"RA SuperSeal" ?
08-12-06, 02:40 AM
#76
Passenger
Posts: n/a
here is a copy of an e-mail i just sent off to Larua at rotary avaition:
can you sell me a single RA super seal? sad story, while assembling the engine the triangle piece of the apex seal popped out and fell down the tension bolt hole and I did not know it and as I was tightening the tension bolt it chipped a corner off of the triangle, so I need a new seal, haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad..... I know they are sold out but I thought you might have a single one or a set for warranty replacement laying around that you could split up.......... need asap,,, thanks for anything you can do...
Jeremy
can you sell me a single RA super seal? sad story, while assembling the engine the triangle piece of the apex seal popped out and fell down the tension bolt hole and I did not know it and as I was tightening the tension bolt it chipped a corner off of the triangle, so I need a new seal, haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad..... I know they are sold out but I thought you might have a single one or a set for warranty replacement laying around that you could split up.......... need asap,,, thanks for anything you can do...
Jeremy
08-12-06, 03:24 PM
#77
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by drago86
Sorry for the delay, I went camping. I sent everything i have; Tony, your E-mail was bouncing tho.
08-21-06, 10:14 AM
#79
development
anyone use the RA racing apex seal springs?
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/spring...apex_seals.htm
$72 a set?!?!
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/spring...apex_seals.htm
$72 a set?!?!
08-21-06, 03:26 PM
#80
Originally Posted by dubulup
anyone use the RA racing apex seal springs?
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/spring...apex_seals.htm
$72 a set?!?!
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/spring...apex_seals.htm
$72 a set?!?!
Hmm would be nice if they posted more info about them.
08-25-06, 12:38 AM
#81
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fallston, MD
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RotorMotor2
here is a copy of an e-mail i just sent off to Larua at rotary avaition:
can you sell me a single RA super seal? sad story, while assembling the engine the triangle piece of the apex seal popped out and fell down the tension bolt hole and I did not know it and as I was tightening the tension bolt it chipped a corner off of the triangle, so I need a new seal, haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad..... I know they are sold out but I thought you might have a single one or a set for warranty replacement laying around that you could split up.......... need asap,,, thanks for anything you can do...
Jeremy
can you sell me a single RA super seal? sad story, while assembling the engine the triangle piece of the apex seal popped out and fell down the tension bolt hole and I did not know it and as I was tightening the tension bolt it chipped a corner off of the triangle, so I need a new seal, haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad..... I know they are sold out but I thought you might have a single one or a set for warranty replacement laying around that you could split up.......... need asap,,, thanks for anything you can do...
Jeremy
I mean, if I received that email, I'd delete it immediately without reading it.
I do like the way you mixed it up with the unnecessary repetition of commas among the normal unnecessary repetition of periods.
Last edited by rarson; 08-25-06 at 12:42 AM.
08-25-06, 10:59 AM
#82
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Whatever dood, poor spelling is not going to blow my engine or if I fail your grammer test. Laura understood perfectly fine what I said, and replied properly. The only thing that should be looked over on these fourms is typos that are important like specs or advice.
08-25-06, 02:32 PM
#83
Originally Posted by rarson
I mean, if I received that email, I'd delete it immediately without reading it.
08-27-06, 10:51 PM
#84
rotary sensei
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by No_Rotor_RX7
i would just like to say, we use these super seals in a lot of our engines and have had wonderful success. you always have to be sure you check the tolerances with these tho. every rotor is slightly different and these seals are a tad on the thick side. a little sanding goes a long way to making sure there is no binding and therefore no excessive wear.
hell, one of my buddies has cracked 3 rear plates on his s4 TII setup because of severely high egt's (he refuses to get a tune
) and yet these seals have been perfectly fine and slapped back in for every rebuild with perfect compression results.
hell, one of my buddies has cracked 3 rear plates on his s4 TII setup because of severely high egt's (he refuses to get a tune
) and yet these seals have been perfectly fine and slapped back in for every rebuild with perfect compression results.From your profile...
"Car: 83 V8 RX7"
j/k....btw
08-27-06, 11:26 PM
#85
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
08-28-06, 04:50 AM
#86
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are going to try and measure the hardness of any of these seals the rockwell method isnt really that good, especially for the coated/nitrided seals. The thickness of the surface treatment is so thin that a rockwell hardness reading will be dominated by the bulk material properties. Surprisingly some of the thin coatings available offer huge increases in wear relalated life. In this sort of application the different seal materials/coatings will have very little difference in friction coeficients, different lubricants will have a bigger affect.
When it comes to untreated (nitrided etc) metal seals you would be hard pressed to find anything better (wear resistance) than the mazda seals, in this type of application cast iron does have the adavntage containing a solid lubricant.
Another note that may be of interest is the 'electron beam chilling' process is not actually a chilling process, a very localised area is rapidly heated, the thermal mass of the seal then effectivly quenches the heated area giving a rapid cooling, this is a similar idea to the heat affected zone in a weld. This process can also be done using a laser.
