Finally got it. Interesting reading. Thanks for your troubles!

 

anyone use the RA racing apex seal springs?

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/spring...apex_seals.htm

$72 a set?!?!

 

Hmm would be nice if they posted more info about them.

 

Ummm, I don't know if this is an exact copy, but I'm guessing it is, since you called it "a copy of an e-mail..." etc. I'd like like to mention that if you are sending a serious email and expecting a serious reply, you should probably try things like proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation. That post above reads like a 12-year-old. Call me a grammar ****, internet police, whatever you like, but the sad truth is nobody wants to read ten sentences with thirty-seven periods and no capital letters. Especially not when you're trying to be taken seriously. Using phrases like "haven't even used it yet dammit im soo mad" doesn't help either.

I mean, if I received that email, I'd delete it immediately without reading it.

I do like the way you mixed it up with the unnecessary repetition of commas among the normal unnecessary repetition of periods.

 

Then odviously you have no business since. So basically you expect Laura to judge each customer on his or hers communication skills? Listen to yourself! Your so **** it's not even funny. You don't realize how big of an *** you are with that reply.

 

I can see you have a lot of confidence in them...

From your profile...

"Car: 83 V8 RX7"


j/k....btw

 

 

If you are going to try and measure the hardness of any of these seals the rockwell method isnt really that good, especially for the coated/nitrided seals. The thickness of the surface treatment is so thin that a rockwell hardness reading will be dominated by the bulk material properties. Surprisingly some of the thin coatings available offer huge increases in wear relalated life. In this sort of application the different seal materials/coatings will have very little difference in friction coeficients, different lubricants will have a bigger affect.

When it comes to untreated (nitrided etc) metal seals you would be hard pressed to find anything better (wear resistance) than the mazda seals, in this type of application cast iron does have the adavntage containing a solid lubricant.

Another note that may be of interest is the 'electron beam chilling' process is not actually a chilling process, a very localised area is rapidly heated, the thermal mass of the seal then effectivly quenches the heated area giving a rapid cooling, this is a similar idea to the heat affected zone in a weld. This process can also be done using a laser.

 

been a while since we had an update on this thread.

i've got about 5k miles on my engine and i think it's FINALLY broken in! i did lube coatings on all the housings, etc, though. i'm sure that extended the break-in period and hopefully the overall longevity of the motor.

RA super seals, atkins solid corners, and stock sides, all stock springs. only seals that were reused were the metal oil rings, but they were well within spec. my ported engine pulls about 18-19" of vacuum @ 850 rpm! that's pretty damn good for a ported engine. hell, that's pretty good for a stock engine!

i built the motor with a cosmo intermediate and rew sides, 8.5:1 s4 rotors so i can boost it to hell on pump gas renny e-shaft, stationaries, and rotor bearings. relatively tight bearing clearance so i can use the energy conserving 5w20 or 30 oil for better gas milage and slightly less drag on the engine.

to date, everything is operating perfectly as far as the engine is concerned. i'm boosting 1.2-1.3bar on 91 octane with a bit of methanol for safety. bb innovative large housing t66 hits 1.3 bar at 37-3800 rpm, depending on the ambient temp and altitude.

i've had ZERO hot or cold start problems, except i flooded the engine out once when i stalled it twice 2 seconds after startup. that was right when the weather got colder. i leaned out the coolant map a tad and that took care of that. engine always fires right up hot or cold with no throttle, even with my old starter with 150k+ miles on it...cranking about half speed or so.


i'm really pleased with this motor and the seals. i'll just have to wait to tear it down to inspect the rotor housings and get the word on increased wear or not.

 

so... you pretty much suck at life.

 

So I see that there has not been a post on this thread for quite sometime, I'm getting ready to rebuild a 13B REW and I'm trying to decide on seals for it. It will be for the street with a street port, single turbo setup, power FC (Tuned), 3-in exhaust, targetting around 500-550 RWHP so should I go with RA Classics, AL's "Unbreakable", or RA "Super Seals" trying to go for longevity since I have an '85 that I want to finish without tearing this one down....Thank you guys, this forum is awesome!

 

I'm running RA Black Super Seals in my recent build.

The motor has broken in very well over the last 1000 miles, vacuum has moved from ~12 inches HG to ~15 inches and compression is around 120 psi on all faces. The motor has seen over 17 psi of boost and is running well, dyno results to come soon

 

ok well that's good to hear but, I'm looking for maybe some longer term results I mean maybe some of the guys that posted on here from '06 can come back now and post some updates? I heard that the Super Seals are great but they destroy the housings quickly and that's why RA recommends the "Classics" if you're gonna be using them for the street, Goodfella, you having only put 1k miles on your engine and without a teardown wouldn't be able to tell me more about wear would you? Unless you've used them before I don't know but, you can tell me. I'm not taking your statement lightly or dismissing it, I'm just trying to figure out which to use for the specific purpose of "street use" since I have 2 cars and the other will eventually be a full blown race car. Thanks once again to everyone here!

 

Did you go with new side seals/corner seals and all springs? New housings?

Also, in your break in period, were you running Pre-mix or just straight OMP?

 

bump . keeping this alive

 

I will soon be tearing down a RA Super Seal engine with 5k on it. I will compare the effects on the housings.

 

My engine has RA Super Seals as well. I wanted to go with the ALS seals, but they were sold out at the time, and just like everyone here, needed my car running like yesterday so I went with the superseals . The engine has done absolutely great and has handled everything I have thrown at it(I attribute alot of that to David Jerome, who built it). I have since acquired a set of ALS seals and will be tearing the engine down at the end of this season most likely to check out the internals of the engine. I anticipate the engine will have somewhere between 5000-8000 miles on it, with approximately 3000-4000 of those being track miles.

WaachBack: When are you tearing your engine down? I look forward to what you find.

 

All new everything. I used a new (not reman) engine brought over from Japan.

I've been using Pre-mix since day one, approx 8 oz's for a full tank. This with a working OMP. I also broke the engine in on Royal Purple full synthetic break in oil, 10w30 weight.

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

After the break in period I switched to Idemitsu 10w30 full synthetic.

 

It's been over 3 years and my turbo/carb 17 psi daily driven TII still runs like a charm... They even held on one time about 6 months ago where the deltagate line broke and the boost gauge went all the way down, rear iron cracked right at the oil tower base but seals were intact, I even drove it for a week with the oil leak before I replaced the iron... Same seals are still running inside...

Is that long term enough? LOL...

 

Most likely tomorrow. I should be able to report back my findings this weekend.

 

^^^ sounds good.

 

Thanks Angel that's what I'm talking about.... I needed a story like that for feedback, well I guess I'll just go safe and go with the Super Seals and maybe run pre-mix to minimize wear, but thanks Angel for the re-assurance, well I guess my mind is made up....thanks guys!