 9-hole bearings.
Those "race" bearings are 3-slot version which can stock on a Cosmo motor.


-Ted

 

Are you referring to the thermal-pellet? If so, just purchase one from atkins for like $8.00. Check it out: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...id=16401&cat=0

Also, ask Racing Beat if they "re-nitrade" the surface of the irons. I've heard bad things can happen in the (later) rotary engines without the surface being retreated. You might want to question them on this.

 

I've done some research on this and it seems on 86 and up models you can take a MAX of .002 of with no consequence. Some even say .003.

 

some more info. Rb says they custom cut factory stationary gear bearings for their 3 window design and use mazda comp bearings in the rotors. So i guess that.the route i'll be going.

 

yeah, they must have been talking about rotor bearings because as you know by now, the REW comes stock with modified mains.

 

Another update, ups cracked the rear iron now I have to get another one.

 

How the hell did UPS crack a rear iron?

I have also heard that the main bearings usually don't have any issues unless they have been replaced. Is this hearsay or is this factual?

 

traditionally, "seasoned" bearings are preferred. unless something went very wrong with the motor before the rebuild, more often than not, wear is not an issue and break-in issues are reduced by re-using them.