When it comes to untreated (nitrided etc) metal seals you would be hard pressed to find anything better (wear resistance) than the mazda seals, in this type of application cast iron does have the adavntage containing a solid lubricant.
Another note that may be of interest is the 'electron beam chilling' process is not actually a chilling process, a very localised area is rapidly heated, the thermal mass of the seal then effectivly quenches the heated area giving a rapid cooling, this is a similar idea to the heat affected zone in a weld. This process can also be done using a laser.
12-09-06, 05:48 AM
#87
multipersonality disorder
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: so. cal
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
been a while since we had an update on this thread.
i've got about 5k miles on my engine and i think it's FINALLY broken in! i did lube coatings on all the housings, etc, though. i'm sure that extended the break-in period and hopefully the overall longevity of the motor.
RA super seals, atkins solid corners, and stock sides, all stock springs. only seals that were reused were the metal oil rings, but they were well within spec. my ported engine pulls about 18-19" of vacuum @ 850 rpm! that's pretty damn good for a ported engine. hell, that's pretty good for a stock engine!
i built the motor with a cosmo intermediate and rew sides, 8.5:1 s4 rotors so i can boost it to hell on pump gas
renny e-shaft, stationaries, and rotor bearings. relatively tight bearing clearance so i can use the energy conserving 5w20 or 30 oil for better gas milage and slightly less drag on the engine.
to date, everything is operating perfectly as far as the engine is concerned. i'm boosting 1.2-1.3bar on 91 octane with a bit of methanol for safety. bb innovative large housing t66 hits 1.3 bar at 37-3800 rpm, depending on the ambient temp and altitude.
i've had ZERO hot or cold start problems, except i flooded the engine out once when i stalled it twice 2 seconds after startup. that was right when the weather got colder. i leaned out the coolant map a tad and that took care of that. engine always fires right up hot or cold with no throttle, even with my old starter with 150k+ miles on it...cranking about half speed or so.
i'm really pleased with this motor and the seals. i'll just have to wait to tear it down to inspect the rotor housings and get the word on increased wear or not.
i've got about 5k miles on my engine and i think it's FINALLY broken in! i did lube coatings on all the housings, etc, though. i'm sure that extended the break-in period and hopefully the overall longevity of the motor.
RA super seals, atkins solid corners, and stock sides, all stock springs. only seals that were reused were the metal oil rings, but they were well within spec. my ported engine pulls about 18-19" of vacuum @ 850 rpm! that's pretty damn good for a ported engine. hell, that's pretty good for a stock engine!
i built the motor with a cosmo intermediate and rew sides, 8.5:1 s4 rotors so i can boost it to hell on pump gas
renny e-shaft, stationaries, and rotor bearings. relatively tight bearing clearance so i can use the energy conserving 5w20 or 30 oil for better gas milage and slightly less drag on the engine.to date, everything is operating perfectly as far as the engine is concerned. i'm boosting 1.2-1.3bar on 91 octane with a bit of methanol for safety. bb innovative large housing t66 hits 1.3 bar at 37-3800 rpm, depending on the ambient temp and altitude.
i've had ZERO hot or cold start problems, except i flooded the engine out once when i stalled it twice 2 seconds after startup. that was right when the weather got colder. i leaned out the coolant map a tad and that took care of that. engine always fires right up hot or cold with no throttle, even with my old starter with 150k+ miles on it...cranking about half speed or so.
i'm really pleased with this motor and the seals. i'll just have to wait to tear it down to inspect the rotor housings and get the word on increased wear or not.
12-10-06, 03:08 AM
#88
still 1.3 liter v8 eater
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rarson
Ummm, I don't know if this is an exact copy, but I'm guessing it is, since you called it "a copy of an e-mail..." etc. I'd like like to mention that if you are sending a serious email and expecting a serious reply, you should probably try things like proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation. That post above reads like a 12-year-old. Call me a grammar ****, internet police, whatever you like, but the sad truth is nobody wants to read ten sentences with thirty-seven periods and no capital letters. Especially not when you're trying to be taken seriously. Using phrases like "haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad" doesn't help either.
I mean, if I received that email, I'd delete it immediately without reading it.
I do like the way you mixed it up with the unnecessary repetition of commas among the normal unnecessary repetition of periods.
I mean, if I received that email, I'd delete it immediately without reading it.
I do like the way you mixed it up with the unnecessary repetition of commas among the normal unnecessary repetition of periods.
08-26-09, 05:26 PM
#89
Hardcore Rx7 *****
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I see that there has not been a post on this thread for quite sometime, I'm getting ready to rebuild a 13B REW and I'm trying to decide on seals for it. It will be for the street with a street port, single turbo setup, power FC (Tuned), 3-in exhaust, targetting around 500-550 RWHP so should I go with RA Classics, AL's "Unbreakable", or RA "Super Seals" trying to go for longevity since I have an '85 that I want to finish without tearing this one down....Thank you guys, this forum is awesome!
08-26-09, 05:49 PM
#90
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I'm running RA Black Super Seals in my recent build.
The motor has broken in very well over the last 1000 miles, vacuum has moved from ~12 inches HG to ~15 inches and compression is around 120 psi on all faces. The motor has seen over 17 psi of boost and is running well, dyno results to come soon
The motor has broken in very well over the last 1000 miles, vacuum has moved from ~12 inches HG to ~15 inches and compression is around 120 psi on all faces. The motor has seen over 17 psi of boost and is running well, dyno results to come soon
08-27-09, 10:56 AM
#91
Hardcore Rx7 *****
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok well that's good to hear but, I'm looking for maybe some longer term results I mean maybe some of the guys that posted on here from '06 can come back now and post some updates? I heard that the Super Seals are great but they destroy the housings quickly and that's why RA recommends the "Classics" if you're gonna be using them for the street, Goodfella, you having only put 1k miles on your engine and without a teardown wouldn't be able to tell me more about wear would you? Unless you've used them before I don't know but, you can tell me. I'm not taking your statement lightly or dismissing it, I'm just trying to figure out which to use for the specific purpose of "street use" since I have 2 cars and the other will eventually be a full blown race car. Thanks once again to everyone here!
08-28-09, 01:12 PM
#92
Finally Knows
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running RA Black Super Seals in my recent build.
The motor has broken in very well over the last 1000 miles, vacuum has moved from ~12 inches HG to ~15 inches and compression is around 120 psi on all faces. The motor has seen over 17 psi of boost and is running well, dyno results to come soon
The motor has broken in very well over the last 1000 miles, vacuum has moved from ~12 inches HG to ~15 inches and compression is around 120 psi on all faces. The motor has seen over 17 psi of boost and is running well, dyno results to come soon
Did you go with new side seals/corner seals and all springs? New housings?
Also, in your break in period, were you running Pre-mix or just straight OMP?
09-09-09, 01:16 PM
#95
My engine has RA Super Seals as well. I wanted to go with the ALS seals, but they were sold out at the time, and just like everyone here, needed my car running like yesterday so I went with the superseals 
. The engine has done absolutely great and has handled everything I have thrown at it(I attribute alot of that to David Jerome, who built it). I have since acquired a set of ALS seals and will be tearing the engine down at the end of this season most likely to check out the internals of the engine. I anticipate the engine will have somewhere between 5000-8000 miles on it, with approximately 3000-4000 of those being track miles.
WaachBack: When are you tearing your engine down? I look forward to what you find.
. The engine has done absolutely great and has handled everything I have thrown at it(I attribute alot of that to David Jerome, who built it). I have since acquired a set of ALS seals and will be tearing the engine down at the end of this season most likely to check out the internals of the engine. I anticipate the engine will have somewhere between 5000-8000 miles on it, with approximately 3000-4000 of those being track miles.WaachBack: When are you tearing your engine down? I look forward to what you find.
09-09-09, 09:50 PM
#96
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I've been using Pre-mix since day one, approx 8 oz's for a full tank. This with a working OMP. I also broke the engine in on Royal Purple full synthetic break in oil, 10w30 weight.
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
After the break in period I switched to Idemitsu 10w30 full synthetic.
09-09-09, 10:31 PM
#97
Rotary Enthusiast
ok well that's good to hear but, I'm looking for maybe some longer term results I mean maybe some of the guys that posted on here from '06 can come back now and post some updates? I heard that the Super Seals are great but they destroy the housings quickly and that's why RA recommends the "Classics" if you're gonna be using them for the street, Goodfella, you having only put 1k miles on your engine and without a teardown wouldn't be able to tell me more about wear would you? Unless you've used them before I don't know but, you can tell me. I'm not taking your statement lightly or dismissing it, I'm just trying to figure out which to use for the specific purpose of "street use" since I have 2 cars and the other will eventually be a full blown race car. Thanks once again to everyone here!
Is that long term enough? LOL...
09-10-09, 01:50 AM
#98
Finally Knows
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My engine has RA Super Seals as well. I wanted to go with the ALS seals, but they were sold out at the time, and just like everyone here, needed my car running like yesterday so I went with the superseals . The engine has done absolutely great and has handled everything I have thrown at it(I attribute alot of that to David Jerome, who built it). I have since acquired a set of ALS seals and will be tearing the engine down at the end of this season most likely to check out the internals of the engine. I anticipate the engine will have somewhere between 5000-8000 miles on it, with approximately 3000-4000 of those being track miles.
WaachBack: When are you tearing your engine down? I look forward to what you find.
. The engine has done absolutely great and has handled everything I have thrown at it(I attribute alot of that to David Jerome, who built it). I have since acquired a set of ALS seals and will be tearing the engine down at the end of this season most likely to check out the internals of the engine. I anticipate the engine will have somewhere between 5000-8000 miles on it, with approximately 3000-4000 of those being track miles.WaachBack: When are you tearing your engine down? I look forward to what you find.
09-11-09, 10:31 AM
#100
Hardcore Rx7 *****
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Angel that's what I'm talking about.... I needed a story like that for feedback, well I guess I'll just go safe and go with the Super Seals and maybe run pre-mix to minimize wear, but thanks Angel for the re-assurance, well I guess my mind is made up....thanks guys!